Repairing and Firming Engine Mounts

[GVTalon]

Repairing and Firming Engine Mounts


Soft motor mounts, they help damp vibrations from the engine so the non-performance minded driver doesn’t complain to the manufacturer about the rough feeling. Although it does smoothen the ride, it actually can harm the efficiency of power being transferred to the wheels and in turn to the ground. These effects are most noticeable in FWD cars and is explained as wheel-hop.

Over time motor mounts can weaken and become softer or even crack, thus decreasing power transfer efficiency even more. One way to cure the problem or just to improve your vehicles performance in general is to install urethane mounts or inserts. This cure however can be costly and or may not be an install anyone can perform as some mounts need to be cut out of their housing and new mounts pressed in with a bench press.

This “How-to” is a guide to firming your existing mounts or repairing a cracked mount inexpensively. How inexpensive? How’s $20 sound? (Assuming you do have some basic shop supplies) That beats the $80 plus price tag of urethane mounts!

I’m going to also assume you know how to take your engine mounts out; hint a jack, assortment of wrenches and of course keep safety in mind. I’ll be repairing and upgrading a 1G mount out of a GSX however this method can be used on just about any mount. You’ll notice I will be using a nylon cutting board to fill the gap in the mount and give it a solid feel. 3M’s Window-Weld urethane is also used as it dries firm and adds to the rigidity of the mount.


You’ll need
3M Windo-Weld Part # 051135-08609 Price $14.99
Nylon type kitchen cutting board Price $3.99
Hack saw
Ruler
Brake cleaning spray/ carb cleaner/ or other alcohol based cleaner
Paint brush and rag
Caulk gun

[GVTalon]

Step 1
Filling the gap. Through one of the openings in the rubber measure with a ruler the depth of the rubber insert (not the mount housing itself). Transfer that measurement to your nylon cutting board. Now measure width and subtract approximately ½ an inch. Now transfer that measurement to the cutting board too and cut out your rectangle; then cut the rectangle in half. Shortening the measurement and making the piece two pieces will allow them to fit in the open arc in the rubber mount.


Measure and hack the cutting board.


When you’re done cutting you should be left with 2 inserts similar to these.

[GVTalon]

Step 2
Prepping the mounts. It is absolutely necessary to clean and prep the mounts for the Windo-Weld. If the mount is dirty the urethane will not bond well.


Brush off any dirt.


Generously spray the mount with brake spray or other cleaner (take note that some cleaning sprays may harm rubber).


Wipe away any dirt and grease with a rag. See how nasty the mount is.

[GVTalon]

Step 3
Setting the inserts. Getting the two nylon inserts in the mount can be a little tricky. But first if your mount is cracked you may want to squirt some Windo-Weld in the crack before setting the inserts.


Push the insert in on a slight angle as far as you can.


Now use a hammer and wack it into place. Keep in mind you want to do it towards one side or the other. This way you have room to install your second insert.


Here is how the inserts should look when installed.

[GVTalon]

Step 4
Let the urethane begin! The fun part, put the Windo-Weld in a caulk gun and start filling the holes.


There is no real science, just fill the gap.


You can fill the whole rubber area if you like, I chose however to just fill the open area around the inserts.

Side note: To firm the mount but not make it too firm you may just fill the mount with Windo-weld and skip the insert steps.

[GVTalon]

Finished
The Weld takes a few hours to dry to the touch and at least 24 hours to fully cure. You can set-up a heat gun or hairdryer to speed up the drying time. Reinstall your mounts and enjoy the vibrations.