AF/X UDP install on 2GNT

[GSGoinFast]

Alright, i just installed it today so its fresh on my memory. Sorry, no pics now, maybe ill get some later. now i know that there is the guide on 2gnt.com, but i thought i would write one and try to be more detailed.

first of all you are going to need an assortment of sockets, wrenches, and ratchets, cause apparently no 2 bolts on the car are the same size. you will also want to buy a bolt that is at least 5" long and has a 12mm(i think but you may want to check what yours is) regular thread. this is to use in place of the stock bolt that holds the pulley on. you will also need to rent a 3 toothed 5 ton gear puller. we used a smaller one that fit on the middle part of the pulley, cause a shop i originally took it to used one that went on the outside and you could see little chunks that broke off. It also helps to have some extra hands... my dads mechanic at work was a TON of help!

First, get your car up on a lift or jackstands. i used a lift at my dads work. now you need to remove the wheel well water shield. remove the front passanger side wheel. looking into the wheel well, on the right side of the rotor on the back of the wheel well you will see 2 bolts, one right above the other. remove these. now follow the back panel up and it should be about an inch behind the panel above it. in the gap there are 3 bolts screwing up. 2 are in the wheel well, and one is in front of the wheel well. remove these and bam, theres your stock pulley.

Pop the hood, and look at your power steering pump on the front passanger side of the engine bay. left of it will be the tensioner pulley. there is a bolt on the back of this that you must loosen, which loosens up the belt. i did this incase i couldnt get the stock pulley off(again), that way i could reuse the belts. now, there are 2 red bolts on the alternator, one on top and one on the bottom, that face the driver side. they are a pain in the ass to get to, but you have to loosed these. next loosen the bolt on the back of the alternator, this loosens the belt itself. do this untill you can take the belt off.

Now remove your coolent resevoir. this just pulls right out. set it on your header or where ever you deem fit. behind the coolent resevoir is the silver motor mount. you will see a bolt that screws towards the passanger seat. on the right of the motor mount you will see a bolt and 2 nuts. before you do anything, put a jack under your oil pan with a block of wood to distribute the weight. do not put any force on the oilpan, just a little love so that the engine wont move when the mounts are removed. now remove the center bolt and the 2 nuts next to it on the right side of the motor mount. then remove the bolt that goes directly through the motor mount and is screwed in towards the passanger seat. now remove the entire mount. lower the engine with the jack as much as you need until the smaller radius part of the stock pulley can clear the frame.

Now, remove the stock bolt from the stock pulley, and screw in the longer one you bought. hook up the gear puller, and push the screw thing against the new bolt. continue cranking on the gear puller untill the pulley comes off. mine would make a popping sound and move a bit, then again and again. it should come off with little difficulty if done right, i dont know why the shop i took it to couldnt get it off.

now that the stock pulley is off, we placed the new pulley up to the crankshaft, and with a hammer lightly tapped it on enough so the bolt you bought(mine was only 4", we used a longer bolt that was a different size to get it off, but either way it works) will reach the thread in the crank and start screwing in. once its threaded in, start cranking on it with a socket wrench, tightening and tightening. make sure it goes on strait, you dont want it to wobble. if you reach a point where the pulley isnt on all the way, but it wont tighten anymore, then it probably is on crooked and you need to redo it. the farther you get the pulley on, the harder it is to crank, and the more the crankshaft will want to move with it. in a manual, have someone sit in the driverseat, put it into 5th gear, and press the brake down HARD!! continue cranking on the bolt. once you think you have it in far enough, you can take the new bolt out and put the stock one in. continue cranking the stock bolt untill the pulley is on all the way.

now that the pulley is on, jack the motor back up to its normal position, and put the engine mount back in. put the coolent resevoir back into place. then route your belts through(hopefully you remember how they go) the system of pulleys. the thin belt that came with the pulley goes on the part of the pulley with the thin track, and that belt connects to the alternator only. now retighten all of the tension bolts that you loosened in the begining. tighten the belts till there is little to no movement in them without using considerable force.

with the belts tightened, give her a starting, just to make sure the belts and pulley are alighned right. if everything looks good, your almost done.(make sure you take it out of gear! i forgot this, and it wasnt in 5th all the way, so this loud clanking noise was being emitted. just popped it into neutral and it stopped)

not put the the wheel well back together. put the wheel back on. remove the jack from under the engine, and lower her back to the ground. your ready to give it a test drive!

It took us about 3 hours to do... with a bolt run in the middle.

im not sure about the gains from it right now cause it was raining the whole night, so i couldnt push it without spinning the wheels. but when i did get traction, i felt better acceleration.

Hope this helped any of you still confused after reading Gordon's one. if you want to add anything feel free to PM me.

Happy tuning,

-Chris