Here's how I made my own intake pipe after ditching the stock MAF and switching to a "blow thru" GM MAF. I chose 2.5" pipe because rumor has it 3" won't work with the 16G turbos or the 14B. There's clearance issues with the waste gate actuator. If you've got a non Mitsu turbo like a T-25/T-28 or some sort of larger turbo, go ahead and swap to 3" pipe for your intake if you wish.
List of material:
(1) 180* mandrel bend exhaust pipe. 2.5" or 3" Mild steel/aluminized steel pipe is cheapest. Stainless will be heavier and aluminum is most expensive but lightest and easiest to work with. $14.99 from JC Whitney
(1)An air filter to match your pipe size. From dirt cheap on the internet to about $70 if you buy a K&N from your local auto parts store. I had extras laying around.
(2) 3"-4" hose connections. I used bulk 2.5" coolant line from a local industrial store. Cost about $15 for a foot and you can cut it into 3 4" sections.
3/8" Nipples from Home Depot if you use either the hose from the evap or valve cover. About $1 a piece
A silicone hose connection from the intake to the turbo. Choose whatever size matches your turbo inlet. I had one, they are about $15 new but if you can get away with a straight section like 2.5"-2.5" then you can use the remaining coolant hose.
(7)Hose Clamps
Paint if you wish
List of Tools:
Something to cut your 180* pipe or just take it to an exhaust top and draw lines where you want it cut. They'll probably do it for free if they're not busy.
Something to drill the 1/2" holes in the pipe for the 3/8" nipples. I used my friends drill press. Also a 1/4" pipe tap so you can screw the nipples into the pipe. Skip these if you're not using the nipples.
A screw driver for the hose clamps
Step by Step
1. Cut the pipe at the places shown in the attached picture. It will leave you with 3 bends and two straight pieces. You won't need bend C or the straight section D.
2. Skip step 2 if you have no need to hook up either 3"8 hose. Drill 2 holes into the straight section E as shown in the picture. Use the 1/4" pipe tap to add threads to the two holes. Screw the nipples into the freshly tapped holes and seal them with whatever you choose. I used JB Weld.
3. Connect sections A, B, and E using the 2.5" coolant hose. Connect section A, side 2 to the straight section. Connect side 2 on section B to the other side of the straight section.
4. Connect the filter up to one end and the other end goes to the turbo intlet.
The fact that all the bends are connected by hose clamps and coolant hose means you can manipulate the angles and lengths enough to get a perfect fit without trimming anything. Final product in the pics(never mind my temporary MAFT wiring and location
List of material:
(1) 180* mandrel bend exhaust pipe. 2.5" or 3" Mild steel/aluminized steel pipe is cheapest. Stainless will be heavier and aluminum is most expensive but lightest and easiest to work with. $14.99 from JC Whitney
(1)An air filter to match your pipe size. From dirt cheap on the internet to about $70 if you buy a K&N from your local auto parts store. I had extras laying around.
(2) 3"-4" hose connections. I used bulk 2.5" coolant line from a local industrial store. Cost about $15 for a foot and you can cut it into 3 4" sections.
3/8" Nipples from Home Depot if you use either the hose from the evap or valve cover. About $1 a piece
A silicone hose connection from the intake to the turbo. Choose whatever size matches your turbo inlet. I had one, they are about $15 new but if you can get away with a straight section like 2.5"-2.5" then you can use the remaining coolant hose.
(7)Hose Clamps
Paint if you wish
List of Tools:
Something to cut your 180* pipe or just take it to an exhaust top and draw lines where you want it cut. They'll probably do it for free if they're not busy.
Something to drill the 1/2" holes in the pipe for the 3/8" nipples. I used my friends drill press. Also a 1/4" pipe tap so you can screw the nipples into the pipe. Skip these if you're not using the nipples.
A screw driver for the hose clamps
Step by Step
1. Cut the pipe at the places shown in the attached picture. It will leave you with 3 bends and two straight pieces. You won't need bend C or the straight section D.
2. Skip step 2 if you have no need to hook up either 3"8 hose. Drill 2 holes into the straight section E as shown in the picture. Use the 1/4" pipe tap to add threads to the two holes. Screw the nipples into the freshly tapped holes and seal them with whatever you choose. I used JB Weld.
3. Connect sections A, B, and E using the 2.5" coolant hose. Connect section A, side 2 to the straight section. Connect side 2 on section B to the other side of the straight section.
4. Connect the filter up to one end and the other end goes to the turbo intlet.
The fact that all the bends are connected by hose clamps and coolant hose means you can manipulate the angles and lengths enough to get a perfect fit without trimming anything. Final product in the pics(never mind my temporary MAFT wiring and location
