420A End-All Parts List to go Turbo

[LD25Delta9]

This is a Public Service to all the 420A guys out there. This will hopefully quell a lot of the recent "I've searched but not found any definitive answer" threads pertaining to Turboing the 420A. Now, there is a definitive parts list.

**DISCLAIMER**
I will not be held accountable for anything that may happen to the reader or their car for following this list. This is merely a list. It is up to the user for what parts should be used and who should install them. This is only a list of parts for the engine and fuel/ecu systems. This does NOT include drivetrain parts. Any thing beyond the "8lb. build" and you should reinforce it.

There are a couple of ways to obtain boost. There are the "1 click and you're done" kits like Hahn Racecraft, Treadstone, and SBR. These kits are very comprehensive and if anything is missing, one of their customer service representatives can surely help you. If they can't help you that's just Poor Customer Service!

There is also the eBay kit. Be wary of any parts purchased from eBay. Always make sure you check the seller's rating.

To nip some questions in the bud: No, there is no "tuning" required with the 8lb. build. No, I don't know how many horse these setups will add: 1. No Benchracing 2. Turbo A adds X amount of Horse at N amount of boost.
I hope this can be of some help to you guys scratching your head!

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Adam, if you allow users to suggest additions and nicely format your list, I'll copy it into the FAQ and sticky it here.

 

[Grimey]

Are you planning on going into more depth with this list? People would probably want to know where you can purchase these items and which specific brands that you recommend using or are using currently.
It was nice of you to take the time to get a list together.

 

[OblivioAssebit]

Nice list. Thanks, i'm sure everyone is going to appreciate this!

I agree with Grimey though. I remember when I first got into modding my car. I searched forever to find a good site to buy parts. I think a good list of sites to buy all the parts would be great. Here is my suggestions...

CI Motorsports
(I really like them, good prices....take FOREVER to ship)

Andy's Auto Sport Body Kits - Your Body Kit Superstore!
(Fast shipping, kind of have a lot of ricer stuff, but they have some good deals sometimes)

Howell Automotive
(great company, Not as many parts as CIMotorsports, but they have some different stuff that CI doesnt carry)

Also as dumb as it may sound, you can order a lot of nice parts from Pepboys. I go in there all the time and after awhile you will make friends with them and they will hook you up with 10%-20% off.

There are also local shops. Most of which are more than willing to help you find something.

 

[bagged420a]

And for those NGK plugs people need to know this number: 6097. Because parts stores don't list them as bkr7es but that number(6097) is in there system.

Edit: Also, I think it would be good to put somewhere better fuel system options for those seeking more.

 

[OblivioAssebit]

I created a little spreadsheet with various prices of the listed places. The parts are all new parts and do not include classifieds, eBay, or any other sort of used product. I will add used products pricing AVERAGES if they are requested. I will update it with anything you would like me to add to it. It shows that its not always best to buy all your parts from one retailer as others may have the same exact part cheaper. I added a lot to this but there is so much more that can be added. If you have any requests for the add PM me the part, model, and website and I will look it up and throw it on there. Its attached to this post. Please let me know what you think or if there is anything you would like changed. The more input the better.

I could not get the excel document to upload so a PDF is the best I could do. If you would like a copy of the excel doc let me know.

 

[rstare]

Excellent spreadsheet.
As someone else suggested, perhaps you should add several different options for fuel.

Such as:
12:1 FMU - easiest and cheapest, also least efficient and no ability to control what-so-ever
SFMU - step up from FMU, allows much better control than FMU, controls idle fuel pressure (so you can use bigger injectors) and controls the rising rate, allowing you to smooth out the AFR throughout boost. Slightly more expensive than FMU.
Portfueler - Used in conjunction with stock injectors, as soon as you enter boost the portfueler (other 4 injectors) kick in and provide the extra fuel needed. You can completely control these injectors. This is also the most expensive setup.
MSnS - Complete engine management system. You can build it yourself or buy a pre-built unit from places such as SymtechLabs. Either way you still have to wire it all in. This is by far the most extensive option, it's more like a project. You have to completely program everything from cranking fuel to ve tables, etc. It can be used piggyback with the stock ecu controlling spark, or you can use it as a complete standalone. Surprisingly, this isn't the most expensive option. If you build it yourself it won't cost more than a few hundred dollars, if you buy it pre-built it's not too much more. And still not even half the price of portfueler.

 

[JDO 97 RS 420A]

This is a Public Service to all the 420A guys out there. This will hopefully quell a lot of the recent "I've searched but not found any definitive answer" threads pertaining to Turboing the 420A. Now, there is a definitive parts list.

**DISCLAIMER**
I will not be held accountable for anything that may happen to the reader or their car for following this list. This is merely a list. It is up to the user for what parts should be used and who should install them. This is only a list of parts for the engine and fuel/ecu systems. This does NOT include drivetrain parts. Any thing beyond the "8lb. build" and you should reinforce it.

There are a couple of ways to obtain boost. There are the "1 click and you're done" kits like Hahn Racecraft, Treadstone, and SBR. These kits are very comprehensive and if anything is missing, one of their customer service representatives can surely help you. If they can't help you that's just Poor Customer Service!

There is also the eBay kit. Be wary of any parts purchased from eBay. Always make sure you check the seller's rating.

To nip some questions in the bud: No, there is no "tuning" required with the 8lb. build. No, I don't know how many horse these setups will add: 1. No Benchracing 2. Turbo A adds X amount of Horse at N amount of boost.
I hope this can be of some help to you guys scratching your head!

Sorry to wake a post from 10+ years ago, but I'm wondering how much HP a stock 420a will push if just going with this list. (No forged internals)

I'm just looking to get around 200hp on my 97 RS (added rear calipers) leave it FWD as my location in Canada is next to impossible to find parts for.

I'm willing to go forged internals (pistons, rods, hardware) if I need to but if that's going to be overkill for 200hp I'd like to avoid the cost.

Car is just going to be a fun summer driver, never seen one of our winters and is basically rust free. I'm more a body guy then a mechanic but I know google-fu

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

Hi Jdo,
Assuming compression, and whatnot is good on your 420a, most recommend keeping the stock internals in the block. I believe the only weak point in the block are the rods. I plan on following this list, but go for the Crower rods, as well as swapping my lifters and rockers for some from a PT Cruiser.

Though I know for a fact that many just turbo these engines with stock internals, and pray they don't blow. As they are pretty common to find blocks for the 420, but I wouldn't say you can find the heads so easily. The 420a head on the DSMs are called cloud heads. Otherwise, the blocks from PT's, and other Dodge vehicles have a 2.4 block which is actually a direct upgrade.

Essentially what I am trying to say is confirm compression is good, and the car is running as it should be of course. I know these cars often have a piston slap, and are basically a dime a dozen. Then I would keep stock internals in the block, then sturdy up that valvetrain and the cylinder head. I would also add a thermostat that bolts on between your oil filter and block for your oil to cool your oil as well as get a oil pressure reading, and such. Otherwise the spreadsheet looks golden IMO. and after all that I bet you can achieve 200 HP, if not a tad more.

I'll need to disagree, with some misinformation here.

Firstly, the pistons are the weakest point of the engine. I would upgrade to forged pistons for a turbo build, not re-using stock pistons or using standard replacements. The ring lands are prone to cracking or completely breaking loose.

Secondly, the Crower rods are more popular in the 4g63 than the 420a. You can still buy a set from CI Motorsports for over $1k, but the Eagle H beams can be obtained for less than $400 and have been proven over the years.

Next, I have never heard of the cylinder head being referred to as a "cloud head". You're probably confusing this with the Cloud cars. Such as Dodge Stratus & Cirrus. But those were 2.4L equipped which has a completely different cylinder head due to being reverse flow.

And I wouldn't say the 2.4 block is a "direct upgrade" as it will require some modification/fabrication, and whether it's actually an upgrade for a turbo car is highly debatable.