TURBO REBUILD PART 2
- Now you may remove the thrust plate collar and journal bearing from behind the thrust plate.
- Next, remove the large o-ring that seals the compressor cover to the center housing.
- Now you may begin the cleanup process. I use a parts washer to remove all of the oily residue from the housing and the internal parts before they are media blasted. You can also clean up the housing and the internals to the best of your ability using a wire brush and some elbow grease. Be sure to scrape all of the carbon and burnt oil residue from the turbine seal groove to assure a proper seal.
***One important step is to use a small flat screwdriver or pick to get all of the carbon out of the thin groove in the center housing where the turbine seal rides (on the hot side of the housing). I've found this to be crucial in getting the turbine shaft seal to seal properly on ALL types of turbos (see photo).***
- Here is a photo of the new turbine seal installed on the cleaned turbine shaft.
- Install the journal bearing on the shaft, be sure to use a heavy oil or some type of assembly lube to prevent damage at startup.
- Install the heat shield first, then lower the turbine shaft (with the journal bearing on the shaft) into the center housing. Gently push downward until you feel a "click"...this means that the turbine seal has been seated into the center housing. DO NOT force the turbine shaft into the housing as you can risk bending the turbine seal and damaging the turbo!
- Install a new journal bearing into the opposite side of the housing, be sure to use plenty of assembly lube.
- Install a new thrust collar on the shaft, use plenty of lube here as well.
- Install the new thrust plate, then fit the new oil shield o-ring into the housing.
- Push the compressor seal collar through the thin oil deflector BEFORE installing the compressor seal, then install the compressor seal on the compressor seal collar.
- Gently push the compressor seal collar through the oil shield, being careful not to bend the compressor seal.
- Lower the oil shield onto the turbine shaft. I normally apply some assembly lube to the outer rim of the oil shield to allow it to easily slide over the o-ring....without the assembly lube, it can seem as if the oil shield will never slide past the o-ring.
- Push the oil shield into place until it seats firmly.
- Install the snap ring with the beveled side facing up.
- Install the compressor wheel onto the shaft, be sure to put a few drops of red Loctite on the threads before installing the compressor nut.
***My general rule of thumb for tightening torque on all turbos that I rebuild is 100 inch/lbs. With the Loctite in place, I've never had a nut come loose on any turbo when tightening to this torque. If you do not have access to a torque wrench that reads in inch/lbs, this works out to be about 1/4 turn tight
after the nut has seated enough against the compressor wheel by tightening it with your fingers so the wheel cannot turn easily on the shaft. Do NOT over-tighten the nut or you risk bending / distorting the turbine shaft.***
- Install the new compressor cover o-ring into the groove.
- Lower the center housing into the compressor cover keeping the center housing as straight as possible to prevent the compressor wheel from hitting the housing. Be sure the clock pin aligns with the cut in the housing, and gently force the center housing downward into the compressor cover until it seats all the way around.
- Install the compressor cover snap ring with the beveled side facing up.
- The center housing is now fully assembled!
- Pay close attention to the locating pin prior to installing the CHRA into the turbine housing. The pin MUST fit into the hole for proper alignment of the oil supply, drain, and the coolant lines.
- Reinstall the v-band, and the wastegate actuator.
Your turbo rebuild is complete. Now go out and boost!
