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2G Sound system sound ok?

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you will need an amp for those speakers, using the deck to power them will most likely result in the speakers overloading it.
 
what power of an amp would you suggest? I'm new to this stuff.
 
speakers overloading the deck? If anything you wont get the sq that you are looking for and distortion at lower sound levels. Get ~500watt 4 channel amp if you want something really good. I have a 260wattx4 amp powering my audiobahn 6x8 components and 6.5 components and they sound great and there isnt any distortion unless you turn it up to the point where you cant stand it. Your setup looks good though.
 
No, you don't need an amp for those speakers. I have those same speakers (check tech guide for installing tweeters in the das speaker location), the sound quality is awesome with a Pioneer Premier DEH-P860MP headunit pushing 22 watts RMS and I get NO distortion (depending on what the high pass crossovers are set at). The SPL on these speakers are very high, so you don't need an amp compared to 88db speakers. If you are going into competition audio, sure, get a 4 channel amp.

Sensitivity
A sensitivity rating tells you how effectively a speaker converts power (watts) into volume (decibels). The higher the rating, the louder your speakers will play with a given amount of amplifier power. Sensitivity is often measured by driving a speaker with one watt and measuring the loudness in decibels at one meter.

The chart below illustrates that a few dB in sensitivity can make a big difference:

Speaker Sensitivity, rating Power needed, to produce a given volume
Speaker A 85 dB 100 watts
Speaker B 88 dB 50 watts
Speaker C 91 dB 25 watts

A speaker with a sensitivity rating that's 3 dB higher than another speaker's only needs half as much power to deliver the same amount of sound.

http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/learningcenter/car/speakers_glossary.html#sensitivity


Basically an Alpine speaker with 93db 22 watts RMS driven by a headunit will deliver the same amount of sound as a 87db 88 watts RMS speaker connected to a 4 channel amp AT THE SAME VOLUME LEVEL. The reason my 3db is important is because the human ear only hears sound increases in 3db increments.
 
And as far as subs and sub amps down the line, are alpine good with subs? or should I stick to audiobahn, or something of that sort?
 
I'm going with either Polk Momos or Orions for subs. For subs, stick with Kicker, Eclipse, MTX etc. I don't do Audiobahn.
 
If you want top of the line and are willing to pay for it pick up a couple jl12w7's. Audiobahns are good, all I've ever had. My 1 12" is louder than most peoples 2 12s. This is the point where it comes down to personal preferance though.
 
Scott_S said:
This is the point where it comes down to personal preferance though.

Agreed! There are WAY too many subs out on the market. Just make sure you find one that is enough for your amp. In other words, you don't need two 700 Watt RMS Kicker subs if you are going to hook it up to a 600 Watt RMS amp.

If you get subs that are Dual Voice coil, make sure that your amp is stable down to 1 ohm if you are getting Dual 4 ohm subs. If your amp is rated at 2 ohms then you can get Dual 2 ohm subs. Mono amps are good for bass, Class D amps take less current but are more expensive.

And for all your car audio learning needs...
http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/S-SbQzcIgVgOt/learningcenter/car/
 
you may also want to be careful about the rear 6x9s. they are a very shallow fit. i got 6.5" speakers and make a 6x9 plate and they fit like a glove. some people will tell you to hammer out your car to make them fit but personally thats a good hack technique if you asked me. i can make you the plate PM me if your interested
 
my 6x8s fit fine. If nothing else you can make a spacer to get a little more clearance.
 
Seen some misinformation and had to chime in. If you have a dual 4-ohm sub you can wire it in parallel and the amp will see a 2 ohm load. A dual 2 ohm sub wird the same way will result in only 1 ohm of resistance. Cardomain actually has a great wiring guide. Both the JL and MTX sites have alot of usefull tools too.

Also, check ebay for MTX subs if you want good sound quality. My absolute favorite 2 SQ subs are the MTX 10" 9500 and the JL Audio 10w7(Plenty capable of sql as well). It sounds like you have alot of alpine already, why not just match the subs to the rest of your system?
 
Oh, you can also get an MTX of Hifonics 5 channel amp and power your whole system!! Check ebay for them.

One more thing, the stock location for the tweets is horrible!!! Try sound staging them first before you install them. Alot of people (incl. myself) have had alot of luck with putting the in the doors closer to woofer. Try doing a search on it, seems like I remember someone had posted some pics of theres.
 
you can run the door speakers off the headunit. keep in mind though to sound there best they will need a amp and wont be as loud.. i have mB quarts q series in the front they sound alot better but since i havent changed the 6x9s yet.. the 6x9's are loder due to them not needing as many watts.. the sound imporved alot but there just not being pushed. i'll be hooking up a soundstream 414 (old school) hopefully next week..
 
for what you have get a 60-100 watt X4 amp.. W7??? as much as i love that sub you put 2 of them in there and you wont have any room and your car will fall apart.. also to make them sound there best you want atleast 1,000 true watts going to each.... if you want it to sound good and have some boom just get a 10" w3 or 6 in a small sealed enclosure .. hell even a 8 w7 sounds awsome in a eclipse
 
Can you run those speakers off the deck & will it sound good, Yes you can but if you want the best sound quality an aftermarket amp is always recommended. Look at the specs and see what Alpine recommends for RMS power. You don't need a crazy huge amp, usually 60 watts rms per channel will be plenty. As for the subs their personal preferance since there are so many companies out there. I can say I have had my lightning audio 12" sub for probably about 4 years now & I would recommend their product 100%. Great sounding sub, has lots of output (excursion) but also sounds really good as far as sound quality goes (nice and tight). Here's a link to the new version of the sub Im running:

http://www.lightningaudio.com/2004/products/product.asp?prodID=48
 
Not to hijack but I promise to only ask this one question. What is happening if you keep blowing out tweeters? (The ones in the dash) I have replaced them 2 times already. Once with OEM and the second with some clarion 3inch speakers.

Here is my current setup:

HU- http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage...t&productCategoryId=cat03066&id=1134701297858

Amp- http://www.scosche.com/efx.aspx?CategoryID=50&ItemID=HD3002

Sub- http://www.scosche.com/efx.aspx?CategoryID=69&ItemID=SW1204

Doors- http://www.scosche.com/efx.aspx?CategoryID=69&ItemID=HDC6750

Backseat- http://www.scosche.com/efx.aspx?CategoryID=69&ItemID=HDC6900

tweets- http://www.clarion.com/us/en/products/2006/audio/speakers/SRC916/us-en-product-pf_1134643389152.html

Dont knock the setup, it was free with the exception of the tweeters.
 
DGajre777 said:
If you get subs that are Dual Voice coil, make sure that your amp is stable down to 1 ohm if you are getting Dual 4 ohm subs. If your amp is rated at 2 ohms then you can get Dual 2 ohm subs.

TSIMonsteR said:
Seen some misinformation and had to chime in. If you have a dual 4-ohm sub you can wire it in parallel and the amp will see a 2 ohm load. A dual 2 ohm sub wird the same way will result in only 1 ohm of resistance. Cardomain actually has a great wiring guide. Both the JL and MTX sites have alot of usefull tools too.

No misinformation here. You are talking about 1 sub, I'm talking about 2 subs. :p

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an 8w7 would be great. I'm a single sub guy. I used to run 2 12's and believed in the dual setup for a long time. One day it all got stolen (no alarm). After that I got a single MTX MXS 10 (7500) and bridged it off an old MTX 8302 I had lying around not being used, and I've never went back. Single sub from now on!

P.S.- to the poster above. Sorry for the misunderstanding. Just didn't want him to go fry any amps.
 
Also, nothing wrong with scoshe! I have been pleased with every product I have owned from them!! You can't beat the price (especially for what you paid). Also, did you bypass the factory amp? and those clarions you bough, they are full range speakers.... not tweets.
 
I did bypass the factory amp. Sorry for mislabeling them as tweets. I stand corrected.
 
Bigglesworth87 said:
Not to hijack but I promise to only ask this one question. What is happening if you keep blowing out tweeters? (The ones in the dash) I have replaced them 2 times already. Once with OEM and the second with some clarion 3inch speakers.

Why not get a set of components and put the tweeter in the stock location like I did?
I wrote a write up in the tech guide - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=213063
 
I did do something similar to that with the clarion speakers I put in. (just took the gray plastic cover off and hot glued it to the top of the clarion unit) I then took the factory speaker harness and attached it to clarion speaker without hard wiring. Is the speaker just getting to much power? (lows/mids)
 
Bigglesworth87 said:
I did do something similar to that with the clarion speakers I put in. (just took the gray plastic cover off and hot glued it to the top of the clarion unit) I then took the factory speaker harness and attached it to clarion speaker without hard wiring. Is the speaker just getting to much power? (lows/mids)

It has to do with the ohm rating. I believe the 2G dash speakers were 16ohms or something wierd like that, so unless you wire them seperately like I did, you might have issues with not enough power going to them. I could barely hear my tweeters with the stock wiring, I rerouted some speaker wires behind the glove compartment and the gauge cluster to my crossovers which are sitting under my stereo, and now they all work fine.
 
Hey Bigglesworth, DGajre is correct. You're not the first person to post this problem. Try searching for tweeter + ohms or impedance (or any creative spelling of impedance). It's really not that hard to fish the wire through those areas of the dash. Good luck!
 
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