2g Door Glass, Whats Diff? [This is.] window difference

[iisbernhard]

i have a 97 awd tsi that has been broken into....the passenger window is broken as well as the rear quarter window....i was wondering if i go to a junk yard if the glass is the same for power windows and manual windows...also is it possible to get out the quarter window without breaking it?....thanks

 

[kenamond]

I've been searching and haven't found what I'm looking for.

The front, bottom end of both windows has a guide bolted to it. You can see this bracket on the image below (from CanadianTSi's post here). You can see that the white nylon sleeve is not on the track (it should be):

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-6/1035057/doors002.jpg

The bracket is bolted to the window, and there's a nipple on the bracket that sticks through the glass but isn't bolted. It keeps the bracket from rotating around the bolt. The picture below shows the bracket and you can see the nipple sticking out the top of it (from CanadianTSi):

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-6/1035057/doors004.jpg

Now for my problems. The nipple popped out of the glass, and the bracket rotated about the bolt so that the bracket doesn't stay on the track and I get the common window rattle when I close the door with the window down.

I loosened up the 10mm nut so that I eventually could pop the nipple back into the glass (there's actually a thin white plastic part that protects the glass from the bracket and lines the hole that the nipple goes through) and tightened the nut back up. I put the door back together thinking, "job well done!," but the first time I rolled the window back up, it got stuck about 2/3 of the way up. I pulled the panel back off and saw that the nipple on the bracket was out of the glass again.

My Haynes manual picture of the window doesn't show an exploded view of that bracket, so I don't know what that 10mm nut threads onto.

So my questions are:

1) What does the 10mm nut thread on to?
1a) If I take the nut off, what's going to fall off of the exterior side of the glass?
1b) Does it have an allen wrench socket in it? What size (can't see it and trial-and-error is NOT FUN)?
2) Has anyone had this problem and know a solution?

Maybe the bracket is bent, but I don't wanna open a can of worms when I unbolt that bracket.

Sorry for the novel and thanks!

 

[1gnow2g]

Kenamond:

Q1: There is a bolt that goes through were
the guys finger is in the second picture. Do
not over torque, as the glass could fracture.
The nipple is for alignment, along with the
bolt. Use a 10 MM open/closed end, and very
small hands.

The unfortunate thing about the fix, is that the
nylon gets very brittle over time. Clamp the metal
with vise grips to compress the nylon friction points.
Then reinstall with some white grease on the rail.
Also remove the interior weather strip to get access
to the felt pad agustments. Tighten up the agustments
with the Allen and socket as required to compensate
for the aging felt pads.

 

[awinterstale]

i have a similar problem too. On the left side of the window on the bottom corner i am missing a piece that holds the window in the track. My window rattles like crazy. Is it a easy fix or would i have to take it somewhere?

 

[kenamond]

Kenamond:

Q1: There is a bolt that goes through were
the guys finger is in the second picture. Do
not over torque, as the glass could fracture.
The nipple is for alignment, along with the
bolt. Use a 10 MM open/closed end, and very
small hands.

The unfortunate thing about the fix, is that the
nylon gets very brittle over time. Clamp the metal
with vise grips to compress the nylon friction points.
Then reinstall with some white grease on the rail.
Also remove the interior weather strip to get access
to the felt pad agustments. Tighten up the agustments
with the Allen and socket as required to compensate
for the aging felt pads.

What does the head of the bolt look like? Is it an allen head, hex head, or what? My problem isn't the typical window rattle. The normal problem (from what I can gather) is that the nylon guide wears out, and the window can move too much on the track, and the glass hits the track when you slam the door with the window down. My problem is that the nipple is not staying in the glass. The whole bracket rotates about the bolt, and the nylon guide is nowhere near being able to do any good.

Guess I'll just pull the nut off and see what falls apart. Then I can take a look at it and see if the bracket looks bent or if something else stands out. Then I'll pray that I can put it back together.

 

[kenamond]

i have a similar problem too. On the left side of the window on the bottom corner i am missing a piece that holds the window in the track. My window rattles like crazy. Is it a easy fix or would i have to take it somewhere?

If it's the bracket shown in the picture above, you may be able to get one at a junkyard. You might also just feel around down in the bottom of the inside of the door. I found parts for my passenger window down there. All of the pieces of that bracket are too big to fall through the drain hole, so they may be in there. It may have just vibrated loose.

 

[Grimis]

Im looking to find what is diffrent from the 2gs that where built from 1.1-94 to 5.1.95 and the ones built from 5.2.95+.

My car was built in Aug of 94 as it says so on the door jam plate. And i need to replace the glass in my car doors (both driver/pass) and i have a pass side glass out of a 96, but whats the diff? Can any one tell me??

 

[Grimis]

well only thing i found is the rear striker/bump stop or what ever is the bolt, but the glass it self has 2 part numbers for thouse years, and im kinda scratchin my head as to why ..

but thanks, i hope there is nothing diffrent when i go to put this 96 passanger side in. now to find a driver side...

 

[Grimis]

well i deff can not use 5-2-95+ glass, will not work, and here is why

On the Pre 5-2-95 glass, the mouting brakets on thew window motor braket (the part the lifts the window) they are closer together.

I know this i just spent the last 1hr trying to figure out what to do.

So easest way to show you is like this:


Pre x------x---x-------x---x before 5-2-95
after x----x--x----------x---x 5-2-95+


so now i have to figure out if some yards out of state will ship door glass

 

[roadrunner2176]

When I had my drivers side replaced on my 97, I ran into two different numbers as well. Both will fit, the only difference is that one has a slight green tint manufactured into it. Well that and about 300 dolars more from the dealer. These aren't exact numbers, not looking up quotes here, but the regular clear glass was somewhere around 290 and the green tinted glass was near 600.

Of course, you can always find glass at any salvage yard for $50, and it shouldnt be any more than 25 to ship.

 

[Grimis]

well i found some yards that have both sides, just have to wait till monday..

as for you replacing your 97, you had no problem, unlike me, i have a 94 build 2g, and the glass mounts are diffrent, as to why mitsu/chrysler desided to change them, who knows. but I know the bracket doest line up. Im going to trace the bottom of the window that i tried putting in so when i go to this yard to check, i'll would't have wasted the trip up and back to find out the same thing as i did.

 

[Grimis]

the reason behind that i cant use 5-95+ glass is they changed the window regulator as well. If mitsu would have put a note with the glass as saying "HEY we changed this, use this now" would of made my life a bit easer.

 

[CaviSpeedRacer]

Alright, so my window was smashed out when my car was broken into - so I picked this window up from a junkyard that said it was from a 98 Eclipse.

I tried to replace the window earlier tonight and it would not fit! One of the tabs is about 2" off, and it is the wrong window.

I have a 95 Eclipse, and am wondering if the years matter - I thought 95-99 were the same for windows?

Here's a pic - What year is this window from?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[absolute_DSM]

CAPS shows build dates 9401.1 to 9505.1 (the 95s) and 9595.2 to 9904.3 (the other 2gs).

Looks like the 95s had a different window from what Im seeing.

Left Side
9401.1 to 9505.1 - Part Number MR708261
9505.2 to 9904.3 - Part Number MR264297

Right Side
9401.1 to 9505.1 - Part Number MR708262
9505.2 to 9904.3 - Part Number MR264298

 

[CaviSpeedRacer]

Thanks Absolute, you're right.

I called the junk yard this morning and explained the mis-hap. My car was built FEB 1995, so it has the 1g window in it.... luckily they have a 1g window that I can just swap!

Thanks again for the quick response!

 

[CaviSpeedRacer]

Also, what is CAPS, and where do I go to find it?

 

[RedTalon95]

Read and download here:

Stealth 316 - WINCAPS Installation

CAPS can be a great tool for answering your own questions.

 

[Locke]

Thanks Absolute, you're right.

I called the junk yard this morning and explained the mis-hap. My car was built FEB 1995, so it has the 1g window in it.... luckily they have a 1g window that I can just swap!

Thanks again for the quick response!

It's still a 2g window.

If you cannot get the correct glass, you can cut a new hole in the glass.

 

[NeMiZiS]

So, if I have an early 95 it has a 1g window?...
I don't get it, aren't they shaped different?..

 

[SOADweskey]

Early 95 is still a 2G window it is just different from the later 2Gs.

You are correct that the 1G windows are a different shape.

 

[kenamond]

So I dug into my window issue again this weekend. The front guide was off the track again. I started looking more carefully (peeking down the slit where the window comes through) and noticed the front track was badly bent. I have no idea how it got that way (first two images). So after I was putting the guide back on and putting the window up, the guide hit the massive bends and jammed. Eventually, it'd throw the guide off the track (but the window would then go up which was better than stuck).

So I used a vice to flatten out the bends and a hammer/anvil to get it as perfect as I could imagine it was supposed to be. Then I filed/sanded the vice and hammer markes so that the white plastic in the guide wouldn't wear down so fast and reinstalled. Works perfectly! Second and third images show the after shots.

Then I went and fixed the passenger window which I only recently noticed wasn't going all the way up. Front guide was off the track. I was a pro by then, so I fixed it in about 5 minutes. Now I have two properly functioning windows.

 

[Grimis]

nice looks better now . Yeah the earler 2g's having different windows was a pain to find out. I still have a 96+ windows on my front porch (come gets if you needs it ).

 

[kenamond]

Heh, when I went digging for my old thread, I saw that it got merged with other window threads. Learned about the window glass difference issue...not that my thread had anything to do with that, but...

 

[Locke]

You're becoming a bit of a DSM window ninja yourself, Mack.

I need to get down to a scrapyard and find a window guide still. :sigh: Still works though.