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Old 04-14-2009, 06:43 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #1 (permalink)
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1g AWD Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

Okay there wasn't much info on this so I thought I would do a write up. Step one remove the trailing arms, this is the worst part of the project.
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Old 04-14-2009, 06:44 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #2 (permalink)
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Remove the nut and washer holding on the campanion flange, 27mm is the size to use.
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Old 04-14-2009, 06:46 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #3 (permalink)
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Next, take off the campanion flange, I have done a 3 to 4 bolt swap so mine pulled off with my hand, but I have had to use a 3 jaw puller in the past to remove these.
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Old 04-14-2009, 06:48 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #4 (permalink)
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Next, I used a dead blow to knock the hub out of the trailing arm, it wasn't hard.
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Old 04-14-2009, 06:50 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #5 (permalink)
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Here is the hub and t arm separated.
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Old 04-14-2009, 06:53 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #6 (permalink)
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Here is the oil seal that needs to removed and WILL have to be replaced, a good old seal puller made quick of it.

Keep in mind that the oil seals are very old and mine actually had rusted and separated from each other, they were trashed, in fact the rubber stuff was still stuck in the axle cup leaving nothing but a metal ring in the t arm itself.
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Old 04-14-2009, 06:57 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #7 (permalink)
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Next I used a proper sized socket and extension with a hammer and drove out the INNER bearing. watch out for what size socket you pick, the hole in the t arm tapers so you might think it has bottomed out but you are just banging on the t-arm.
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Last edited by Highbooost; 04-15-2009 at 12:04 PM.
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Old 04-14-2009, 07:01 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #8 (permalink)
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Next I used a three jaw to remove the OUTER bearing. At the same time you are going to remove the dust cover as well, you can see in the pic how I am underneath both. Done properly you can reuse the dust cover. At this point I am not going to lie, this was difficult and would be better if you have a press, I didn't but with a little muscle it got removed.
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Last edited by Highbooost; 04-15-2009 at 12:04 PM.
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Old 04-14-2009, 07:03 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #9 (permalink)
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Here they are removed.
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Old 04-14-2009, 07:07 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #10 (permalink)
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Clean the hub part real good as to remove any dirt or grim and go ahead and tap back on the dust cover that just got removed. I used a pipe to evenly knock it on then went back around the piece with a plastic hammer to flatten out any high spots, a nice pair of wide pliers will also help in reshaping the metal true.
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Last edited by Highbooost; 04-15-2009 at 12:00 PM.
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Old 04-14-2009, 07:11 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #11 (permalink)
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From: Dayton, Ohio
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Next I called mitsu and ordered these parts. Each different part was about $20.
MB569972 outer bearing
MB393807 oil seal
MB290175 inner bearing

Installation is reverse of removal, you will need a press to put these back together I will probably just have my buddy at the mistu dealer do it when I go to pick the parts up. Make sure you clean any rust, grease, sand, rocks, etc that may enter the t arm chamber. Good luck.

Later Dr Turbo
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