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Dying / Failing Clear Coat [Merged 7-8] cote clearcoat paint dead flaking peeling rot

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w1kk3d

20+ Year Contributor
178
6
May 8, 2002
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
How do you get that oem glass-like finish?
I got a new bumper, primered, painted, sanded, clear coated. but it looks like a matte finish, with a little bit of shine.
Here's the clear coat i used:
Plasti-Kote Lacquer - Clear 349
Is there some kind of special glossy clear coat i should be using?
Or does the gloss come when you polish/wax when it's all sanded smooth.
Oh yea, that clear coat is also a little rough after drying, I'm not sure I used the right stuff?

-jeff-
 
Sweet!
Should I sand the lil bit of roughness down first? or will the rubbing compound take care of that?

-jeff-
 
Nope, actually you do want to sand it. This is called color sanding. Take 2000 or 2500 to it with wetsanding. Lightly as you don't want to go all the way through the clear. If you have a thick coat of clear you shouldn't have to worry too much. Afterwards either use the 3m compound previously stated or use something like Meguiars Fine Cut Cleaner or Medium Cut Cleaner. Use this preferably with a 3m or Meguiars foam pad on a high speed buffer. That will take all of your scratches out. Then proceed to polish and wax.
 
if you got a new bumper, you shouldnt be using spray cans to paint it. you'll never get the results you want. If you want it to look like OEM, you have to buy some Dupont Chroma one, and have someone spray it with a gun, then it'll look OEM. But no matter how much sanding and buffing you do, spray paint will never look right
 
That's true, I use a spray gun for anything I paint, but I have seen some crazy rattle can jobs. I've seen jobs where they have blended with a spray can into the original paint and you couldn't even tell the difference.
 
It wasn't brand new, and for $24, I'm willing to spray it ;)
Besides, even with spray paint, it looks really damn good, even in it's non-glossy form, so I'm happy with the results thus far :)

-jeff-
 
Welp, it's done, and it's dull still
http://www.wikked.com/talon/dullpieceofshitbumper.jpg
Looks great if it's supposed to be matte finish, but uh...no.

4x paint, sand, 4x clearcoat, light 1500 sand...3m pro rubbing compound, meguiar's polish, Zymol wax.

Anyone wanna buy a non-glossy bumper? =p


-jeff-
'96 TSi AWD A/T
 
Hi guys im having problems with my front bumper . the paint on it is fine but for some reason the clear coat is flaking (peeling) off. Is there anything I can do to fix this without having to repaint it. Because the car shops here in ny are WAY to expensive. The least I found a shop that will repaint just the front bumper for is $400. and I don’t have that to spend right now. Please let me know what I can do….ty

p.s. if u guys need a picture of how it looks let me know
 
Just wetsand the clearcoat off, and spray it on yourself if you have a paintgun, or know someone that does.

Or find a bodyshop that will spray only clearcoat on it for you, instead of repainting the whole thing. You could even do all the prep yourself.
 
lasteclispe said:
Ok ill try that but how Exactly do I wet sand it?

Get some fine grit and a water hose.

This is happening to the paint all over my car (black :( )
 
Dont try the Dupli Color clear coat spray !!! Haha i sure srewed up, so i had to start from scratch. I did this for my first time a few weeks ago on my black front bumper. I just wet sanded it first with 220grit then 440 then finished with 800. Took it to the shop and painted it for 100 bucks and looked brand new. I was pleased.
 
Ok, I searched, and read what I could, but not enough to find what I need....so here's the scoop, Sorry for the length, but i need help.

I have a 91 laser turbo, paid 1750$ CAN for it (a damn good deal)...it has a dent in the passenger rear quarter panel right next the the door from a crowbar , and various dents and dings along the body, as well as the infamous 1g clear coat fade...I have around 800$ to work with. And i want to get it into selling contition around the 4k mark, so I can continue on my upcoming 2.4 AWD project Here's the other things i need to fix.

New windshield - 100$ from a junker, not sure how much it will be to get it installed.
Valve cover - 40 + 20 for gasket
New tires - found a used set for 100$ from a fellow local DSM'er, I love you guys :p
Plastic side molding strip the runs right under the rear side window...flew off on the highway, 10$
My cruise control does not work, does anyone know where I could start trouble shooting for that, I've searched but with no luck. Light turns on but no cruise.

So I'm around 300$ w/tax right there. So i have about 500$ to work with on getting my baby's body up to snuff.

Local body shop guy said he'd fix the nasty quarter panel dent by cutting and welding a new peice in for 275$ as well all do the other dings along the body and straighten out the trunk (also crowbarred), and thats primed, he said 300-325 with paint.

So I'm wondering, what can I do about that clearcoat fade....its on the roof and all over the trunk...looks pretty bad...theres a few other paint dings along the body that I could touch up. So with 500$ to work with, what do you guys think I should do? I'm very good at the hands on DIY stuff, and mechanically inclined you could say. I could attempt my first bondo job? LOL....but what I really need to know Is steps to fix this awlful clear coat shit....sand to primer, paint, then wet sand to blend to other paint?.... 275$ for the body work I need is quite the deal I've been told, and everywhere else is in excess of 450$...so I think thats the way to go.

The car has 210,000 km's on it, and no shaft play...everything else is running strong...So if i can get the body lookin good, and clean up the oil off the engine that the cracked valve cover has spilt everywhere then i think I could get in the 4k region, 2600$ for the 2.4 parts+machining, and 1000$ for an 1g GSX shell from the Washington after getting it legit in Canada, leaves me with a couple hundred for finding a used 14b to throw on there...either way I'm sure I could get things on there way with 4K. I get the money this week so I wanna get started before I blow it all on stupid shit LOL.

Thanks guys, Sorry for the length... OMG

Wayne
 
Fixed the cruise control, cracked/split vaccum line, so that's one prob gone.
 
Ok forget about the novel, someone just tell me the easiest way to get rid of the clear coat fade....You know, like when the base coat is exposed and there's the white fade all around the edges ...can I wet sand...buy some clear coat in a can and wet sand after like hell then wax to shit....I don't need show quality...just selling quality....thanks somebody LOL. :p ;)

Wayne
 
well, you cold try Wet Sanding. I mean what have you got to loose, right? I have the same problem on my 90 Laser, but it is o the Hood. Eventually I am gonna try that myself, but right now I just dont have the time.




Mike :laser:
 
ok thanks, does anyone have a good grit suggestion? 1500? 1200? I have all the time in the world so like laser said I have nothing to lose with my paint job here, so and directions to how I might be able to fix it would be great....where's all the paint guys at? LOL.


And does anyone know the deal with spray can clear coat (don't flame me ) LOL, I was just wondering if i wet sanded all of the oxidization and had just the base coat and base coat left in a patch beside it, if i could just spray some clear onto the base.


Need some help here guys. OMG :confused:

Thanks

Wayne
 
Here's a pic of the faded clear coat on the trunk, same goes for the roof.
 
I believe that what you are calling "clear coat fade" is really an oxidation between the clear and the base. Older paint dosn't have the "UV" protection as does the newer paints, what can happen is that when a vehicle is exposed to a great deal of direct sunlight the adhesion between the base and the clear breaks down, this would explain why the areas are outlined in white. If the clearcoat itself was fading I believe that the damage wouldn't be as concentrated, rather the entire car would take a milky like appearance. Also the photographs suggest that the problems are spreading, this is a characteristic of clear coat oxidation. It is like pealing a sticker off of an item, once you get an edge you can pull the entire thing off. You can try wetsanding if you want but I don't believe that you will gain anything by it. The areas inside of the white outlines are most likely areas where the basecoat is exposed to the surface. wet sanding the base coat will more than likely hurt more than help. My suggestion would be to sand or somehow remove the white outlines and then simply scuff the surface and re-clear with whatever you have access to.
 
Ok thanks man, I think I found a friend of the family to paint the hole car for the cost of paint , so I'll definately going that route. But thank you for the informative post.

:thumb: :)

Wayne
 
Just for future reference Wanye....I'd try a polishing compound on that 1st ...if that doens't work too well go to a rubbing compound. It works WONDERS and its super cheap. even I could afford it :p
 
Ok, if the paint job that i found for the cost of paint doesn't go through then i'll definately try that out, ..or i might just get bored enough to do it anyways LOL.

Thanks

Wayne
 
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