Considering an L2R, or any Hybrid with a TO4E comp. housing on a 2G?: READ THIS!

[GSX4LIFE]

Anybody considering an L2R, or any Hybrid with a TO4E compressor housing on a 2G? If you are, you may or may not already know that with a stock mannifold, YOU DONT HAVE THE ROOM! Not unless your willing to crush your the big water pipe to the point that barely any water can flow. Well, this is something I was not confortable with. So I did something about it. I used a spacer plate that I hed from my previous setup. The plate and longer studs can be purchased from www.hahnracecraft.com The spacer plate between the head and manni is part # HTZ-7100. It costs $28.90. You will also need longer studs for the head.(Dont worry its a good idea to replace these when you do a turbo swap anyway) they are part # HTZ-6135, and cost $1.50ea. You will need 7 studs, so $10.50 for those. Total cost: $39.40.

With this plate any Hybrid with a TO4E comp. housing will fit perfectly! You wont have to touch the water pipe at all. Dont forget to an extra gasket from mitsu(You can reuse your old one, but you will also need one more). And No, you wont have any leaking issues. It wont leak, PERIOD! The ans will most likely have to go(I got away with only tossing the drivers side, because the L2R's wastgate actuator is on the turbine side), but this happens anyway with alot of turbos.

Here is the pic again.

 

[nowayout]

I've seem the setup on a 2G.

All I can say it thank god I don't have to worry about it.



Lue

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

Your right that's why I got the T04B housing

 

[doug]

Originally posted by GSX4LIFE
The ans will most likely have to go(I got away with only tossing the drivers side, because the L2R's wastgate actuator is on the turbine side), but this happens anyway with alot of turbos.

Are you considering getting some slimline fans to replace the stockers?

 

[doug]

Originally posted by L2RTSiAWD
Your right that's why I got the T04B housing

So what's the rationale for choosing one over the other? The T04B is slightly smaller, right? I think that's the one I want because it should spool a little faster-- is that correct? I'm still so clueless with this stuff sometimes...

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

Originally posted by doug


Are you considering getting some slimline fans to replace the stockers?

I have a SPAL slimline to replace the AC fan.

 

[cucumber]

Originally posted by GSX4LIFE
Anybody considering an L2R, or any Hybrid with a TO4E compressor housing on a 2G? If you are, you may or may not already know that with a stock mannifold, YOU DONT HAVE THE ROOM! Not unless your willing to crush your the big water pipe to the point that barely any water can flow. Well, this is something I was not confortable with. So I did something about it. I used a spacer plate that I hed from my previous setup. The plate and longer studs can be purchased from www.hahnracecraft.com The spacer plate between the head and manni is part # HTZ-7100. It costs $28.90. You will also need longer studs for the head.(Dont worry its a good idea to replace these when you do a turbo swap anyway) they are part # HTZ-6135, and cost $1.50ea. You will need 7 studs, so $10.50 for those. Total cost: $39.40.

With this plate any Hybrid with a TO4E comp. housing will fit perfectly! You wont have to touch the water pipe at all. Dont forget to an extra gasket from mitsu(You can reuse your old one, but you will also need one more). And No, you wont have any leaking issues. It wont leak, PERIOD! The ans will most likely have to go(I got away with only tossing the drivers side, because the L2R's wastgate actuator is on the turbine side), but this happens anyway with alot of turbos.

Here is the pic again.

Good post. Very helpful.

 

[swordfish]

I didnt have to dent the water pipe very much for my L3R (T04E housing) . Its not that bad.

jeff

 

[jdmawd]

I used a spacer plate that I hed from my previous setup. The plate and longer studs can be purchased from www.hahnracecraft.com The spacer plate between the head and manni is part # HTZ-7100. It costs $28.90. You will also need longer studs for the head.(Dont worry its a good idea to replace these when you do a turbo swap anyway) they are part # HTZ-6135, and cost $1.50ea. You will need 7 studs, so $10.50 for those. Total cost: $39.40.

i did the same thing, i wrote a review on it some time age. beating the water pipe like a Neanderthal is just plan dumb. even with the .500mm plate its *just* cleared the lower water neck. 2g guys dont have that

 

[BatmanGSX]

Originally posted by GSX4LIFE
It wont leak, PERIOD!

How can you make a statement like that? Stock gaskets sometimes leak, SS gaskets sometime leak. It just happens sometimes. Except in your case you have two gaskets that can possibly leak.

 

[lambertvr4]

And that has WHAT to do w/ the main topic?

Do you feel the need to bag on every post see or what? Of course it could leak. So what. Has nothing to do w/ the main topic which has proceeded w/ no regard to that comment. Let the discussion go on and don't try to wreck an informative thread by nitpicking. THINK b4 you post BS like this please.

 

[BatmanGSX]

Originally posted by lambertvr4
And that has WHAT to do w/ the main topic?

Do you feel the need to bag on every post see or what? Of course it could leak. So what. Has nothing to do w/ the main topic which has proceeded w/ no regard to that comment. Let the discussion go on and don't try to wreck an informative thread by nitpicking. THINK b4 you post BS like this please.

This has a lot to do with the main topic: using a manifold-to-turbo spacer. I do not think usings spacers is a good idea. Denting the water pipe, as Swordfish has done, will not affect the capacity of the cooling system. The water pipe is already huge inside compared to the portions of the water neck, so denting it, even a half inch dent, will have no effects on the system.

Using a manifold spacer is not the best idea. If you have to for whatever reason, it works, like fixing a cracked valve cover with JB Weld. It works. But it's not the right way.

I'm not bagging on the post, I'm saying it's wrong.

What does your post have to do with the main topic? Oh yeah, abselutely nothing. YOU are bagging on ME for some reason. Take your bleeding heart somewhere else, pansy. THINK before (what the fu@k does b4 mean?) you post BS like this please.

 

[jdmawd]

the manifold spacer is the best possible solution. no possibility, of cracking the welds at the lower water neck. it amazing some think, its a better idea to beat and bang on a water pipe. then spend a couple bucks on a part, to make things easy. my to4e housing has nipples that stick out where the molds for the housing bolts are threaded. no amount of stupid beating will clear that *PERIOD*. you could either replace the water pipe with hose, or get a spacer plate. Its that simple

 

[lambertvr4]

whatever you've gotta tell yourself to feel important bro.

Your original post said nothing about a better solution nor did it even compare the forementioned approaches to the problem. It was a waste of time to read. I think you're little "Wiseman" title scares most members off from telling you how ignorant that post (and others) are. I am not trying to pick a fight here or make you out to be a jerk, but I'm not going to stand by and let you trash a thread.

Back on topic:
I agree that a spacer flange may not be the best way to fix the problem at hand. The flange HRC sells is mild steel which is not known for it's durability under high temp conditions. This COULD be a problem later. Automotosports does have a SS flange that may be better. It does cost more than the HRC flange.

I don't agree w/ bashing in the water pipe either. A smaller pipe will have less flow than a larger pipe. The 4G63's are not known for overheating problems luckily. Removing a cooling fan and crushing the water pipe could create problems tho. Especially under extreme conditions like a long autoX course on a hot day. Or a hard run in the upper gears. Or even on a dyno.

The best fix would be to replace the hard water pipe. Whether it be w/ an AN line or another pipe. I've heard that NA DSM pipes would work, but hopefully someone else can varify that one.

 

[GrocMax]

Angle mill the manifold ? Problem solved.

 

[supereclipse]

So what kind of piping should i get to replace the hard pipe so that i dont have to beat it to death?
Has anyone actually done this before?

 

[jdmawd]

this is how mine fit with the spacer plate installed. now oh *wise* ones do tell me how beating the water pipe is going to clear the lower water neck

 

[Z1500]

JDM,
My GT turbos sit about 1" to the drivers side of that lower water neck. The BB CHRA is about 1" shorter.

This whole thread is pretty far off base and a lot of things said by people who have never done it. The T04E housing fits pretty easy with a little dent in the water pipe. If you don't use the spacer plate you can fit an L2R in a 2g w/ internal waste gate and not have to loose any fans, just dent the water pipe.

Kevin
www.agpturbo.com

 

[jdmawd]

Originally posted by Z1500
JDM,
My GT turbos sit about 1" to the drivers side of that lower water neck. The BB CHRA is about 1" shorter.

This whole thread is pretty far off base and a lot of things said by people who have never done it. The T04E housing fits pretty easy with a little dent in the water pipe. If you don't use the spacer plate you can fit an L2R in a 2g w/ internal waste gate and not have to loose any fans, just dent the water pipe.

Kevin
www.agpturbo.com

I don't know if my to4e housing is different, or as you stated *youre* center section is shorter. Which allows for clearance as I tried to show in the pic *my* issue was the lower water neck not the actual water pipe.

 

[Z1500]

OK JDM, here's a solution for *you*.
Pull the spacer plate out, rotate the compressor housing 5^ CCW. That's what I've always done. You've got to understand, I've installed a lot of different turbos and never used a spacer plate.

Kevin
www.agpturbo.com

 

[jdmawd]

Originally posted by Z1500
OK JDM, here's a solution for *you*.
Pull the spacer plate out, rotate the compressor housing 5^ CCW. That's what I've always done. You've got to understand, I've installed a lot of different turbos and never used a spacer plate.

Kevin
www.agpturbo.com

we actually tried a couple different things, rotating the comp housing was the first.

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[Z1500]

So that didn't work? Why not?

Kevin

 

[jdmawd]

it was very close, the problem with that was it put the outlet at such an angle that the rad and slim fan tray (which is all one piece) would not all fit. keep in mind the ac condenser is still in the car. if i had more experience at that time im sure i could have made it fit. i had only owned a dsm for a month and had less of a clue than i have now. all and all i think i did a pretty good job.

 

[swordfish]

Like Kevin said, its a small dent.

As far as overheating. I have a front mount, 1 fan and run the AC with no overheating problems.

jeff

 

[BatmanGSX]

Originally posted by lambertvr4
I am not trying to pick a fight here or make you out to be a jerk, but I'm not going to stand by and let you trash a thread.

whatever you've gotta tell yourself to feel important bro.