I'll keep this clean and simple and edit with pics and more info later.
The basics of how to remove an exhaust system and install a new catback or other components have been discussed add nauseum else where.
I recently installed a Bosal 3" cat back on a 2G AWD and thus far
$290 or so plus UPS from www.seffects.com but it shipped direct from bosal.
We are waiting for an upgraded turbo and SS downpipe...
Damn vendors holiday hours.
Therefore I have no comments on the tone at the moment. It should be by the end of the week. The orders were taken but we wont see the tracking #'s untill the boys where we ordered the stuff from come in on monday AM. I suspect nothing radically different than the same as any other 3" catback w/o resonators and a straight thru perf tube muffler.
When the rest of the goodies get here I'll shoot the installed pics. Right now its like monster garage in the shop. We are waiting for the brown truck that all the goodies come off of.
The finish was nice. We opened it in the shop and the non gear heads were even going wow only $290. Do they make duals for a F150. ?
Description
It's polished stainless had a high luster and I mean everything from the tips to the cat flange. The hangers were nice and sturdy. Having spent some time with a welder myself I looked the welds over... Good job guys. Every rubber hanger the OE system uses is utilized by this system. In fact the same attatchment method is used including the same size bolts. If your old bolts are corroded and or snap on the way out get new ones that are the same dimensions because they welded the same size nuts to the brackets.
The muffler is a perforated tube core with the core running diagonally thru the body. You get the benefits of ground clearance and low restriction. The bend does'nt need to be as severe as systems with a one size fits all muffler since it has a diagonal thru path as opposed to perpendicular one. Simply put it fits nice and snug under the ride. It fits as tight or tighter to the bottom of the car as any 3" system I have seen.
1. I chose to bolt the two sections of pipe together off the car. Just make sure you align the gasket and the two pipes. The flanges should meet at all sides and the gasket evenly spaced. Then crank it down.
2. Take the OE rubber straps off the hanger rod... the ones that hang the inlet end of the muffler. Or unbolt the entire bracket from the frame. To R&R that bracket is the easiest way provided those bolts cooperate w/o breakage. Those bolts are easier to get to than trying to run the others thru the rubber when the muff is tucked under the car.
3. Bolt the those two rubber mounts to the muffler. The one by the tips is easy later.
Note on all the OEM rubber hangers I used ss fender washers on each side of the rubber and replaced tube that the OE bolt went thru with a roll pin due to corrosion.
4. Support the muffler with a long pole jack (If on lift) or just lay it on a extra creeper if using stands. That way you wont scuff that baby.
5. Hang the front two mounts first by the cat flange.
6. Raise the muffler and slip the rubbers back on the hangers. Lubing the tips of the hanger rods with a touch of grease helps. If you unbolted the bracket from the frame just bolt it back.
7. Bolt the middle hanger with a bolt just long enough to reach thru the nut a bit when tight. If you go too long and you will contact the pipe on the backside flexing the mount bracket.
8. Bolt the remaining hanger by the tips in place.
9. Install the gasket and bolts to the cat flange.
Options.
Cut the step down off the front of the pipe if you have a 3" cat or test pipe.
If you have not bought a cat or test pipe yet get slip fit non flanged items. In the case of a test pipe just buy some straight up or polished 3" ss tubing. Use ss band clamps after cuting it to length. That is stuff for DP, Cat and test pipe reviews. For a cat get a universal fit 3" high flow.
I'm planning on cutting the taper off both the ss downpipe and catback using a chain type tubing cutter while installed and bolted in place (DP not tight). Then I'll throw the right wire spool and sheilding gas on the old miller 250. Next measure the section cut out. Cut to match but a touch long for slip fit at the cat back and a very very slight overlap at the DP. Just enough so when I weld it to the DP off the car it will hold itself on until I do the four tack welds which secures it until I work my way around 360. Then one band clamp will be the only clamp on the entire system.
The 3.5" twin tips fit the bumper notch just right. You can cut and install a twin 3" instead if you like.
If we change anything we are considering guting a set of 3.5" resonated tips carfully enough to install the guts into the current tips.
The basics of how to remove an exhaust system and install a new catback or other components have been discussed add nauseum else where.
I recently installed a Bosal 3" cat back on a 2G AWD and thus far
$290 or so plus UPS from www.seffects.com but it shipped direct from bosal.
We are waiting for an upgraded turbo and SS downpipe...
Damn vendors holiday hours.
Therefore I have no comments on the tone at the moment. It should be by the end of the week. The orders were taken but we wont see the tracking #'s untill the boys where we ordered the stuff from come in on monday AM. I suspect nothing radically different than the same as any other 3" catback w/o resonators and a straight thru perf tube muffler.
When the rest of the goodies get here I'll shoot the installed pics. Right now its like monster garage in the shop. We are waiting for the brown truck that all the goodies come off of.
The finish was nice. We opened it in the shop and the non gear heads were even going wow only $290. Do they make duals for a F150. ?
Description
It's polished stainless had a high luster and I mean everything from the tips to the cat flange. The hangers were nice and sturdy. Having spent some time with a welder myself I looked the welds over... Good job guys. Every rubber hanger the OE system uses is utilized by this system. In fact the same attatchment method is used including the same size bolts. If your old bolts are corroded and or snap on the way out get new ones that are the same dimensions because they welded the same size nuts to the brackets.
The muffler is a perforated tube core with the core running diagonally thru the body. You get the benefits of ground clearance and low restriction. The bend does'nt need to be as severe as systems with a one size fits all muffler since it has a diagonal thru path as opposed to perpendicular one. Simply put it fits nice and snug under the ride. It fits as tight or tighter to the bottom of the car as any 3" system I have seen.
1. I chose to bolt the two sections of pipe together off the car. Just make sure you align the gasket and the two pipes. The flanges should meet at all sides and the gasket evenly spaced. Then crank it down.
2. Take the OE rubber straps off the hanger rod... the ones that hang the inlet end of the muffler. Or unbolt the entire bracket from the frame. To R&R that bracket is the easiest way provided those bolts cooperate w/o breakage. Those bolts are easier to get to than trying to run the others thru the rubber when the muff is tucked under the car.
3. Bolt the those two rubber mounts to the muffler. The one by the tips is easy later.
Note on all the OEM rubber hangers I used ss fender washers on each side of the rubber and replaced tube that the OE bolt went thru with a roll pin due to corrosion.
4. Support the muffler with a long pole jack (If on lift) or just lay it on a extra creeper if using stands. That way you wont scuff that baby.
5. Hang the front two mounts first by the cat flange.
6. Raise the muffler and slip the rubbers back on the hangers. Lubing the tips of the hanger rods with a touch of grease helps. If you unbolted the bracket from the frame just bolt it back.
7. Bolt the middle hanger with a bolt just long enough to reach thru the nut a bit when tight. If you go too long and you will contact the pipe on the backside flexing the mount bracket.
8. Bolt the remaining hanger by the tips in place.
9. Install the gasket and bolts to the cat flange.
Options.
Cut the step down off the front of the pipe if you have a 3" cat or test pipe.
If you have not bought a cat or test pipe yet get slip fit non flanged items. In the case of a test pipe just buy some straight up or polished 3" ss tubing. Use ss band clamps after cuting it to length. That is stuff for DP, Cat and test pipe reviews. For a cat get a universal fit 3" high flow.
I'm planning on cutting the taper off both the ss downpipe and catback using a chain type tubing cutter while installed and bolted in place (DP not tight). Then I'll throw the right wire spool and sheilding gas on the old miller 250. Next measure the section cut out. Cut to match but a touch long for slip fit at the cat back and a very very slight overlap at the DP. Just enough so when I weld it to the DP off the car it will hold itself on until I do the four tack welds which secures it until I work my way around 360. Then one band clamp will be the only clamp on the entire system.
The 3.5" twin tips fit the bumper notch just right. You can cut and install a twin 3" instead if you like.
If we change anything we are considering guting a set of 3.5" resonated tips carfully enough to install the guts into the current tips.
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