The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Fiberglass interior

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

I saw an eclipse for sale that was a show car with full fiberglass int. thought it looked sweet. But my concern is if its going to crack on a DD. my int is grey and I want to switch my dash to a black one I have and then make white and black panels for the whole rest of the int.
 
I don't think its worth it FG seems fragile, just look at the body kits that are made fg expansive til they hit curb and there trash. In ways its good for weight loss
It's up to u bro if it feels good do it. But pics to see its style.:sneaky:
 
I can tell you that on a DD it's going to be more trouble than it's worth. I've been doing custom fiberglass in cars for about 5 years and on a DD you're asking for cracking and unless there's some sort of barrier between your windshield and door jams, this thing is going to sound like a cage full of mice.
 
Didn't want to be the bearer of bad news but the plastics are designed to be flexible and well fiberglass.. not so much.
 
I just finished my own fiberglass dash a couple months ago. No problems so far, very strong and unique. Heres how I made mine.

Fabric Skeleton
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

One layer of glass for support
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Bondo to finalize the shape
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Final layers of fiberglass
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

High build primer and gauge pod cut out
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Final paint and clear coat
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Installed
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Mi"sma;153213014 said:
I just finished my own fiberglass dash a couple months ago. No problems so far, very strong and unique. Heres how I made mine.

That's some great work. I would have not done a high gloss finish though, that is just terror on a sunny day :cool: :sosad:
 
That looks sweet. Minus the gloss (sorry) I really like the cut outs for gauges. Reason I was thinking of doing it is I just ordered a new wide band and my puller pod is already full. So thinking of where to put it. That looks real good man! Very nice work!
 
Ya I'll be driving with sunglasses everyday in the summer LOL. But thanks guys.

Some people prefer to do a finish top coat of bondo before painting, I recommend not doing this because it will bake from the heat in the car and crack over time. I made my final shape with bondo (layers of glass in between) and then finished with fiberglass and about 10 coats of high build primer. So far not cracks
 
It probably somewhere around 20hrs or so, maybe a little more. I spaced it our over 6 weeks working on it here and there.

Large Container of Bondo - $30
Polyester Fiberglass - $50ish
Resin - $25-30
Fabric - $Cheap (I had extra laying around from something previous, use fleece)
Skeleton design - Coat hangers cut and shaped
Sand Paper - $10

Paint - $50ish

Overall it cost me upwards around $200 maybe a little more total. But I spaced it out so was fine, plus custom piece was worth is to me.

In regards to a carbon fiber top layer, I thought about it as well but decided not to just because the cost factor. Closest place to me is $80/yr

To do it though you will need to research carbon fiber skinning processes. I would do it this way opposed to making it all out of cf just to save yourself some money.

To do it:
-Apply a black layer gel coat to the surface and allow 4-6hrs to tack
-Use a tweel cf cloth which is very flaxible and light weight, I would suggest a friend to help lay it down (once it touches the tack gel coat you wont be able to pull it off without ruining the weeve pattern)
-Use a two part epoxy resin and press into the cloth from the middle outward to each edge. Use a hot air gun (hair dryer) to remove bubbling in the epoxy during this process. Let it tack up a bit (2hrs)
-Trim the excess now so that it doesn't distort the weeve
-Apply 2 more layers of epoxy again using heat gun to remove bubbles, and allow full 24hrs to cure to first stage
-Now begin sanding with 1000grit wet sanding paper, just sand away any imperfections in your top coat.
-Once your happy with it, wipe it down with good tack cloth and prepare to spray clear coat.
-3 layers of clear coat with 10 minutes in between stages.
-ENJOY

Thats a nut shell of carbon fiber skinning, I've done some pieces in my car like this as well and come out happy, just takes time and patience like any custom work.
 
Good info Mi'Sma and not a bad job on the FG'ing. I have to say though... the main reason I say to stay away from fiberglassing a dash into a DD and especially a DIY glass job is because you did exactly what you shouldn't do. Too much bondo used. That is probably going to crack through that paint. The bondo process is meant to just skim coat and cover low spots and veins in the fiberglass. The sanding process is the key to smoothing everything out and ensuring there's no high spots or excess in bondo. It's a really long process but I can do a full write up on the process if needed. I think I still have my membership to a wholesale dealer for all the stuff needed if you want to tackle the project.
 
There is no exposed bondo beneath the paint, the top layer is 3 layers of glass. So I don't think anything will crack though.
 
Good info Mi'Sma and not a bad job on the FG'ing. I have to say though... the main reason I say to stay away from fiberglassing a dash into a DD and especially a DIY glass job is because you did exactly what you shouldn't do. Too much bondo used. That is probably going to crack through that paint. The bondo process is meant to just skim coat and cover low spots and veins in the fiberglass. The sanding process is the key to smoothing everything out and ensuring there's no high spots or excess in bondo. It's a really long process but I can do a full write up on the process if needed. I think I still have my membership to a wholesale dealer for all the stuff needed if you want to tackle the project.

Do you have access to CF for a good deal? I love the look of it and want to start practicing making stuff.
 
Do you have access to CF for a good deal? I love the look of it and want to start practicing making stuff.

I might be able to find it through my wholesaler. I actually have like 200 yards of fiberglass in my garage right now so if you wanted to go that route, just let me know. We could work something out. I prefer trade so let me know the route you want to take. I'll check on CF
 
If you can put on enough layers of fiberglass on top of the fabric shape you create, it'll be as sturdy as a rock. You'll have to put on at LEAST 4 layers. Hop on fiberglassforums.com and check out some of their sticky's and custom projects. I have seen some crazy stuff on there and for it to be sturdy and not break or flex, you need it to be like 1/4" thick.

Good luck to you! Post some pics!
 
Looks amazing, great job. Now if someone would do a nice redesign for the 1g dash to make it look like a 2g dash I'd be in love.
 
Check this video out. This guy does a full fiberglass dash

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k7cmW9xZ3D0]My 2.3 Eclipse GST Turbo Build! - YouTube[/ame]
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top