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help me pick my motor, head and trans

witch setup

  • 1st setup

    Votes: 1 11.1%
  • 2nd setup

    Votes: 8 88.9%

  • Total voters
    9

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eclipsegsx9797

15+ Year Contributor
904
2
Nov 9, 2003
Romeoville/Chicago, Illinois
well ive been thinking lately and i think its time for a new motor sense im at 124k miles on my 7 bolt. ive come down to 2 ideas witch both are completly diffrent from each other LOL. if anyone wants to help me make my choice and maybe even put there word in on what you think i should do feel free to do so. check my profile for a complete mod list. im only shooting for low 11's, i mite be changing my turbo to a gt35r depending on how good the gt3255 performs.

1ST SETUP

6 bolt 1gbig rods/ 2g pistons, arp rod and head studs, mls hg, with a stage 2 head from bj witch is stated below. along with a shep rebuild( not the full race tranny)

(The Stage 2 is where you want to start if you have any goals of adding performance. We vat the head to remove all the carbon and crud for the rebuild. Then we inspect the head for cracks and other imperfections. Next we check the guides and perform our radius valve job. Then we check the head to make sure it’s perfectly flat and then surface as need to make sure that it’s true. Finally, your head is reassembled with new seals, new 1mm over stainless steel valves, and our exclusive Groden titanium retainers, a Crower spring kit. With this Spring Kit, you get about 65lbs of spring pressure, which is safe to 8500 rpm)

2ND SETUP

6 bolt ross pistons / eagle rods, arp rod and head studs, mls hg, with stage 3 head from bj witch is stated below. along with sheps full race tranny.

(The Stage really to starts to make the big power. We vat the head to remove all the carbon and crud for the rebuild. Then we inspect the head for cracks and other imperfections. Next we check the guides and perform our radius valve job. Then we check the head to make sure it’s perfectly flat and then surface as need to make sure that it’s true. Next we put our street port on the head to increase airflow. The street port is good for an additional 25-30 cfm of airflow. Finally, your head is reassembled with new seals, new 1mm over stainless steel valves, our exclusive Groden titanium retainers, a Crower spring kit. With this Spring Kit, you get about 65lbs of spring pressure, which is safe to 8500 rpm. )


thanks for all your help
 
Easy... 2nd choice. Why? Reliability. Just a better setup obviously, if you have the cash build it right. That would be a nice setup by the way. :thumb:
 
The choice of which one is better is obviously the second one. It's kind of hard to really compare the two evenly, one costs much more than the other and you get so much more with one than the other.
 
ya the second one is of course the better setup and well worth the money. money does play alittle roll on me getting the motor and head. i have 120k miles on my motor now and im going to use every last bit of it LOL. i could have the 1st setup in no time the second setup will take me alittle bit to get.

thing is shep uses that setup and im sure in the hell not shep LOL, my car is daily driven and just a nice street/strip car. ive seen tons of cars run low 11's on stock blocks all day. my man concern is just wasteing money that i dont need, and not haveing an over kill setup. i was also thinking of just mising the setup up alittle bit with doing the built block, stage 2 head and the shep rebuild this way i still have the block built witch is one of the main parts.

thanks for your guys ideas keep them coming.
 
what shops have a good price and good quality block, i have looked into ams and sbr.
 
eclipsegsx9797 said:
what shops have a good price and good quality block, i have looked into ams and sbr.

AMS and good price should not EVER be in the same sentence. It's a really good shop but a total rip off as far as pricing. Try SBR, or Roadraceengineering
 
haha ya many will say that about ams. but they are one of the best shops out there and im sure it will be done right, every time i go in there to get something they usally match or beat any other vendors price out there.

sbr does have some realy good prices and rre i havent seen there engines yet or realy heard anything about there blocks. i will give them a call to see.

ya i looked on ams site its like 2500 for ross/ eagle combo, where at sbr its 2200.

do you have anything to say about the 2 setups and what you would do.

thanks jim
 
by the way your mod list looks pretty good. do you have any numbers for your setup. thanks jim
 
Well I went with the Ross / Eagle Combo, mls gasket, arp studs, 1g head, and had the block bored .020 over, and decked. Head was decked as well and given a fresh valve job with new guides. The sad part is most of the stuff I actually bought from AMS. Like you said it's a really good shop that knows their stuff ... but when I went there I spent $1100 cash for the pistons, rods, gasket, bs elliminator kit ... all they would do was take off like $30!!!! Since then I went back there for little things that I needed right away, but other than that I'm really happy with roadrace engineering. They gave me discounts already ( about $200 off a $1500 total order ) .. but that was without me even asking for a discount. And their prices are awesome as well to begin with. I called them, they gave me a total over the phone and said it would be here in a week. 5 days later it was here and the reciept said "discount" and had a discount added in automatically. As far as the shop to buy from RoadRace is my #1 choice.

I basically have your setup 2 that you have listed, and it's great. I'm not afraid to turn up the boost, all the parts are new, everything fit well, and the motor can handle loads of power. I am reall happy with the 2nd setup and I recommend it to you as well. I really do recommend road race though, because they WILL give you a good price. I have saved more there and only spent like $1500 total, where as at AMS I have spent $2000+ and go like $50 off total and their prices are high as is!!! IMO if you do a motor build do it right and go with setup 2. Don't waste your time with that oem stuff ... even though it has been proven to work and hold up, forged internals are made to race and beat on. If I was on a budget, setup1 would work, but I would always think setup 2 in the back of my head ... or even a 2.4L .( my thoughts now )
 
ya i think the same as you with doing it right the first time, i was just curious as to what people would say about this. im pretty sure im giong with the 2nd setup besides the shep tranny for now. i mite just do a easy rebuild for now because thats were money will come in tight. thanks for posting and im going to give rre a call.
 
I jsut did a regular oem rebuild. Cost $900 total with labor. It's leaking though between the casing ( bad silcone job ) so I'm pissed about that .. I just pulled it out again.
 
You could try magnus, probably the best 4G63 engine builder out there. Little more costly though.
 
eclipsegsx9797 said:
haha ya thats not good, i think sheps rebuild is like 900 also

But is that just an oem rebuild? I know TRE wanted $500 for labor alone and upgraded parts cost an arm and a leg too. I'd rather just get 15k out of this trans, rebuild it again, get another 15k and so on, than spend 2k+ on a race trans that's only gonna last 20k too...
 
1fastGSX, We have stated many times before that there are always going to be places out there that will have parts cheaper then we do. Do you see the owner driving ferrari's here? We, like many shops out there barely get by. we make enough to pay the staff and keep the lights on in this very big and expensive building. I am sorry if you are feeling ripped off but we are in no way shape of form selling it for the prices that we do so we can rip you off. Did you ask to price match? I rarely turn that down when a customer asks.

Jim, stop by the shop and we will take care of you the best we can on price. I will guarantee you that there isnt a better 4G63 staff out there to take care of your car. There is a reason why people are scared of cars with AMS stickers.....we make DSM's FAST!
Eric
 
haha ya ill talk to you about it on monday when i bring my car in. haha that is so true what u just stated about the stickers LOL. thats y mine are under my hood hehe
 
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