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Super Bumpin Sub Box

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GSLENK

10+ Year Contributor
1,416
53
May 25, 2011
DC, Maryland
SO... I spent the past week planning/measuring (twice so i only cut once LOL) after about 4 different designs and 3 hardboard mock-ups and some changes of heart, here is the winner. Im too lazy to post fuller pics, but heres what i got until i carpet it.

Fits great, has 1.81 cubic feet somehow LOL. a little room on each side for groceries or a back pack, not much else. Best thing is it comes out with a key, and 3 minutes time. The fit is so tight, you have to fold the rear seats down to install/remove it. once installed, the seats go up and function as normal.

Sorry pics are shot at night... Ill post more when I get more stuff done to it. (carpet!)

And it bumps like a mofo. :hellyeah:
 

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wouldn't it be louder and more sonically efficient to build a ported enclosure, sub up, port back? similar to what makes CRX's loud as hell? folded horn concept...
 
honestly, depending on how much power you are running to it, the box maybe a little small. i have a type R, which is the model below the type X, and it needs 2.4ft of airspace. What kind of amp are you running?

i bet this thing is loud, my type R is over 6 years old and still pounds.
 
ehh. Get that carpeted asap. Really tho, there are tons of other ways to do that don't stick out like a sore dick, thump harder than that will, and are unnoticeable except for the thump. I have 2 15's in an isobaric box, 3.5cuft, and slot ported to 29hz. That box has a gain of 9db at 35hz!(I'll bet that box is down 3db at 35hz) When you couple that with a 95db woofer, even a 50w amp makes it absolutly slam. Oh and it fits under the factory package tray.
 
honestly, depending on how much power you are running to it, the box maybe a little small. i have a type R, which is the model below the type X, and it needs 2.4ft of airspace. What kind of amp are you running?

i bet this thing is loud, my type R is over 6 years old and still pounds.

I love my type r sounds great, only problem Ive had out of it is the rubber separating from the cone but easy fix. Ive tried to blow the thing but it will not die LOL.
 
I love my type r sounds great, only problem Ive had out of it is the rubber separating from the cone but easy fix. Ive tried to blow the thing but it will not die LOL.

I had a different type x from 2007. the cone and rubber seperated early 2010. shoo goo and still bumping in a cheap sealed enclosure in my lil bros car because im lazy. but still bumpin.

You have 2 subs in an isobaric enclosure? I guess I could see how it would fit under the trunk tray maybe ill try that when i go to 2 12s. I assume yours are pointed straight up?that might me hard for me... my sub is 9inches deep from the mounting point, 1" sticks out of the box, and you should have aat lease 2 inches behind the sub, plus the .75" of MDF in the back (absolute mechanical min is 11") I believe the largest distance bounded by the hatch bottom and the upper edge of the rear seat (or lower side of the rear tray/cover thing) is about 10-11" tops. That wouldnt work.
My design, i believe is the best spacially working with this particular sub. The enclosure could not possibly be any shorter. I supopose a smaller sub could be made to fit way better (smaller depth, could be a shallow 15...) Keep in mind I have the spare tire still underneath all of this, fully inflated. carpet and fake floors/braces all that still down there. so the car is still 100% functional back there. Also the enclosure is solid mounted, but easily removed incase i want to pack my undersized trunk with stuff.

Yes, all the 1g's ive had are always louder in a crx style box with subs up port back.

Hmmmm dammit. That was one of my thoughts in the final design stages

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/app...-audio-gurus-please-advise-sub-enclosure.html

I didnt even think about reversing the port...

I really dont think all that makes a difference. If the port is on the same, opposite, or perpendicular plane to the sub baffle it certainly wont increase sound (please correct if wrong) isnt that why most ports from high end audio (bose harmen kardon etc...) all ported on the speaker face plane?

And I had another box in a trunk of a saturn and hatch of a vette, and rear seat of a f150 (folded one of the split single seats up, ant pointed it sideways. all in diferent positions, and all in the "cabin" so to speak (except of course the saturn) In the vette it was pointed up, back, foreward and sideways with no real difference.

Heres a pic of the other box...
 

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Ha,i had the same issue with my Type R having the rubber come off...glued that bi*** and its been good since.
 
Looks like you're asking to get your shit stolen. But it's definitely unique.

Unless he garage's it like I do;)

Like to concept but I do agree that the sub should be facing to the rear. I'm running a RF P3D12 powered from a RF BD1k in a non-ported box but I think I will be porting it some time soon.

Good job none the less:thumb:
 
Unless he garage's it like I do;)

Like to concept but I do agree that the sub should be facing to the rear. I'm running a RF P3D12 powered from a RF BD1k in a non-ported box but I think I will be porting it some time soon.

Good job none the less:thumb:

It can't be garaged all the time. I garage mine too, but there are times like when it's sitting in a parking lot I would still worry about it.
 
Looks like you're asking to get your shit stolen. But it's definitely unique.

U really think so?

Its a D-Ring tie down bolted to each side, then Coated cable, which is whimpily attached to the top of the box till i carpet.

Ok, ok. I know the drywall screws holding the cable to the box are the weakest link for now... (please dont comment on that, I actually laughed when i thought about it to myself) I will be using carraige bolts, or at least a hex with a nylon locknut on the inside so at least it will just spin if loosened against a washer.

And until i get it carpeted, i keep this black sheet over it. Car is parked in my driveway, and i have night vision cameras because all the hood rats come from down the street to the rich suburbs to go "shopping". too bad rich people drive nice cars with factory gps and bluetooth radios so theres no valuables, onle broken windshields... smh, f-ing scumbags. Either way, I think my deal will keep the pipies out. I had enought fun just trimming that cord with all my tools, (heavy guage chain cutters, chisel/hammer/wood block, metal saw, wire cutters) Im pretty sure it will be hard as a mofo to steal.

forgot pics

And no fair! I hear all these amazing fantasy sounding sub setups... I wanna see em! 15s under the tray, 12s facing the rear... I gotta see these.

And im still convinced... My sub will not face the rear. period its 13" O.D. Heres my sub dimensions for all of you creative thinkers out there:
Imagine a Trapezoid (im talking center cross section plane, parallel to depth, perpendicular to diameter, where the top and bottom are diameters)

Top is 13"
Bottom is 9"
Height (depth) 10"
 

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My 15's point backwards. I think the way it all works out it ends up acting like a horn with the angle of the winsheild and such.

Also, I kinda forgot that 1g AWD's have a hum in the floor for the gastank/spare. I made mine flat so I could put my box in.

But, you could run a pair of 12's isobaric, and only need 1/2 the box you have now.
 
Also, I kinda forgot that 1g AWD's have a hum in the floor for the gastank/spare. I made mine flat so I could put my box in.

But, you could run a pair of 12's isobaric, and only need 1/2 the box you have now.

Cheater! As long as you are winning! I hope you don't get a flat, *knock on wood*

I actually think im pretty satisfied overall. I took a bunch of measurements to test your guys ideas out. I was pretty inspired until my measuring tape told me to go F myself. It is in my nature to change at every opportunity for what I think may be better. It cant possibly get any louder. and I havent even turned it up all the way. the enclosure is definately more efficient than my previous, and it has a greater internal volume.

Any Ideas on covering humpty dumpty back there? I will probably get tints all around eventually. Maybe attach a small peice of the sheet over the sub or just get a real grill?

Also what are your thoughts on poly fill? im thinking 1 pound for my 1.8 (smooth airflow a bit without really clogging stuff up, and keep the wire from bouncing around in there.
 
In my experiences you don't get as much bass and a he'll of a lot more distortion with the speaker facing you than away. You could havebuilt a box that fit Iin between either seat hight or lower with the sub angled up and ported it that would give you mmore bass
 
depends on what sound you are after. Right? Ive heard some good sounding isobaric enclosures. but, isobaric is a sound quality kind of enclosure. If i remember correctly, while requiring less space, it yields a loss of 3dB. Then you have the sealed box, still fits ok but you probably want to throw more power at it. a ported box,needs more space, but has a gain of about 3dB. I had my best results with 1-15 pointed up at the glass and the ports aimed at the rear bumper. How do you feel about doing a little fiber glass? too much trouble?
 
I have had this sub in 5 cars and it has pointed forward in 3 due to space constraints (3 cars without real trunks: C4 corvette, F150, Laser). I don't get any distortion at all and I cannot hear a difference between this configuration and the others where it was isolated in the trunk. This is probably because it is a flagship sub, in an optimal enclosure, made of .75" MDF.

It's a 1kw RMS (3kw max) rated sub, paired with a 1kw RMS amp. There is plenty (too much) bass available to combat poor location acoustics.

In the corvette and saturn, I believe I intentionally pointed it in different directions, (front, back, and sideways) and I honestly could not tell the difference. So I opted to point it away from the window and away from poking fingers or other objects. I might have enough room to aim it upwards (by rebuilding an enclosure), but not backwards. There is simply not enough room.
 
This is pretty awesome. Im looking at building a box for my GST. Just need to make some measurements and start crunching numbers. Im using a single S10L5. So knowing the demsions of ur box and size I think i can achieve what I was thinking about now
 
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