1Ga High + Low beam mod?

[Talesin]

I drive quite a bit in very dark areas, and with the stock 1Ga sealed beams every extra bit of light helps. I'd noticed that when you hold the turn signal/high-low lever in, as if you are switching from high to low beams, that both the high and low filaments of the bulbs appear to keep running.

Before I go off and trace down the circuit diagrams in my shop manuals, I was wondering if anyone else had installed a manual toggle switch to 'hold' that momentary switch in the 'on' position, potentially in a parallel short to allow normal lever-type operation when the toggle switch is off.

Problems:
-I don't know if headlight main voltage runs through the lever switch; unlikely though, so only a light-duty toggle would be needed. If it does though, then it would be a potential electrical fire waiting to happen.
-I don't know if the ground from the headlights is rated to run for long periods with both filaments lit. Another potential electrical fire, without rewiring the headlights with lower gauge ground wire.
-It's likely that both filaments burning for an extended period would get pretty damn hot, dramatically lowering the lifespan of the sealed beams, or melting the connectors. This would be a question for anyone who has done it... if they burn out within a few minutes, or if they can deal with the heat for ten minutes at a time, given a while to cool again afterward.
-I already plan to go with an H4 conversion kit, but theoretically this would still work with those, adding to their already greater output... again, questions of bulb longevity and risk of electrical fire are raised.

I also plan to rewire my driving lights to run them at the same time as well, again adding to the total output.
All this, mostly because I hate the look of the 1G rally pods, and am too much of a cheap bastard to shell out for one, and spend the time installing and removing it every time I go out to enjoy a back road. The added bonus of keeping things sleeper, and convenience of use over the long-term is just icing.

Again, has anyone done something similar to this, or can anyone provide input on the problem points raised above?

 

[xveganxcowboyx]

Somebody asked this on cartalk (the radio show) at one point. They were concerned with burning out the switch. I don't remember the whole discussion, but they decided it was a bad idea.

I would expect some potential electrical risks, but I don't know any more than you do. I just get the "bad idea" feeling.

 

[Dorifto]

Interesting. I always thought the lows stayed on with the high beams on our cars, at least that's the case with my '92. I haven't had any issues over long-term use, but then again, my highs and lows are in separate housings, where combined heat isn't much of an issue.

 

[Talesin]

I'm not concerned with burning the stock lever switch, as I'll just set the toggle up as a 'short'... no power will actually be running through the lever high/low, but it'll still give the same effect as just holding the lever in constantly, electrically. If it's just relay actuation power, then it's not really all that massive load. Come to think of it, I'm sure it's relay actuation, as there's a HEADLAMP relay in the under-hood fusebox. With a little extra wire, some fuses and transistors for safety, could just set up a totally independent all-lights on/off toggle switch in the cabin, and not need to splice any of the electrical harness to get it to work. Hell, I have a spare switched 12V lead just hanging from where someone smashed my window to steal a set of crappy gauges... just hook that up and run three lines (high, low, fog) to the box, clamp them in place with the relays themselves.

I'm still concerned with popping the sealed beams (or eventually the H4s), melting the wiring connectors on the headlight end, or running too much current down a ground only supposed to be running a high or low filament at a time.

I pretty much know that it's a bad idea for all the reasons listed above (headlight longevity cut if nothing else), but I'd much prefer to have a 'god-lights' switch to set everything to give the most light output possible.
Also tempting to use it on the asshats who don't turn off their highbeams when they come around a turn, and see another car. But that could be dangerous, to the point of blinding them short term (with 1G sealed beam lights? Yeah, right...) and causing an accident.

 

[xveganxcowboyx]

It doesn't look like you're going to get any great answers. I would suggest going for it, but testing it out. Check current draw and whatever else you can at the lights and switches. Definetly feel the lines to see if they get hot, especially at the base. Keep a fire extinguisher handy.

 

[AndrewD5418]

Get the hella conversion e-code's if you want better lighting. Also, then get some H4 80/90 watt's or whatever they are.

That, or get yourself a set of those ebay clear euro ones, and do a HID retrofit.

 

[Talesin]

Already am planning to get the euro front H4 conversion kit, Morpherex. Only place I can seem to find them in stock is Fleabay though, and I'm a little hesitant to buy anything there. Thing is, with this mod even the H4s would be brighter, running both filaments. As I said, every extra lumen helps, even if it's already putting out ten times the stock output.

And no way am I going to slap in some ricer HID bulb-replacement, blind everyone on the road like a total asstard, and get a ticket for my trouble. Maybe if there was a proper HID projector retrofit/replacement kit... but not the El Cheapo honda-kid crap.

And yeah, I'll probably install the switch, keep a fire extinguisher around (and a couple spare bulbs) and let it run for a while with just the high filament on. Then feel the wires to figure out how toasty they normally get... switch to both filaments and run for another five to make sure they aren't getting TOO hot. See if I can borrow one of those remote thermometers from a buddy to check the bulb temps, and check it against the recommended operating temps.

Then do a write-up for the tech list. Shouldn't be too hard... only thing I really need to do is hook up signal level voltage to the high beam relay.

 

[AndrewD5418]

Already am planning to get the euro front H4 conversion kit, Morpherex. Only place I can seem to find them in stock is Fleabay though, and I'm a little hesitant to buy anything there. Thing is, with this mod even the H4s would be brighter, running both filaments. As I said, every extra lumen helps, even if it's already putting out ten times the stock output.

And no way am I going to slap in some ricer HID bulb-replacement, blind everyone on the road like a total asstard, and get a ticket for my trouble. Maybe if there was a proper HID projector retrofit/replacement kit... but not the El Cheapo honda-kid crap.

And yeah, I'll probably install the switch, keep a fire extinguisher around (and a couple spare bulbs) and let it run for a while with just the high filament on. Then feel the wires to figure out how toasty they normally get... switch to both filaments and run for another five to make sure they aren't getting TOO hot. See if I can borrow one of those remote thermometers from a buddy to check the bulb temps, and check it against the recommended operating temps.

Then do a write-up for the tech list. Shouldn't be too hard... only thing I really need to do is hook up signal level voltage to the high beam relay.

umm... hidplanet.com has some really damn good kits. The e46 is from a BMW I think. They also have Porsche and Audi. Look into it. Read the faq on their forums.

Those are REAL kits. With very sharp cutoff's.

 

[taylork057]

why so you can blind people?

 

[AndrewD5418]

why so you can blind people?

You're ignorant. Please learn to read. Learn about hid. Learn WHAT a RETRO-FIT is compared to the Ebay conversions before talking. You obviously know NOTHING about them.

Unless you know something, shut the hell up.

 

[Talesin]

Problem is, even with the HIDPlanet stuff I'd need to figure out a way to make a mounting plate to fit where the stock 4x6 sealed beam sits, as I do quite like the pop-up look. After that, I'd get to deal with the CA legality issue... apparently a law was passed to make retrofitting brighter-than-stock lighting systems illegal. I don't know if that applies to the Hella sealed->H4 conversion (which would explain why finding one on a shelf somewhere seems to be nearly impossible), but I'm relatively certain it would apply to the HID retrofit kits.

Taylor, he wasn't talking about the low-end ricer bullcrap replacement 9003/9006 bulbs in a halogen reflector, he was pointing me to a site that has actual bare HID projector assemblies, with proper bulbs and ballasts to get a true cutoff, instead of the blinding glare you're referencing. If you mean my intended high/low mod, then yes... it could also be used to thwap asshats who don't turn off their high beams.
Morpherex, chill a bit, yeah? He's probably just used to idiots asking where they can find the ricer crap.

I'd really love to go with the 'Complete Bosch Xenon D2S HID Projector Package' they've got listed, but it doesn't look like they show any kind of dimensions for the projector assemblies, so I can't spec out if it'd even fit properly, much less retain the ability to pop up... likely have to shorten the connecting rod between the pop motor and the actuation lever, or re-drill a new pivot point closer to the rotating axis on the motor end. Likely have to trim the top edge of the shinethrough to let the projector lens scoot through, if it even can be run without a wind/debris shield of some kind.
Would be awesome to be able to run it in either mode though... blackout the shinethroughs, and if an officer pulled me over for it, just pop up the lights before they walked up to the car. Or just run them up for maximum illumination in dark areas.

 

[AndrewD5418]

http://www.hidplanet.com/bosch.html

These projectors are in the kit you're talking about.

Projector Dimensions:

# Max height = 3.0"
# Max width = 4.0"
# Max depth = 5.0"
# Lens dia = 2 1/4"


I had a video somewhere of somebody that converted their celica or mr2 or something with popups to hid retrofit. Looked nice.

 

[Talesin]

Unlikely that it'd be able to mount that projector flush against the top of the current 4x6 sealed beam enclosure, to allow full shinethrough operation up or down. Five inches overall length isn't *too* bad, but when dealing with the clearances in the 1Ga pop-up assembly, it's pretty large. Fortunately, I just happen to have two spare assemblies just sitting in my closet.
Would be nice to know the length before and after the mounting flange though, and if the lens can be run 'open air' or if I'd have to figure out a way to make some kind of clear screen or shield. In that case, removing the popups entirely and using the lower half of the assembly to make a mounting platform would make a lot more sense, and then just seal over the former popup square with lexan or similar. Never really liked the MKIV Supra-style 'inset' headlights though, and it'd look pretty similar at that point.

Of course, all of this is just raw conjecture until I have the 'spare' money to shell out for one of their kits, and see what I can do about fitment. Believe someone took the halogen projectors from a Daewoo Leganza and fabbed a pair of mounting plates to that...
Ideally, a pair of halogen projectors and a pair of proper HID projectors would rock socks, if there was room. Though with a 4" width on those projectors, things would get squeezed in REAL tight, or have to be shaved and staggered back a bit (cutting further into the limited space in the popup assembly) if the halogen housing had the right dimensions to allow for just a slight amount of projector mounting flange overlap.
At this point I'm pretty sure it could be done, but the money just isn't there for parts, much less fabrication.