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My crank end seal story..how the h3!! ?

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so you are asking how to get the new seal in? Or you put in the rubber seal but you don't have the tiny metal ring that runs inside it in? All you do it hammer the old seal and ring out. Take the new "Rear Main Seal" and put some oil around on. Take it and set it on the bracket for it facing the same direction you got the other one off and you just hammer it down. It won'y just slide in ... you have to tap it with a hammer. There's a special tool that goes on top so you can just hit the tool and it'll push it down evenly then. I used a roll of duct tape I had laying around and just layed it flat on the new seal. The I tapped away at it with a hammer until it was seated. Should take no more than 5 minutes. When you put the casing back on the engine with the seal make sure to use liquid gasket maker ( I used RTV ) to seal everything off.....
 
wll, i got the rubber part out, and the new one in..wasnt to terribly difficult, but i popped out that metal ring.and didnt notice how it came out, so im not sure what direction it goes in. So if the hole is facing down, that would mean 3 "feet" on the ring are facing up. I didn't need to hammer the ring in, unless the feet are supposed to somehow fit in with the new seal..which i highly doubt(and i probly just lost every body their). Here is what i interpreted from your help..which thankyou btw.
 

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I really hope that you didn't take this out yourself and can't remember how it goes back together. Its simple, the hole is supposed to be at the bottom, allowing the oil to drain out. The feet are supposed to face in. Case closed.

Mike

P.S. Do you not have any type of service manual available? Not like this situation should require one, but...anyways, GOOD LUCK!!!:thumb:
 
i didnt see anything on it in chiltons. 90AWDRaleigh , so your sayin since this ring is curved, like a U the open end should face towards the clutch end..its kinda hard to explain front and back in this situation. but when i set the ring in..it goes feet first

:D
 
DO NOT oil the outside of the seal, it needs to be dry and tight inside the seal casing. (metal part you attached pic of)

However do use assembly lube on the inner side of the seal (part that touches actual crank.
 
Also the solid face of the seal faces away from the block, the slotted side faces the block (understand what I mean?)

And like he said the hole in the metal ring goes on the bottom (closest to the oilpan).

Use a small piece of wood and a hammer to slowly tap that seal into the casing going around it in a circular motion. Just a little bit at a time.
 
sorry to drift off the trail of discussion here, but exactly what assembly lube do you guys use?

ive read on this forum not to use assembly lube on a 4g63, only oil (i believe a wiseman said this). *shrugs*
 
Originally posted by dsmturboawd
sorry to drift off the trail of discussion here, but exactly what assembly lube do you guys use?

ive read on this forum not to use assembly lube on a 4g63, only oil (i believe a wiseman said this). *shrugs*

I used Clevite Cam Guard for assembling everything, nice and thick stuff so the parts dont get scored befoer the pump gets oil there on initial startup. Also primed the oil pump with the cam guard.
 
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