Need head gasket recomendation

[TSIfreek]

I have a 1g AWD and now doing head work and need rcomendations on what brand or kind of head gasket I should run. I dont plan on boosting it past 18 psi with a EVO 16g and will be using head studs. Is a metal HG over kill for my aplication or is it good insurance to have one on. What is the correct torque on the studs with the ARP assembly lube . Thanks for your help guys

 

[UNDR PSI]

You should be good with a new stock mitsu gasket and ARP studs. I recomend you get the head decked though.

 

[stangtt]

ARP give a torque spec of 65-70 ft lbs with studs on an aluminum head. For your application I would go with the regular OEM gasket. With the studs, its been known to hold 25 psi. Should be plenty.

 

[TSIfreek]

ARP give a torque spec of 65-70 ft lbs with studs on an aluminum head. For your application I would go with the regular OEM gasket. With the studs, its been known to hold 25 psi. Should be plenty.

Thank you, My car will never see above 22 psi at the track anyway unless I win the lotto :laugh:

 

[UNDR PSI]

ARP gave me a torque spec of 85ftlbs...i wouldnt torque anything below 80ft lbs.......do a search and you will find everyone recomends between 80 and 90 lbs.

 

[1fast97gsx]

yea I torqued mine to 87 ... stock studs you only torque to like 65.

 

[tsunari]

Woah . . . holdon now. Before everyone starts throwing torque #'s around, proper lubrication needs to be addressed! If you go start torquing stuff down to 90+ ft*lbs using the ARP moly lube, you are almost guranteed to start stretching or maybe even twisting the studs.

Check the end of this thread for what you need

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117234

 

[TSIfreek]

Woah . . . holdon now. Before everyone starts throwing torque #'s around, proper lubrication needs to be addressed! If you go start torquing stuff down to 90+ ft*lbs using the ARP moly lube, you are almost guranteed to start stretching or maybe even twisting the studs.

Check the end of this thread for what you need

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117234[/QUO

Thanks for the reply! What is exactly ment by fully backing the nuts off when the final torque is met? I never heard of this. Seams to me that the new head gasket would loose its intedned crushed seal on the head and block making it less efective. Let me know your thoughts.

 

[TSIfreek]

Woah . . . holdon now. Before everyone starts throwing torque #'s around, proper lubrication needs to be addressed! If you go start torquing stuff down to 90+ ft*lbs using the ARP moly lube, you are almost guranteed to start stretching or maybe even twisting the studs.

Check the end of this thread for what you need

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117234[/QUO

Thanks for the reply! What is exactly ment by fully backing the nuts off when the final torque is met? I never heard of this. Seams to me that the new head gasket would loose its intedned crushed seal on the head and block making it less efective. Let me know your thoughts.

 

[tsunari]

Hmmm- perhaps that wasn't one of my more clear & concise posts

Basically what you are doing is torquing the head down fully, then backing the nuts all the way off, and then once again retorquing.

Better yet- take a look at this link and read under 'Using a torque wrench' for details:
http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/tech/fastener.html

Here's the gist of it though:

"The friction factor changes from one application to the next. That is, the friction is at its highest value when the fastener is first tightened. Each additional time the fastener is torqued and loosened, this value gets smaller. Eventually the friction levels out and becomes constant for all following repetitions. Therefore, new fasteners should be tightened and loosened through several cycles before applying final torque. The number of times depends on the lubricant. For all situations where ARP® lubricants are used, five cycles are required before final torquing."

 

[TSIfreek]

Hmmm- perhaps that wasn't one of my more clear & concise posts

Basically what you are doing is torquing the head down fully, then backing the nuts all the way off, and then once again retorquing.

Better yet- take a look at this link and read under 'Using a torque wrench' for details:
http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/tech/fastener.html

Here's the gist of it though:

"The friction factor changes from one application to the next. That is, the friction is at its highest value when the fastener is first tightened. Each additional time the fastener is torqued and loosened, this value gets smaller. Eventually the friction levels out and becomes constant for all following repetitions. Therefore, new fasteners should be tightened and loosened through several cycles before applying final torque. The number of times depends on the lubricant. For all situations where ARP® lubricants are used, five cycles are required before final torquing."

Understood and makes sence!! Thanks for the great posts