Installing Snow 2D Meth kit

I've noticed that there is next to no information about methanol/alcohol install tips on the board, so I took some pictures along the way to share all of the data I gathered through my research.

I purchased the following:

-Snow Performance 2D kit for DSM's
-220 PSI Pump
-Dual Nozzle Upgrade
-Extra 5' of high pressure nylon line (for rear tank mounting)

The first thing I did was send off my throttle body elbow to get welded. I opted for 2 1/8NPT bungs just in case I ever wanted to run two nozzles. I sent it to Brent at JMF because he does fantastic welding, charges great prices, and had a fast turn around time. If you have a thin walled TB elbow, DO NOT waste your time and try to tap the fitting on, it will leak. You can send your TB off like I did or weld on a bung yourself.

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Snow Performance Nozzle Mounting Bung

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I ended up using ONLY the 625 ml/min nozzle for my beginning tunes. After speaking to Jeff @ Snow Performance, I don't think I will be upgrading in the future, but who knows.

First screw on the black plastic fitting to the bottom of the tank. Use the GOOP sealant supplied. Then mount the tank however way you'd like. You want the bottom of the tank to be at least a couple of inches higher than the pump itself.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Secondly, secure your pump to the car. I used some bolt/washer/nuts to mount it to the bottom of the rear, it is only visible by:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Screw on the male fittings that are supplied in the kit. You can choose whatever fittings you like, depending on how you mount things. BE CAREFUL to not overtighten the fittings. These are not to be gorilla-handled and they are very easy to overtorque and crack the housing. You can tell how I found that out Also make sure to use the small bottle of GOOP tht is supplied. It is a liquid sealant that is resistant to methanol and is highly recommended to be used on the fittings before installing. Make sure you HAND tighten the fitting and then take a wrench to turn it another 1/2 turn. that's it.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Next, observe the cap on the pump. There are directional arrows in which the pump flows fluid. Hook the lines up as follows:

tank > pump > nozzle (on TB)

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Feed the nylon line from the pump to the fitting on the throttle body by any means you feel necessary. Some route the line under the car, some route it through the cabin. I chose to run mine under the passenger carpet side and through the firewall to reach up into the throttle body.

Now for the wiring:

*precaution* DO NOT use too much force when pushing in the knobs for the START PSI and FULL PSI on the 2D controller. I made a $125 mistake when I broke the thing clean off while trying to adjust START PSI.

here are both of my broken units during my install:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

If you should happen to break the controller during install, you can contact Snow Performance directly and buy a new unit. If you break any part of the pump, reference here for part numbers and reference here for the list of dealers in your area to buy from.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

There are four wires that are included on the harness to the 2D controller. I got a great tip from the DSMLink forums to use the ECU wiring harness when wiring the kit. Stolen from VFAQ, here is the diagram for a 2g ECU. If you have a 1G go to www.vfaq.com and find your diagram under electrical > SAFC install.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Yellow: MAF signal wire (3 on diagram)
Red: +12V switched power (opposite pin from 7)
Black: GROUND (6 on diagram)
Green: Positive wire to pump

BOOST SOURCE:

The last thing to hook on the controller is a boost source. I tee'd off of a boost source in the engine bay and routed some line through the firewall to ultimately mount my 2D controller in my glove box.

WIRING ON THE PUMP:

It's pretty basic. One black (make a good ground) and one red (goes to green wire on 2D controller harness).

Lastly, fill up the tank! Play around with the amount of methanol you need mixed within your system. I started with a bottle of HEET and the rest with 50/50 smurf piss bought at ACE hardware.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

So that's it. Here's your check list:

1. tank is mounted and fitting is not leaking
2. pump is mounted and fittings are not leaking
3. pump is wired correctly
4. nylon lines routed correctly
5. nozzle(s) are secured on throttlebody and not leaking
6. 2D controller is wired correctly
7. 2D controller has boost source

Now, go do a boost leak test. First you need to know that your system is leak free and secondly, check if the 2D system is working correctly. Remove the nylon tubing from the nozzle and wrap it lightly in a dirty rag. Then start pumping air into your system and see if the pump is activating when your start psi is hit within the system. It should come on ~5 psi. Don't forget your boost leak juice!

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

After that, button up the car and go for a test drive.