DME 1G AWD Rear Camber Kit Install

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This will show you how to install the Dynamic Motorsports Engineering (DME) rear camber kit for 1g AWD's. This involves removing the upper rear control arm and replacing the bushing with this piece.

The DME camber kit can be found here.

http://www.dmotorsporte.com/prod01.htm

First jack up the rear of the car and support it with jack stands. Safety first!!

Here is the DME kit. It consists of new polyurethane bushing and the offset eccentric pieces.

Now remove the factory camber adjustment bolt using a 21mm impact or so. Loosen the nut first and hit with a hammer to make sure the bolt will come out easily. If so proceed to removing the bolt. If it will not come out easily or it is bound up try using some penetrating fluid and prying with a crowbar and a little elbow grease. Mine came out very easily. Proceed to drop the arm down from its mount. Also remove the rear upper ball joint nut, 19mm. This also came off easily for me with an impact.

Now you must pop off the ball joint. Use a ball joint press or a pickle fork. Its better to use the ball joint press but all I had is the pickle fork. Be careful if using the pickle fork because if you don't do it right you can screw up the ball joint causing premature failure. DO NOT hit the stud and threads of the ball joint trying to remove it, you will just mess it up and it will need replaced. Once disconnected remove the control arm.

Now that the control arm is out you need to remove the stock bushing. The easiest way is to just burn it out. All you want to do is remove the rubber bushing but leaving the metal pressed in sleeve. Try heating around the busing on the metal all around it, it will eventually just fall out by itself!.

Once the bushing is out clean out the inside sleeve with a wire brush or sandpaper, make sure its smooth and free of debris for the new bushings.

Due to loose factory tolerances the replacement bushings are made a little big. You want the new bushings to slide into the sleeve with FIRM hand pressure. Mine were way too tight and needed trimming. I found the easiest way to trim up the outside was to run it by my grinding wheel and keep checking it for fitment every few turns. Eventually it will turn down to proper size and go in like it should. Do this to both halfs of the bushing and install them.


Once the bushings are installed you are also now going to need to do a little grinding of the inside of the bushings. Again, you want the eccentrics to go in with FIRM hand pressure. Too tight or too loose and it could cause binding or it could turn the eccentric the wrong way after driving. I did this with a grinding bit on a air powered die grinder.

Now proceed to install the eccentric into the bushings like shown. This will give you factory camber adjustability when lowered 2" or more.

Now proceed to reinstall the control arm the reverse of removal. Make sure to add a little anti seize on the bolts. Torque the camber adjustment bolt to 110 ft. lbs. Torque the ball joint to 50 ft. lbs.

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Camber adjustment bolt torque 101-116 ft. lbs.

Ball Joint nut torque 43-52 ft. lbs.


Thats it. Double check everything making sure you didn't forget anything. Enjoy your new camber adjustment.


***If the vehicle is used for racing, you may adjust the camber easily now by using the factory camber adjustment bolts to suit your racing needs. If the vehicle is street driven, a vehicle alignment is a must to ensure proper suspension operation and tire wear, etc.

Any questions feel free to PM me.

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Another thing when setting these up make sure you rotate the adjustment bolts so the cam profiles are down, this will best results when setting your camber by eye.

This is what it looks like done. My rear is lowered just over 2".





PS. Don't mind the front wheel gap, the suspensions not done yet up front.

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Here is the car fully done with the suspension.