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Cyclone Intake Manifold Setup
JDM Cyclone intake setup
Before I start with this, I would like to say that this was not originally my idea. This setup is only for you to know how to properly setup a Cyclone dual runner intake manifold on a USDM car without the help of a JDM ECU. This setup was thought of by the DSMtalk member ho chi inn, so if you get a chance, thank him for an awesome setup.
To start, the Cyclone manifold as we all know has dual length intake runners. The problem that most of us run into is how to make it work without the JDM ECU and the necessary solenoids. There are several urban myths that are floating around and I will cover a few:
1.) There is the option of attaching a vacuum line straight from the intake manifold to the valve actuator. This means that the moment you hit boost ( or loose vacuum ) the valves open and the short and long length runners are in use. This is wrong. It means that you loose the benefit of the long length runners at low RPMs if boost is reached. You will want the long length runners for low boost and low RPMs.This is key to a proper functioning manifold.
2.) There is the method of using a manual boost controller or bleeder valve before the valve actuator to not allow boost pressure to reach the actuator until a certain amount of boost is reached. This still does not allow the valves to stay closed when they need to because of the lack of vacuum to keep the valves shut.
Here is the "Ho Chi Inn" method.
Parts:
You will need to use both the boost control solenoid ( BCS ) and the fuel purge solenoid ( charchoal cannister solenoid also ), the vacuum cannister ( white cylinder with several fittings, should come with JDM manifold or crate motor ), a Hobbs pressure switch ( 5psi ) and a couple feet of vacuum tubing. You will also need 2 inline tee's to tap into the vacuum tubing.
Setup:
Use 2 solenoids, the boost control or BCS ( normally closed ) and the fuel purge ( normally open ), a Hobbs/Honeywell pressure switch ( 5 psi ), and the blue white vacuum resevoir, and 2 inline tee's. The EGR solenoid circuit ( comes on above 3K rpm's ) is tapped to power the solenoids. When the Hobbs switch closes, one solenoid opens, the other closes, air/boost bleeds to the actuator, and the butterflies open.
Run an input vacuum line tee'd, supplying both solenoids. The output line of the white cannister ( the port that points straight out ), and the output line from the boost control solenoid is tee'd into the input line going from the actuator to the cannister ( port that comes out then goes 90 degree's ). Power for the solenoids is the purge circuit, which is controlled by a boost pressure switch ( Hobbs ) set to about 5psi.
What it does:
What happens is when you first start the car, the ECU holds power to the purge valve until the car warms up, then will only apply power about 3K rpm's. However, since power is now controlled by the pressure switch ( Hobbs ), full vacuum is routed from the purge solenoid, normally open, to the white cannister, which pulls the actuator, closing the butterflies. Since the boost solenoid is normally closed, and no power is going to it, there is, in essence, only one line active, full vacuum. When about 5psi of boost is reached ( and above 3K rpm's ), the Hobbs switch closes, power goes to the solenoids, the purge solenoid closes, the boost solenoid, opens, and the vacuum cannister is eliminated from the circuit, and only boost pressure goes to the actuator, opening the butterflies.
Remember that Ho Chi Inn ( DSMtalk member ) came up with this to use on his Galant VR4 and has been working for more than 2 years. You will need to have the BCS and purge solenoids, or ones that function in the same manner.
Big thanks to Ho Chi Inn on DSMtalk for explaining this and I hope it helps anyone that is having trouble with their's.
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