Timing belt tensioning tips (for 4g63 turbo):
Follow the VFAQ timing belt installation procedure exactly:
For 1g:
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.html
For 2g:
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-2G.html
with the following tips:
Replace the auto tensioner with new factory one if it is leaking (no after market or you will regret it). And when you compress it to put the holding pin in (eg. 1/16” allen wrench), compress it VERY, VERY, VERY slowly (like steps of: 1/2 turn of vise handle, then wait 20 seconds for it to settle, repeat) or you will damage the seals in the new one.
Important note from VFAQ (step 33 of 2g) that I want to repeat here: NOTE: THE EXHAUST CAMSHAFT SPROCKET MAY ROTATE IN THE COUNTERCLOCKWISE DIRECTION AS THE BELT IS TENSIONED. THIS SHOULD BE CONSIDERED WHEN INSTALLING THE TIMING BELT. If the camshaft sprocket timing marks don't line up after tensioning the belt with all the other timing marks lined up, loosen the belt and retension it, but try rotating the exhaust sprocket slightly clockwise (1 tooth off) first.
Sometimes measuring the distance between the tensioner arm and auto tensioner body (usually with a drill bit) is hard to see or do. Example: Can't get in there or see if drill bit is truly parallel to the tensioner top (which affects measurement) or you can’t get a 2.6 ft-lb torque wrench on the tensioner pulley special tool #MLR-MD-998767. You can replace all that complicated tensioning torque stuff (which you can rarely get right with the engine in the car anyway - no room) with the following alternative. Just adjust the tensioner pulley so that the auto tensioner holding pin (eg. 1/16” allen wrench) moves freely all the way through the auto tensioner body and pin holes (after you turn the crankshaft and wait for the belt to stretch and auto tensioner to settle). Adjust the tensioner pulley to do this and it will automatically make the distance between the tensioner arm and auto tensioner body (drill bit measurement) be about .157 in. (spec is .150 - .177 in.). I've done over a dozen dsm timing belts this way every one done correctly.
You don’t have to get the Miller tool #MLR-MD-998767 ($17.47+S&H at OTC/SPX 800-533-0492) to adjust the tensioner pulley (with 2.6 ft-lbs torque – ya right) as the DSM manual states. Instead use a 90 degree pliers in the 2 tensioner pulley holes to adjust it (you may have to cut off one of the handles to clear the compressor pulley and grind the tips a little). Or you can put an allen wrench in one of the tensioner pulley holes and use the tensioner pulley bolt with your socket as a pivot point (
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/atta...hmentid=56211). The other Miller tool #MLR-MD-998738 (the threaded rod for $8.55+S&H at OTC/SPX 800-533-0492) to compress the auto tensioner, I recommend getting if you are going to do more than one timing belt (threads match exactly - as opposed to the VFAQ battery hold down rod). Otherwise for one timing belt, you can use the VFAQ battery hold down rod idea (
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbeltNOTE1.html) instead (or even just the 90 degree pliers if you’re strong enough, have patience, and a partner). You’ll need the threaded rod to compress the auto tensioner to put the holding pin in (and remove) – otherwise you’ll have to remove the auto tensioner and compress it in a vise to put the holding pin in.
Replace the “B” belt also at this time. And if you haven’t replaced the water pump in the last 40k miles (or you suspect a problem with it), now is the time since you must remove the timing belt to do it (also get a new water pump gasket and replace the o-ring in the crossover inlet pipe by putting it on the pipe end first, coating with coolant, and then insert pipe with o-ring into water pump – do not put the o-ring into water pump first as it will not seat properly and will leak). I recommend a dealer water pump as they always out last any after market ones (worth the extra $). Replacing the tensioner and idler pulleys at this time is also a good idea if they haven't been in the last 50k or they make noise when you spin them.