How to Replace a U-Joint
But First: How to check your U-Joint
Intro
Now that you've determined that your U-joint needs replaced, you need to order a u-joint. You have several options. Check this thread I started for more info.
Drive Shaft U-Joint
I went with Precision one and ordered it from Rockauto.com and it's working fine. I already have almost 2k miles on it.
Tools:
6" C-clamp
Bench Vise (or just use the C-clamp again)
Grease (I used the stuff from Advanced Auto that's made for Chrysler/Mitsu)
Large washers - at least a 1" hole in middle
Small metal plate - 1.25" at least, 2"x2" at most
Vice Grips
C-Clip pliers
Sockets
Small Screw Driver & Hammer (optional)
*They make a device to press U-joints out. I didn't feel the need to buy this, so I just used what I had. It looks like a modified C-clamp. I figured it money better spent elsewhere. If you have that, just use it instead of the c-clamp and washers.
Removal
Step 1: Put Your New Joint in the Freezer
This will make it easier to press in.
Step 2: Get Under the Car
Easier said than done. You need to get the middle of the car high enough off the ground so that you have a little room to work. Make sure you securely block the front/rear tires depending on which end you lift. I already had the front up from doing engine work.
Your car will need to be in NEUTRAL for this, so it is very, very, very, important to block your wheels.
(I envy all of you that have a car hoist in your garage...)
Step 3: Mark the Drive Shaft
(You remembered to block your wheels, right?)
Not sure if this is necessary, but I did. I figured there could be no harm in putting it back in the way it came out.
Step 4: Get the C-Clips Out
(You wheels are still blocked, correct?)
You only need to get the 2 clips off from part of the drive shaft that you ARE NOT going to remove. This is the half of the U-joint you are going to get disconnected first.
These C-Clips can be tricky, especially if they've been rusting in for the better part of a decade or 2. I had to use a hammer and awl to break them loose first. A little PB blaster also helped. I stuck the awl in the little hole and hit it with the hammer, simple as that.
(This pictures show that side that you DON'T want to worry about now)
Step 5: Press the First Cap Out
Rotate the drive shaft so you can get the c-clamp around the joint. You need to put a small stack of washers (almost 1/2") on one side of under the non-moving part of the clamp, and the moving part of the clamp on the bearing cap. The 6" Craftsman C-clamp I used was a perfect fit. If it isn't find a socket that will fit.
Now all you have to do is tighten the clamp to press the first cap out. You'll be pressing it up into the hole in the washers. You don't have to press it all the way out, just enough that you can turn the shaft then grab a hold of it with the vice grips and pull it out. I also used the vice grips to tighten the vice. That little metal bar thats on it bends too easily.
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I used a small screw driver to help get each cap out. I didn't have enough washers and this work great for getting it the last 1/8" that I needed.
Step 6: Press the Second Cap Out
Now just do the same thing to the other cap. I put the metal plate over the side with the cap missing to keep from damaging the hole.
Step 7: Remove the Drive Shaft
Since I was working on the front drive shaft, all I now had to do was pull it out of the transfer case. Watch out, fluid may drip out. It's a good idea to check the transfer case fluid level while your under here anyway.
Step 8: Remove the Other C-Clips
Just take the other 2 c-clips out now. It's easier to do them now than earlier under the car.
Step 9: Press the other Bearing Caps Out
For this, I used a bench vise, a socket and a large split washer. (Flat washers would have been much easier to work with.) The socket needs just smaller than an 1" diameter to fit inside the hole. Then all I had to do was tighten the vice to press the bearing out. Don't press it too far. You don't want to press the one cap INTO the center of the yoke. I did and had to cut U-joint apart to get it out. Not fun... Just press it in far enough to get a hold of the other side and pull it out. Then reverse and press the final cap out.
Step 10: Clean the Drive Shaft
Remove the old center section of the U-joint from the yoke.
If you want to clean and/or paint your drive shaft, now is the time to do it.
Installation
Step 11: Grease the Bearing Caps
Take them out of the freezer and fill the caps with grease. The extra will just squirt out. Better too much now than too little later. Make sure you have all the needle bearing inside the caps and not on the shafts on the center section. A missing needle bearing will destroy the U-joint in no time.
Step 12: Press in the New Caps
Put the new center section in the yoke. Make sure you don't get any dirt on the shafts. Once it's in, you just stick a cap on each end and use the vice to press both in at once.
Use a socket to press once side in far enough that it's below the groove for the clip. Install a NEW c-clip. They're included.
Then use the socket on the other side and press it in until you can fit a c-clip in the groove. Install a NEW c-clip.
Step 13: Reinstall the Driveshaft
(Now is a good time to replace the seal on your transfer case.) Make sure the splined end of the drive shaft is clean. I like to put a little gear oil on the shaft and splines before I put the end of the drive shaft back in the transfer case.
Step 14: Install the Other Bearing Caps
Get the center of the u-joint lined up so you can put the bearing caps in the other half. If you marked the drive shaft, make sure your marks line up. Also, make sure you have no dirt on the shafts of the u-joint. Now use the C-clamp to press the both bearing caps on at the same time. When one of them is in far enough, install a NEW c-clip. Stick the metal plate over that side and press the other bearing cap the rest of the way in. Install the final c-clip.
Step 15: Check the installation
Rotate the drive shaft several time to make sure the joint does not bind. Rotate it in both directions. Also, check for play in the joint. If it's installed correctly (and is the correct size) there should be no play at all.
Step 16: Top off Transfer Case
Now's a great time to top off the transfer case fluid. You only need to fill it to the bottom of the fill hold. Also, make sure your transfer case seal is not damaged or leaking.
Step 17: Test Drive
Take your car for a test drive. Listen or any unusual noises. When you get back, you may want to check your u-joint again for any play.
I like to check my u-joints with every oil change.
That's about it. Safe tuning!
-Wes
But First: How to check your U-Joint
- Securely jack/hoist the car. Place a hand on each side side of the u-joint, not the u-joint itself, but the drive shaft or yoke it's connecting.
- Try to rotate your hands in opposite directions. If there is play in the joint, it needs replaced.
Intro
Now that you've determined that your U-joint needs replaced, you need to order a u-joint. You have several options. Check this thread I started for more info.
Drive Shaft U-Joint
I went with Precision one and ordered it from Rockauto.com and it's working fine. I already have almost 2k miles on it.
Tools:
6" C-clamp
Bench Vise (or just use the C-clamp again)
Grease (I used the stuff from Advanced Auto that's made for Chrysler/Mitsu)
Large washers - at least a 1" hole in middle
Small metal plate - 1.25" at least, 2"x2" at most
Vice Grips
C-Clip pliers
Sockets
Small Screw Driver & Hammer (optional)
*They make a device to press U-joints out. I didn't feel the need to buy this, so I just used what I had. It looks like a modified C-clamp. I figured it money better spent elsewhere. If you have that, just use it instead of the c-clamp and washers.
Removal
Step 1: Put Your New Joint in the Freezer
This will make it easier to press in.
Step 2: Get Under the Car
Easier said than done. You need to get the middle of the car high enough off the ground so that you have a little room to work. Make sure you securely block the front/rear tires depending on which end you lift. I already had the front up from doing engine work.
Your car will need to be in NEUTRAL for this, so it is very, very, very, important to block your wheels.
(I envy all of you that have a car hoist in your garage...)
Step 3: Mark the Drive Shaft
(You remembered to block your wheels, right?)
Not sure if this is necessary, but I did. I figured there could be no harm in putting it back in the way it came out.
Step 4: Get the C-Clips Out
(You wheels are still blocked, correct?)
You only need to get the 2 clips off from part of the drive shaft that you ARE NOT going to remove. This is the half of the U-joint you are going to get disconnected first.
These C-Clips can be tricky, especially if they've been rusting in for the better part of a decade or 2. I had to use a hammer and awl to break them loose first. A little PB blaster also helped. I stuck the awl in the little hole and hit it with the hammer, simple as that.
(This pictures show that side that you DON'T want to worry about now)
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Step 5: Press the First Cap Out
Rotate the drive shaft so you can get the c-clamp around the joint. You need to put a small stack of washers (almost 1/2") on one side of under the non-moving part of the clamp, and the moving part of the clamp on the bearing cap. The 6" Craftsman C-clamp I used was a perfect fit. If it isn't find a socket that will fit.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Now all you have to do is tighten the clamp to press the first cap out. You'll be pressing it up into the hole in the washers. You don't have to press it all the way out, just enough that you can turn the shaft then grab a hold of it with the vice grips and pull it out. I also used the vice grips to tighten the vice. That little metal bar thats on it bends too easily.
[
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I used a small screw driver to help get each cap out. I didn't have enough washers and this work great for getting it the last 1/8" that I needed.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Step 6: Press the Second Cap Out
Now just do the same thing to the other cap. I put the metal plate over the side with the cap missing to keep from damaging the hole.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Step 7: Remove the Drive Shaft
Since I was working on the front drive shaft, all I now had to do was pull it out of the transfer case. Watch out, fluid may drip out. It's a good idea to check the transfer case fluid level while your under here anyway.
Step 8: Remove the Other C-Clips
Just take the other 2 c-clips out now. It's easier to do them now than earlier under the car.
Step 9: Press the other Bearing Caps Out
For this, I used a bench vise, a socket and a large split washer. (Flat washers would have been much easier to work with.) The socket needs just smaller than an 1" diameter to fit inside the hole. Then all I had to do was tighten the vice to press the bearing out. Don't press it too far. You don't want to press the one cap INTO the center of the yoke. I did and had to cut U-joint apart to get it out. Not fun... Just press it in far enough to get a hold of the other side and pull it out. Then reverse and press the final cap out.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Step 10: Clean the Drive Shaft
Remove the old center section of the U-joint from the yoke.
If you want to clean and/or paint your drive shaft, now is the time to do it.
Installation
Step 11: Grease the Bearing Caps
Take them out of the freezer and fill the caps with grease. The extra will just squirt out. Better too much now than too little later. Make sure you have all the needle bearing inside the caps and not on the shafts on the center section. A missing needle bearing will destroy the U-joint in no time.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Step 12: Press in the New Caps
Put the new center section in the yoke. Make sure you don't get any dirt on the shafts. Once it's in, you just stick a cap on each end and use the vice to press both in at once.
Use a socket to press once side in far enough that it's below the groove for the clip. Install a NEW c-clip. They're included.
Then use the socket on the other side and press it in until you can fit a c-clip in the groove. Install a NEW c-clip.
Step 13: Reinstall the Driveshaft
(Now is a good time to replace the seal on your transfer case.) Make sure the splined end of the drive shaft is clean. I like to put a little gear oil on the shaft and splines before I put the end of the drive shaft back in the transfer case.
Step 14: Install the Other Bearing Caps
Get the center of the u-joint lined up so you can put the bearing caps in the other half. If you marked the drive shaft, make sure your marks line up. Also, make sure you have no dirt on the shafts of the u-joint. Now use the C-clamp to press the both bearing caps on at the same time. When one of them is in far enough, install a NEW c-clip. Stick the metal plate over that side and press the other bearing cap the rest of the way in. Install the final c-clip.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Step 15: Check the installation
Rotate the drive shaft several time to make sure the joint does not bind. Rotate it in both directions. Also, check for play in the joint. If it's installed correctly (and is the correct size) there should be no play at all.
Step 16: Top off Transfer Case
Now's a great time to top off the transfer case fluid. You only need to fill it to the bottom of the fill hold. Also, make sure your transfer case seal is not damaged or leaking.
Step 17: Test Drive
Take your car for a test drive. Listen or any unusual noises. When you get back, you may want to check your u-joint again for any play.
I like to check my u-joints with every oil change.
That's about it. Safe tuning!
-Wes
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