Help picking engine internals

[Libila]

I had another topic going about my 6-bolt buildup but the questions I was asking about choosing internals was going nowhere. The motor I want to build will be very mild due to the fact that I dont want to spend tons of money and Im going to be using my FP big t-28. So my questions are as follows-

1. Where can I find 1g "big" rods? I plan on using just the 1g rod/2g piston combo, which leads me to my next question...

2. When buying these 2g pistons, should I get a bigger bore or just leave it stock?

Now for the top end

3. The valves need to be replaced, should I get stock replacements or go with oversized?

4. For my turbo choice, would it be worth going with HKS 264's?

5. What would be wise to get for valve springs and retainers?

I think that covers my questions for now. If you guys can think of anything else I should address then let me know. I know Ill have more questions as this progresses. Thanks in advance.

 

[4g63swap]

i have a set of big rods if you want to buy them. only bad thing is you get the 1g piston also.(don't feel like taking them off)

 

[dsm1kenobe]

Originally posted by Libila
I had another topic going about my 6-bolt buildup but the questions I was asking about choosing internals was going nowhere. The motor I want to build will be very mild due to the fact that I dont want to spend tons of money and Im going to be using my FP big t-28. So my questions are as follows-

1. Where can I find 1g "big" rods? I plan on using just the 1g rod/2g piston combo, which leads me to my next question...

get on the trader or "parts for sale" page, there are good deals to be had in there.

Originally posted by Libila
2. When buying these 2g pistons, should I get a bigger bore or just leave it stock?

Depends on the condition of your block - only go as big as you have to just in case you need to bore/hone the block again. Make sure you have a reputable machinist do this.

Originally posted by Libila
Now for the top end

3. The valves need to be replaced, should I get stock replacements or go with oversized?

Stock size is plenty as a 1g stock head/valvetrain has proven to make good power. If you insist, IMO just go 1mm over on the exhaust side.

Originally posted by Libila
4. For my turbo choice, would it be worth going with HKS 264's?

It woudn't hurt to go 264/272

Originally posted by Libila
5. What would be wise to get for valve springs and retainers?

How high do you want to rev? My guess is that you won't go past 8k, so IMO, stock valve springs are good enough. If anything, get lighter, Ti-retainers for less parasitic loss from the valvetrain.

Misc: remove your balance shafts and get poly motor mounts.

 

[Lunch_Box]

It also depends on your budget. If you can afford to you might want to upgrade some of your parts incase you decide to go with a bigger turbo in the future. But if you are running low on funds then I would go with what dsm1kenobe said.

 

[Groomz]

1G rods and 2G 0.020 over pistons is a good choice to go with. Having the rods shot peened and magnafluxed would be a good precaution also. Maybe even some ceramic coating for the pistons? HKS 272 exhaust is on a national backorder. I would look at Comp Cams for a good alternative. New stock retainers and springs will be fine for under 8K rpm's. Anything higher and you'll need a sheetmetal intake manifold and race cams to flow enough air, along with a huge turbo.

-Groomz

 

[Libila]

dsm1kenobe thanks for the info, very straight forward.

I should have refraised the "where do I get 1g big rods" question. What I meant to say was "what years did they come on the car?" I have a 91 block that has pistons and rods in there already, and there is no point in buying some if I already have them. How can I check to see if they are?

Once I dissasemble my block should I take it to a machine shop to have them look at the block and see if they recommend the bore?

Where would be the best place to look for lightner valve springs and whatnot?

One question that came to mind. Is a lightened pulley set worth it? They arnt expensive and seem to make a small difference.

 

[Groomz]

Originally posted by Libila
Once I dissasemble my block should I take it to a machine shop to have them look at the block and see if they recommend the bore?

Where would be the best place to look for lightner valve springs and whatnot?

One question that came to mind. Is a lightened pulley set worth it? They arnt expensive and seem to make a small difference.

The very least the block will need is to be re-honed. I would just get it bored over and go with that. This way you garuntee that the pistons rings have a fresh surface to break-in on.

Stock springs are fine. Are you planning to spin the motor past 8K?

Stay away from lightened pulleys. All ( except for Buschur ) lightweight crank pulleys do not have harmonic dampers, which can result in accelerated bearing wear and more vibes felt inside. Alternator/water pump pulleys are fine, but keep the stock crank pulley.

-Groomz

 

[Libila]

So far this is what my parts list is looking like-

2g pistons with a .5mm over bore (or should I go 1mm?)
1g "big" rods (still need to figure out if the rods I have are the big ones)
Balance shaft eliminator kit (using stock mitsu parts)
New Mitsubishi front case with oil pump gears (just to be safe)
New stock oil and water pumps
Mitsu multilayer metal head gasket
Greddy timing belt (worth it or just go with stock?)
HKS 264 cams with stock springs
SI Stainless Steel Valve Set (the valves are totally shot on my top end)
ARP harware
Clevite 77 Bearing Sets

Is that a good start?

Should I get an external port oil filter housing? I have heard that you should upgrade something in the oil filter assembly because the 1g style is faulty. Can someone shed some light on this for me?

Would it be wise to invest in a knife edge and balanced crankshaft?

My bottom end doesnt have an oil pan. Should I get an aftermarket one that holds more or just hunt down a stocker?

 

[Lunch_Box]

I would go with a 272 exhaust cam for a little more top end.

 

[Groomz]

Originally posted by Lunch_Box
I would go with a 272 exhaust cam for a little more top end.

National backorder for 272 exhaust cam.

That list sounds great. Stick with .5mm overbore. Don't want those cylinder walls too thin. 86mm is the largest Mitsu rates the 4G63 block to be bored to.

Skip on the knife-edging. Get a stock oil pan with a crank-scraper.

www.crank-scrapers.com

The 1G oil filter housing is perfectly fine. Get a 90-91 housing so that you can run the external ( air to air ) oil cooler.

I would also look into having the bearing ceramic coated with a low-friction coating. Swain Tech does this and it seems like a good way for some cheap insurance against failure.

www.swaintech.com

-Groomz

 

[Libila]

Ill look into the external cooler.

Can someone PLEASE tell me about the "big" rods? Is there a possibility that I have them in my 91 block already? How can I tell if I do?

 

[gsxtasy]

If you have a 91 block, im sorry to inform you, that you already have 'big' rods. So you wont have to go buy any, maybe just shot peened. Good luck with the build up!

-aaron

 

[Libila]

GREAT!

So now I just need to go buy the pistons and take the block to the machine shop and have them disassemble it, clean it, and fit the rods to the new pistons. Should I do the BS eliminator myself or just let them do it? I looked over the VFAQ on it and it seems pretty complicated, but I only looked breifly. Is there anything else I should do to prep the bottom end or should it be good to go?

I have the following lined up for the bottom end-

1g "big" rods
2g pistons .5mm bore
Balance shaft eliminated

Call it good?


*EDIT*
Should I spend the extra money to get the new front case with oil pump gears? I would rather be safe than sorry but its like $250. Let me know your opinion or a way to check if mine is all good to go. Thanks in advance.

 

[RuBiCaNT5X]

Stick with the stock Mitsu Timing belt... Word of advice, when building an engine, take no shortcuts or go cheap because it will end up costing you a rebuild...