The purpose of this install guide is to install AEM's UEGO Wideband kit into a turbo 2G eclipse in place of the stock O2 sensor without using some kind of narrowband emulation like DSMlink. There are a number of ways to install the gauge on DSMtuners but there wasn't one that focused on installing it in the stock front O2 sensor standalone. I did much research on this before and the main benefit of this is:
- You don't need to weld an O2 sensor bung into your exhaust
- The front O2 sensor position is a good place to install the Wideband sensor
- You get the advantages of having a quicker reacting and more accurate O2 sensor for you ECU
- You don't need to add an O2 sensor to your car your merely replacing one.
- You get a wideband gauge/sensor to accurately and safely monitor your AFRs
- You DO NOT need some fancy software like DSMlink to emulate a 0V-1V narrowband signal for your ECU as the UEGO has the capability of doing that itself with a turn of a screw.
Some issues with running this setup have been brought to my attention:
- Having the WBo2 in the O2 housing will reduce its life
- The NB output of the UEGO to the ECU runs kind of funky because it doesn't cycle correctly.
- The UEGO should be grounded to the ECU. There have been some issues with properly grounding the UEGO. I chose to use the cigarette lighter ground if I have issues later I may change it to the O2 sensor ground instead.
*I pretty much installed the setup so I can't say first hand but there are a handful of people that either are having problems with this setup or having been running it no problem for a while. I will make update reports to this article as I drive the car more at the bottom of the post. I did lots of research on DSMtuners before I did this and like I said some are good and some are bad but there's not a whole lot of comments/posts out there to really justify if it is good or bad in my opinion until I have observed it first hand. I don't race my car I use it mainly for commuting so we'll see how it is for normal driving.
I will cover the basics of the install and wiring and how I myself installed the gauge into my 1998 Eclipse GST. How and where you wish to install the gauge is entirely up to you. I installed it where I had an Autometer AFR gauge in an autometer bezel pod setup installed before so the installation was pretty simple for me as I had places to splice it into already mapped out. I would also like to point out that when I wire stuff I always solder the wires in because its the best connection and looks the best. What I've been doing is cutting some of the jacket off the wire I'm splicing, wrap the wire around this area and solder it on. Then put electrical tape around it and put a zip tie so the tape doesn't come off. If you want to use those plastic vampire taps that's your preference looks horrible to me and you never know they might pop off...
Here is basically how your UEGO kit will come with: The box, the sensor harness, the vehicle harness, sensor itself, the gauge, the manual, and some faces and different bezel to change how looks to suite your tastes.
BEFORE you start installing this thing you will want to set the gauge to P04 mode. This mode tells the gauge to convert the wideband signal to a narrowband signal our ECUs are programmed to use. You want to do this before so you don't accidentally start your car up and the UEGO is sending 0-5V signal to your ECU which may murder your ECU.
So first take out:
Vehicle Harness (its the one with the 4 wires coming out of it)
For this step you will need:
A Jeweler's Flathead Screwdriver
Wirestrippers or a sharp knife
Alligator wires/ Test Leads
A 12V battery
Now examine this diagram and plug the harness into your gauge where it says 4pin on the diagram. It is difficult to plug in (Its kind of cheaply made in my opinion), you kind of have to maneuver it into the gauge and plug it in. Carefully plug it in taking care not to bend or break the pins.
Next strip the BLACK and RED wires on the harness long enough to clip the leads to. Then connect the RED wire to your 12V battery's +/red side and the BLACK wire to your 12V battery's -/Black side. I used my Harbor Freight portable jump starter for this step pictured below. Also I did it when I did it I plugged in the O2 sensor harness and sensor. If you do this put your sensor someplace where it won't burn you, it gets hot. If you don't have a portable 12V battery just plug it to your car battery.
Now when you plug it in it will go through a booting sequence and flash all sorts of numbers like this:
What you are concerned with is anything that has a P on it like this:
Now look at this diagram:
Then look at the back of the gauge here:
Take your screwdriver and turn the knob in the direction that P4 is in. So if your gauge now says P0 (if its never been in installed I'm assuming) you will want to rotate the knob CLOCKWISE until the display reads P04 like in the picture above. It should tell you what mode you are in as you turn the knob.
Now when you've done this disconnect the power and fire it up again to go through the bootsequence again and verify you are in P04 mode. Then your done with the gauge setup. I know its kinda dumb how they just don't put the labels onto the gauge itself, but like I said its kinda cheaply made so we have to do it this way which is so confusing, but that's why you have this guide.
You can do the rest of the steps in any order you wish pretty much but I suggest the following...
Now time take your driver's side kick panel out to gain access to the ECU and wiring.
Take you O2 sensor harness pictured here:
Now this part is probably the HARDEST part of the whole install. Because you have to fish this BIG ass wiring harness through the firewall somewhere. The worse part is that it is best (HIGHLY RECOMMENDED) that you run it from the engine bay to the inside of the car because from the inside (where its easiest) you'll have to run that big fat O2 sensor connector through the firewall.
Here is what I did. I decided to fish it through the steering boot because I have a vacuum line for my boost gauge going through there already.
I enlarged the hole a bit and then disconnected some vacuum lines in that area and moved some hoses around so I can stick my arm all the way to the steering boot from the engine bay and get the connector through the boot. It was difficult and took a while but I manage to get it. If you have big arms and hands this can be tough.
Tada and its through!
Next start running the harness to your O2 sensor. I chose to leave all the extra slack inside of the car instead of in the engine bay because the engine bay is crowded enough as it is. I went along the AC line on the timing belt side to the O2 sensor instead of going the stock O2 sensor route. Just make sure you ziptie the wire to a hose or something so the timing belt or accessory belts don't contact it.