Do you ever get tired of the way our PCV valve comes straight out of the valve cover and runs head-first into the TPS? Wish there was an easy way to "bend" it, but still keep the factory snorkel and functionality? Well...here's how.
Parts needed:
1 - old useless PCV valve, with the snorkel still in good shape.
1 - new OEM PCV valve
1 -
1/8" NPT Gardner-Westcott street elbow, Summit Racing part number GAR-J9021
Note: Other elbows may work, but this one provides a perfect press fit for the stock PCV snorkel tube, and it has a flat face which comes in handy as you'll soon see. Besides...it's chrome!
Tools needed:
File
Razor blade or awl
JB Weld or similar
Hacksaw or die grinder
Hammer
Small screw (about an M6) or punch
A bench vise is helpful
1/8" NPT tap (possibly)
The first thing we need to do is sacrifice the old PCV in order to get the snorkel tube from it. To do this, cut the PCV valve in half, just behind the threads (or at the threads if you don't care if the snorkel is a bit shorter when done). I stuck mine in a vice and used a die grinder to cut it even with the base of the threads. Once it is cut in half, take the piece with the snorkel still in it, and use a punch or M6 screw and a hammer to knock out the snorkel tube. Be careful not to damage it if possible. (You can discard the remaining pieces).
Note: If you drill out the remaining large valve piece and tap it, it makes a nice female pipe nipple ;)
Once the snorkel is free, smooth any rough edges from the cut with the file, and then lightly scuff up the outside of one end so the glue will have something to bite into. (You may also need to deburr the inside around the cut). Next, CAREFULLY use the tip of the razor blade or awl to scar the inside of the male end of the elbow.
Mix up a little JB Weld, and spread it around the outside of one end of the snorkel tube, about 1/8" away from the opening (we don't want to get any JB Weld inside the snorkel). Place the glued end of the snorkel tube into the male end of the elbow; it should be a nice tight fit, and only go down until about 1/8" before the threads on the inside of the elbow.
Set the elbow on it's face with the snorkel pointing upwards, and using a hammer LIGHTLY tap the snorkel tube into the elbow until just before the threads. It is important to not block the female threads with the snorkel tube, because the stock PCV will screw almost all the way in. Wipe up any excess glue, and your new PCV elbow is finished!
The last thing to do is to modify the new PCV to fit the elbow. We are doing basically the same thing as we did to the old one, but we are keeping the threads this time. Using the hacksaw or die grinder, cut the snorkel off even with the end of the threads and deburr as necessary. (Actually, you may want to cut a few of the threads off as well to ensure that there is plenty of room for air to flow, since it is going to screw almost all the way into the elbow.)
You should be able to just screw the new elbow/snorkel into the VC, but if it won't start, you'll need to carefully tap the VC for 1/8" NPT. It doesn't take much, as the PCV threads are really close to this size anyway. Back the tap out every 1/2 turn or so, and be sure to not get shavings inside the VC. (I prefer to work "upside down", and have a shop vac nozzle sitting next to the tap).
Before anyone says anything about that ^^^ Yes; I know the TPS is backwards and that the CAS wire is hideous. The TPS is an experiment, and my CAS wiring hasn't been rebuilt yet in that photo. :)
When screwing in the elbow, use a good thread sealer and be careful to not thread it in too far. You want enough of it sticking out so that the PCV and it's hose will still fit. With mine tightened down a couple of turns, I have a little less than 1/16" between my hose clamp and the VC...not much, but it's enough. Use sealer on the PCV to elbow joint as well; the PCV valve will probably screw almost all the way in to the elbow.
Now you should be able to point your PCV just about anywhere you want...instead of only at the TPS. :)
