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crank walk prevention

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ChrisHKS

20+ Year Contributor
83
0
Sep 28, 2002
sup guys, i know many of us dsmers are extremely cautious to the fact that crankwalk could happen to anyone. does anyone what to do to prevent it 100%? new bearings? crank?main studs?
 
well i looked for it in the search but didnt find, ill look harder though. but how bout a 1g crank and rods in1g block. would this fit? also at ffwdconnection, they have a process of lightening by knife edging the leading edge and trail edge of the crank. they also have a secret improvement called "connected" to long-last the crank. what do u think and does anyone have this?

http://www.ffwdconnection.com/engine.htm
 
Ok trying not to be to vague, and i know chances of crankwalk very for each year the car was made, but on a 2g eclipse or talon, exactly what are the chances of crankwalk? 1/20?? 1/100??
 
the best solution is to just go to ur dealership and get ur crank end play measured. costs about $35. Its worth it. i went and got mine checked...turned out it was out of spec. caught it in time though. didnt ruin my block. one of the first signs is that ur crank sensor will go bad. then ur car wont start.
 
CW prevention? A little luck and some routine maintenance. Some are destined to get it because of machining issues from the factory. Others get it for being lazy. Others get it faster due to a combination of the 2. Make sure your clutch is ALWAYS adjusted properly. That is half the battle. Espeicially on an aftermarket clutch.
 
would a 1g crank, 1g rods, and bearings, etc. fit in a 2g block since i plan building it soon?
 
The 6 bolt crank will not fit the 7 bolt block. I still don't think it is the crank that is the culprit as much as it is the bock. Here, let me see if I can make an analogy that will make sense here. The 1G block is a pretty poor design from a power standpoint. In a modified form, you are supposed to support all that power and all that cylinder pressure with little rinky-dink main caps. On the 7 bolt block, you are using a large main girdle that integrates all of the mains, which from a power/reliability standpoint is much better than the 6 bolt design. Companies sell aftermarket block girdles for just this reason. But the 7 bolts walk, and the 6 bolts are usually in the clear. Why? My theory is that when you try to 'improve' something, you may cut corners in other areas to help absorb the cost of the initial improvement. Look at this from Mitsubishi's standpoint. Do they want to make a car that allows the tuners like us to make huge power reliably, just so it's easier for us to go fast, -OR- do they want to make a new design as cost effective as possible so they can gross as many sales as they can? Which one do you honestly think is in their best interest? The 7 bolt blocks with the main girdle is a good idea, read: it's an improvement. But, for this 'improvement' to work effectively, everything else around it must be brought up to the same standard as well. See previous comment about cost reduction. Let me see if I can make sense of this. A T25 is a pretty crappy turbo. A T66 is a HUGE improvement over a T25. If you pull that off, and bolt on the T66, chances are you will break all sorts of parts and run like crap. In order to make that T66 (improvement) work properly, you need to also improve all the parts surrounding it (intercooler, rods/pistons, cylinder head, fuel system, engine management, etc.) Maybe when Mitsu improved the design of the motor, they didn't take the care to ensure that te rest of the motor was up to the task. When you balance and blueprint a motor, you are improving things, and perfecting things. A good blueprint job can be worth quite a bit of power, however one screw up, and all the supposedly positive work some crumbling down. This was the whole premice behind the Fix. It was improving upon Mitsu's design, and allowing it to work the way it was intended to, but that Mitsu was too cheap to finish R&D'ing. Agree with me or not, you have to admit it is a viable possibility. So far, the original motor that got the prototype 'Fix' is running great, the crank hasn't moved since it was installed, and it also revs smoother than just about any other 4G63 I have personally witnessed. You can search on this forum and see what the Fix entails if you like. Please, no PM's about this as the information is all laid out, and I already took enough crap for this.

Regards,
 
Originally posted by BoostinAWD
haha I've been told by a couple of guys from utah clubdsm who have tried and had no luck getting them to bolt up. :confused:

Guess they were wrong. :laugh:


They were idiots. The 6-bolt tranny and the 7-bolt tranny (1G and 2G) have basically the exact same bolt pattern. In fact, so does the Galant VR4. I run a Galant VR4 tranny mounted to a 6-bolt block that is in my 96 AWD.
 
NosLaser,
I've seen this and all the #@%#@%#@%#@% you got for posting this stuff. I just want to ask you if you engine is a 1G engine. This is what I know, 6 bolts are 98 percent crank walk proof, and 7-bolts years 92.5-94 are 95 percent crank walk proof. Years 95-97 are 55 percent crank walk proof. and 98-99 are 80 percent crank walk proof. Remember this is what I've seen. If I had a 1G 7-Bolt then I wouldn't be very worried about crank walk. So if you did this to your 93 it would be pointless because of the low and I do mean low cases of it. But if I were to build an engine I would rather have a 6-bolt. Because of the lower numbers and cases. I would like to see this mod performed on a 95-97 year. Also what I learn that keeps the 98-99 a little safer is the fact they have a floating thrust bearning.

Also one of my close friends talk to a engineer that work for the 4G63. He told him that the 1G engine are built okay but when they built the 2G engine they were on crack.
:rolleyes: Go figure.

Peace
 
Actually, the engine in question was for/out of a 97 GSX. The engine was not crank-walked to begin with, but was being built to handle some higher HP. We performed the 'Fix' on this motor as preventative maintenance, and it has been alive and well ever since. What constitutes proof? The answer to that queston I cannot supply because I don't have the means nor the budget which is why instead of performing the fix FOR DSM'ers and making a couple bux off it, I simply outlined the process for everyone's information. If you are building a 2G motor, and get this fix performed at your local machine shop, then please let me know. Maybe we can put enough info together to provide a decent source of feedback.

Regards,
 
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