This write-up is going to cover how to install an AEM Tru-boost EBC into a 2g.
First thing I did was hook the boost control solenoid up in the engine bay, the boost source goes on the front port of the solenoid, if you are using an internal wastegate, you hook the line from the wastegate up to the left port on the solenoid. Ziptie them on just to ensure they dont pop off.
Next thing I did was run the power wires for the solenoid through the Steering boot into the engine bay and soldered the connections and used heatshrink tubing to cover the connections. You must also run the supplied vacuum line through the steering boot into the engine bay to a boost reference for the guage to read vac/boost.
Next up I ran the wiring harnesses and vacuum line for the guage up through behind my dash and in my center console. Then connected them to the guage.
Now you must wire the guage and solenoid to a power source that will be active when the car is on. I chose the cigarette lighter. Once again I soldered and heatshrinked the connections.
Now its time to setup the controller. This is the tricky part, I went with all the base settings on the guage except I changed the Spring crack pressure to 11 and started off my solenoid duty cycle for Boost setting A at 35%. Now go make some pulls adjusting the spring crack pressure until you get the boost response you want, if you get spikes lower the crack pressure, if boost climbs too slow, raise crack pressure a bit. It takes a while to find a happy medium. Now adjust the solenoid duty upwards until you reach the desired boost, i found this fairly tricky due to the fact that you are adjusting the solenoids duty % and not the actual boost. Took me about a half hour to program the controller. This boost controller works great, I still get spike but it settles really quickly, im sure if i played with the crack pressure i could get it to stop spiking but im not that worried as it only spikes for a fraction of a second. Overall I would recommend this controller, its looks good, and works great.
First thing I did was hook the boost control solenoid up in the engine bay, the boost source goes on the front port of the solenoid, if you are using an internal wastegate, you hook the line from the wastegate up to the left port on the solenoid. Ziptie them on just to ensure they dont pop off.
Next thing I did was run the power wires for the solenoid through the Steering boot into the engine bay and soldered the connections and used heatshrink tubing to cover the connections. You must also run the supplied vacuum line through the steering boot into the engine bay to a boost reference for the guage to read vac/boost.
Next up I ran the wiring harnesses and vacuum line for the guage up through behind my dash and in my center console. Then connected them to the guage.
Now you must wire the guage and solenoid to a power source that will be active when the car is on. I chose the cigarette lighter. Once again I soldered and heatshrinked the connections.
Now its time to setup the controller. This is the tricky part, I went with all the base settings on the guage except I changed the Spring crack pressure to 11 and started off my solenoid duty cycle for Boost setting A at 35%. Now go make some pulls adjusting the spring crack pressure until you get the boost response you want, if you get spikes lower the crack pressure, if boost climbs too slow, raise crack pressure a bit. It takes a while to find a happy medium. Now adjust the solenoid duty upwards until you reach the desired boost, i found this fairly tricky due to the fact that you are adjusting the solenoids duty % and not the actual boost. Took me about a half hour to program the controller. This boost controller works great, I still get spike but it settles really quickly, im sure if i played with the crack pressure i could get it to stop spiking but im not that worried as it only spikes for a fraction of a second. Overall I would recommend this controller, its looks good, and works great.
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