1G TB on 2G...BISS adjustment without scan tool?

[ProjectTwin]

I swapped a 1G TB onto my 2G, the idle is around 550 or so. I'd like to adjust it up to 750 but don't have the scan tool.

Is there a way to adjust idle without the computer holding idle as I've read on VFAQ?

The VFAQ covers the 1G (using a jumper) and the 2G (using the scan tool), but what's the deal when you've done the swap?

Is there a way to make an adjustment without the scan tool?

I'm lost here...

[1fast97gsx]

why don't you just adjust it and let the car run for a while ... then look at the tach and see where it's at now. Then adjust again accordingly??

[ProjectTwin]

'cause it's at the paint shop.

I'm reading, wondering if there's a "proper" procedure to go through.

[Artago]

Bring this back from the dead because I can't find the answer.

How do you do a BISS adjustment without the Scan tool so the ECU hold the IAC (ISC) at a certain step.

Can DSMlink do it?

Thnaks,

Tom

[romeen]

Honestly, I just did it by trial and error after driving over the course of a week. This may not be the ideal or the quickest way but it worked for me. My idle is steady right around 750rpm, no surge or driveability issues.

[Artago]

Originally Posted by romeen

Honestly, I just did it by trial and error after driving over the course of a week. This may not be the ideal or the quickest way but it worked for me. My idle is steady right around 750rpm, no surge or driveability issues.

What do you mean trial and error? I have my BISS set right now and I have the following:

1. Cold idle around 700-800
2. Hot idle 800-1100
3. Car stalls when I pull it out of gear at higher RPM (like 3000+ RPM)
4. The RPMS drop (like 200-500 RPM) and stall 50% of the time when pressing clutch (worse when cold)

Should I back the BISS out a bit?
Did you disconnect the ISC (IAC) when doing this?

Thanks Romeen,

Tom

[dj_remy]

Originally Posted by Artago

What do you mean trial and error? I have my BISS set right now and I have the following:

1. Cold idle around 700-800
2. Hot idle 800-1100
3. Car stalls when I pull it out of gear at higher RPM (like 3000+ RPM)
4. The RPMS drop (like 200-500 RPM) and stall 50% of the time when pressing clutch (worse when cold)

Should I back the BISS out a bit?
Did you disconnect the ISC (IAC) when doing this?

Thanks Romeen,

Tom

Heh, this sounds horribly familiar to my issues right now, so awating an answer as well, need to adjust my BISS I know, but no scan tool, prob started after an intake install.......

I'll try the trial and error technique, but whats too high you think, 900,1000?

[Artago]

Originally Posted by dj_remy

Heh, this sounds horribly familiar to my issues right now, so awating an answer as well, need to adjust my BISS I know, but no scan tool, prob started after an intake install.......

I'll try the trial and error technique, but whats too high you think, 900,1000?

I'm already surging between 850-1100.

I'm going to install an FIAV bypass plate and test for vac/boost leaks (I'm almost positive I have some).

Tom

[romeen]

Originally Posted by Artago

What do you mean trial and error? I have my BISS set right now and I have the following:

1. Cold idle around 700-800
2. Hot idle 800-1100
3. Car stalls when I pull it out of gear at higher RPM (like 3000+ RPM)
4. The RPMS drop (like 200-500 RPM) and stall 50% of the time when pressing clutch (worse when cold)

Should I back the BISS out a bit?
Did you disconnect the ISC (IAC) when doing this?

Thanks Romeen,

Tom

I just re-read my post and realized I wasn't very clear on it. I was having issues with increased idle speed after the motor had warmed up. Turns out my throttle cable was too tight. There is a method for adjusting it to give the most possible slack when the throttle is closed. But I prefer having as little slack or free play in the cable as possible while still allowing the throttle plate to remain closed when warm. So everyday I drove the car I would pay attention to the idle speed when I was stopped at lights and when I got home I would adjust the cable as needed and then the BISS to get the idle where I wanted it. It seems like after an adjustment the idle would move around a bit but settle down and remain steady after a while. Maybe the ECU was adjusting to the new settings (speculation)?

Like I said, I'm sure the recommended way is a better, easier way of doing it. But I didn't have the scan tool and this way did end up working for me.

I'm not sure about the stalling but it might be related to the TPS. When I swapped to a 1G TB I used the RRE method to adjust it and it works great. The logger shows 0% throttle position at idle and 97% at WOT. Just something to consider.

Here is a post that I found helpful:

TPS reading at idle

[dj_remy]

I'll try that this monday to see if it helps me out at all, getting pocketlogger next weekend so that ought to help out alot, thanks.

[Artago]

I've already adjusted and re-adjusted my TPS... still nothing.

Tom

[romeen]

Are you sure that the throttle cable isn't too tight? The higher idle when the motor is warm can cause that. Check the link I gave in post #9, there is some good info there.

Have you resistance tested the ISC coils?

Do you have a logger to check throttle position (compare cold vs. warm engine) and coolant temps?

[Artago]

Originally Posted by romeen

Are you sure that the throttle cable isn't too tight? The higher idle when the motor is warm can cause that. Check the link I gave in post #9, there is some good info there.

Have you resistance tested the ISC coils?

Do you have a logger to check throttle position (compare cold vs. warm engine) and coolant temps?

The cable was tight and I loosened it (a few weeks back). It fixed 99% of the high idle. Can still idles a little higher when warm. IE: cold idle 700-800 RPM, hot idle 800-1100 RPM.

TPS cold and hot is 0-1% via pocketLogger.

Coolant temps are high but under control. 199-222 (cruise and idle depending on outside temp). I'm working to resolve this one soon.

The BIGGEST problem is the car stalling out when I push the clutch in, ESPECIALLY when the RPMs are higher. I come to a stop sign press the clutch and the car dies. The only thing I can do is press the clutch and throw it into neutral and RELEASE the clutch before the RPMs drop to the point where the car stalls. If I release the clutch quickly then it only stalls about 5% of the time (worse when cold). If I press the clutch and HOLD it while the RPMs drop then they will drop until they hit 0 and the car dies.

This is really REALLY annoying because when I'm stuck in traffic then the car dies on me every 50 feet and I have to start it back up.

Any ideas?

Tom

[romeen]

If loosening the throttle cable helped then maybe try loosening it just a bit more. It still might be a little too tight. Here is one thing to try. Next time your motor is warm and idling high, pop the hood and try to manually close the throttle plate. Just push on the throttle lever so that you are taking up any possible slack in the throttle cable. If the idle drops then the cable is still too tight.

Also, in response to your previous question, no I did not disconnect the ISC when adjusting the BISS. Have you actually used an ohmeter to test the resistance of the ISC coils? Maybe remove the ISC and clean the carbon deposits off of the tip. A little bit of brake cleaner and a toothbrush will take care of it. Maybe even clean out the TB itself.


I don't know if this helps but I found this thread of someone with a similar problem:

car dies when clutch is in maybe flywheel

It easy enough to increase your idle so it may be worth giving it a shot. Just back the BISS out a bit.

[dj_remy]

+1 on cleaning TB, again, another Monday project.

I'm having the same problem but mines an auto, so no pushing in clucth, when I come to a slow/stop my idle shoots down and stalls 15% of the time, more on hot days,

Trying the ISC coil cleaning/testing and TB cleaning/testing and BISS adjust on Monday, any tips? new gaskets for TB if removing? preffered cleaner? stuff to watch out for?

[dj_remy]

Sorry to Double post, but backed my BISS out a few turns and idle surge was fixed, plus its a bit more responsive, so thanks guys.

And didn't use a scannner tool.