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Old 07-22-2012, 08:18 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #1 (permalink)
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3kgt2nv's Avatar
From: poughkeepsie, New York
Registered: Jan 2011
Tech Posts: 1,279
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Reputation: 3kgt2nv is pretty helpful and trustworthy

how to make or replace the fuel filler rubber connecting boot on a 1g awd


As these cars get older and the tendency of the fuel tanks and fuel lines/fittings and hoses to deteriorate there comes a point where replacing the tank or hoses will cause you to need to remove or replace this elbow.

On my car the tank and metal part of the filler neck were so rusted the old rubber fuel filler elbow could not be removed. After about 3 hours I simply cut it figuring no big deal. WRONG for a 1g these hoses have been unavailable from mitsu for a few years as i found out many times trying to order from different vendors and 3 separate stealerships.

On a referral from JNZ tuning (much love for honesty) they basically told me i was going to be out of luck with the part. But they had found an over the counter gates part, hose number 24716. I though jackpot so i went to a few local dealers that sold gates parts and couldn't find one. I remembered reading that CARQUEST hoses are made by gates(unverified by me) and asked they had the same hose with the same part number with their name on it

this is the hose



now as you can see from this picture the hose is a little longer than the stock piece. I had to trim it to fit. I took roughly 2 inches off one leg and maybe 1inch off the other.



i trimmed it in a few stages because it is a $30 dollar hose. still cheaper than the stock hose with a jnztuning list of $80ish

Once the hose is trimmed to the correct length it will slip on perfectly as its the exact internal dimension of the stock hose.

Remember that if your dropping this onto an old tank and filler neck do yourself a favor and clean up some of the rust. I removed my filler neck 3 Phillips screws and 1 12mm m8 bolt and unhooking the vent line and bead blasted and painted it since it was rusty. if removing it be very careful of the bottom bolt as it is rusty and will most likely snap the head off if you just try to torque it out.



last step is to make sure to clamp the hose in place properly and do not put the rear wheel well splash guard back in till you visually test for leaks.



even though my installation was using a jmf fuel cell it is a direct bolt in piece so a stock 1g awd fuel tank will have the hose in the same location and install the same.

some notes about the hose.
I asked if it was e85,race fuel,pump and diesel approved and according carquest it meets all of the specs.

it is about 1.5 times thicker than the stock piece but is just as flexible.

after a few different tries i found best way to trim it was with a large pair of shears (bigger scissors) aviation snips didnt work to well because you couldn't get them into the blades enough

unlike the stock hose this has threaded reinforcement in the hose like a intercooler pipe coupler does. it looks like a single or double ply reinforcement.
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