Click
here for an overview of the Energy Suspension Hyperflex Kit.
*** WARNING *** - This mod requires temporary removal of the complete rear axle of your fwd dsm. Please use caution while working and follow any guidelines listed in your Hayne's/Chilton's manual.
First off, there is a reason that not many people post about installing rear control arm bushings for a fwd dsm: it is a major pain in the butt! But if you are a hardcore suspension guy or if you're like me and don't mind doing your own work as long as the parts are reasonably priced, then continue reading.
Performing this mod makes the most sense if you are replacing other parts of the rear suspension and/or brakes. In my case, I had no need to replace anything else, but it gave me a chance to inspect my current setup. This is not an exact step by step article, but will assist in the more difficult parts of the install.
Tools Needed:
Hayne's manual
Basic ratchet set
3-Jaw Puller (optional)
Butane torch
Long screwdriver
Floor Jack
Dremel
Hammer
Here are the new Energy Suspension Rear Control Arm Bushings out of the box. They are about the size of hockey pucks.
Here is what's left of the stock bushings and inner shells on the rear control arm after removal.
Part 1:
Follow the instructions in your Hayne's manual for removal of the Rear Axle Assembly and completely remove it from the vehicle. This includes disconnecting the emergency brake line and other brake components.
Part 2:
Using a 3 jaw puller (or another tool) push the stock inner metal sleeve out of the stock bushing. The sleeve does not just slide out it will literally rip part of the bushing out on it's way out, as can be seen in the picture above. From here, the inner metal shell (still on the axle) that the remainder of the stock bushing is sitting inside of needs to come out. You can attempt to remove it with out any further bushing removal by skipping to part 4, but I chose to fully remove the bushing material first.
Part 3:
*** WARNING *** for this part please use extreme caution. Work away from the vehicle in an open, well ventilated, non-flammable area. I chose to work in my backyard in a section that is all rocks. Set the axle so that both bushings are straight up in the air. Now, use the butane torch to melt out the remaining rubber bushings from the axle. This will take some time, but once the rubber gets hot enough it should continue to burn until it becomes brittle. Use a screwdriver to knock out the brittle pieces of rubber and continue burning until the rubber is mostly gone. When the axle cools down remove the rest of the rubber with a dremel (stone or sander). Once you are done with this step you should have an axle that looks similar to the picture below.
Part 4:
I attempted to push the new bushings in the axle while the inner metal shell was still intact. I came to the conclusion that they would NOT fit without removing the inner shell. I called Energy Suspension and even though their general instructions say to leave the shell in, I was instructed to remove it by the representative on the phone. Here is the inner and outer shell close up.
The inner shell can be hammered out, but it needs to be cut first. Use a dremel and a fiberglass cutting disc to cut a diagonal line in the inner shell. Be careful not to cut too deep or you will cut through the outer shell as well. To ease the removal of the inner shell, the rear hub and brake dust guard should be removed. Then the axle needs to stand on its end so that the bushing hole is close to being flat on the ground. I just leaned the whole axle against the wall of my garage. At this point, wedge a screwdriver in between the inner shell and the outer shell. Proceed to hammer and peel the inner shell out of the outer shell as seen below.
Part 5:
From here I used the dremel again to smooth out the inside of the outer shell (optional). Use the prelube provided and lube up the bushings and any metal surface that the bushing will touch. Here are the bushings ready to be installed.
With the axle still standing on its end, push the bushings in by hand. It will still be a tight fit, so you may need to use a hammer to get it fully inserted. Last, install the inner metal sleeve provided with the bushing. Here is the finished product with both rear control arm (rear axle) bushings installed.
Part 6:
Installation is reverse of removal. I used my floor jack to roll the axle underneath the car again and then I jacked it up to position it for the installation. Here is the axle installed back on the car.
That's it for the installation. Contact me with any questions.
