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Just ordered this kit..should I be good to go with fmu, and fuel pump?

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yeah it took some balls. :hellyeah:

and 1slow97, those are the one i would order.

I have everything planned out how to install except the FMU is a little confusing.

whats the easiest way to do it? i searched and searched and searched but its just so damn confusing.

also, for people that turboed a N/T, do you guys have a oil catch tank?

mine comes with one but I haven't heard anyone using these.
 
a catch can is alway's good and that crap abuot ebay turbo's is bull if you break the turbo in the right way you will be fine it you treat the trubo the way it shuold be treated you can't be in boost all the time turbo's get hot fast don't stay in it to long. if you want any turbo to last you.
 
OP: If you only have one, put the catch can on the end of the outlet coming from your Valve cover that would usually go to your Intake pipe, not the PCV hose...yet. You're lucky that you don't have the later model fuel systems. Because of that, you can mount the FMU under your hood. Here this should help with your FMU install. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/420a-turbo-conversion/188926-fmu-install-s.html
Make sure that if it doesn't come with the kit, get a FCD(fuel cut destroyer) and a 90* oil feed fitting so you don't kink your oil feed line. Be carefull to not overtighten the turbo feed line onto the chintzy oil feed restrictor adaptor. They are usually aluminum and will snap like a toothpick. Like stated above, just because it's ebay, doesn't automatically make it junk. Make sure you charge your turbo before running it, too. That means use mineral(non-synthetic) oil, and pour some into the oil feed of the CHRA then spin the compressor wheels. Do this a couple of times. I reccommend doing it after you install the turbo, while it's on the engine, with the oil drain on the CHRA already hooked up. Make sure you use mineral oil for the first 2 or 3 oil changes. It's better for the break in because it doesn't have additives in it that are no good for brand new bearings and seals. This is a highly debated topic, but many racing guru's swear by it....so I will too. I have an ebay turbo going strong on 7k miles with NO problems. I used some Royal Purple Mineral oil, which by the way, is REALLY EXPENSIVE! If you have ANY questions at all on the install, you are more than welcome to PM me. I went through ALOT of headaches doing my install and am more than happy to help someone else from making the same mistakes I did. Not saying that you will, but there is always unforseen BS that loves to pop up. Good luck man and remember: Don't get boost hungry. Start off at 5lbs and move your way up. Our stock fuel system can't handle much over 8lbs without sacrificing reliablity. Some have squeezed 10lbs out of their fuel system, but reults will vary. It all depends on how good of shape your whole system is in. Be Safe and Good Luck!
 
thanks a lot LD25Delta9! Your a great help and I will ask you about things that might come up in the install.

The only thing I'm really worried about is oil feed and return lines,fmu and maybe the oil catch can.
 
Not a problem at all man. Glad to help! For your oil feed: Pull your stock Oil Pressure Sensor on the back of the block(22mm if I remember right), and install the supplied 4-way adaptor with the supplied male to male adaptor with a thin film of red loc-tite on the threads. Reinstall the OPS on the right side of the 4-way and your oild feed line on the left with the suppplied plug on the firewall side, all with a thin film of red loc-tite again. Don't use nylon tape cause the oil will eat right through it. For your drain you'll either get the weld-on bung(heh heh) or the bolt on style with a gasket. Either way, here is a reference pic to show you the proper placement. Factory Oil Pan 95-99 Eclipse/Talon 420a :thumb: I want progress updates.:D Oh and don't forget to mock everything up and measure twice cut once. (downpipe, IC piping, and turbo drain)
 
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And a way to control the spark...

The OP isn't building a full race car with 30lbs of boost. He's putting together a quick DD. The 420A ECU will compensate spark just fine. It's our fuel system that is the weak link when it comes to boost. Thus the 12:1 FMU and the FCD and the Walbro. There is plenty of reference materials around here for you to inform yourself with. Please do so.
 
Thanks so much Delta your a god haha. I will let you know how it goes when I get it and have time to install. Im still going to be nervous. I was thinking taking the manifold to a exhaust shop so they could fab me up a downpipe, the only issue now is how to connect it to the exhaust?
 
hmmm.....If you take it to a shop, you'll have to tow it there...and then you probably wouldn't want to do the intial startup in their parking lot.....You got any welder friends? If you lived closer than 4 hours away, I'd be more than happy to fab one up for you. I know Treadstone makes a whole DP and Dump Tube package.420a 304 Stainless Steel Downpipe and Dump Tube - TREADSTONE PERFORMANCE The only downside is that you need to weld the flange on yourself. It's a nice little deal for $240.00 though.
 
If he tows it to a muffler shop, probably wouldn't be that big of a deal to tow it home to start it up.
 
I thought I didnt need a FCD if i have a 95?

That's correct, you don't.

Tow it to the shop? Come on guys! Do what I did- Take the hood off and stick a piece of sheet metal in to deflect the exhaust out. I'm assuming you don't need to drive more than a few miles...


Also- I'll warn you right now: You probably don't want to run an oil restrictor with that turbo. I just fried an ebay turbo due to lack of oil.
 
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