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420A Vacuum lines...which ones can I get rid of?

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eclipsers-t

15+ Year Contributor
158
2
Dec 7, 2004
Augusta, Georgia
I am about to do a complete rebuild of the Eclipse and have a question. I have searched on the forums but have not found anything. I was wondering if anyone can answer this question...Are there any vacuum lines that can be removed to eliminate some of them?

I know in the 4G63 vacuum lines can be removed, so I was wondering if it is possible on the 420a.

Thanks
 
I personally dont' think there are enough to go around once you get into boosting and adding more things that need a vac source.

Too many Tee's isn't a good idea, so just keep what you got.
 
If you need extra lines just drill and tap 1/4 NPT nipples into your intake manifold.
 
AC Compressor? WTF

The three ports on my intake manifold go to the FPR, cruise control, and EGR. Of course, there is also the large PCV port on the front, and the similarly large brake booster port on the back (more towards the throttle body). Finally, there is the "P" port on the throttle body, which leads to the EVAP system (although this isn't a 'true' vacuum line, since its vacuum fluctuates differently then the lines within the manifold).

Theoretically you can eliminate all of those (except the one to the FPR) without sacrificing any performance. The EVAP system can be removed, the PCV system can be bypassed, you don't need power brakes or cruise control, and people disable their EGR systems all the time.

Personally, I don't have cruise control, or the EGR system installed on my car. I'm also considering removing the EVAP just to simplify the engine bay, but there's no real need to do this so far.

As for the rest, I wouldn't actually touch the PCV or brake booster unless you have Total Seal gapless rings and you don't mind giving your right leg a complete workout everytime you come across a red light.


So, there you go... remove the EVAP, EGR, and cruise control lines at most. Don't touch the rest until you're ready.

**I'm assuming you'll do a little more research before just removing rubber hose; some of the things I suggested will cause CELs and/or vacuum leaks unless done correctly**
 
Only vac lines you really need are: BOV/Wastage (Those are usually ran off one line and then T-d off), FPR, the big brake booster line, and one for your boost gauge. I am running a SMIM and I only have 4 tapped nipples for the 4 above items.

If you need to have the emissions stuff, then you really cant get rid anything.
 
Seriously, the adding more nipples thing is the best way to go.

Its not that hard to remove the top of the intake. Just remove the bolts from underneath, get yourself a new gasket, and have at it.

Go to the hardware store and get a 1/4 NPT tap and the accompaning drill and just add as many as you need. Auto parts stores as well as lowes or home depot will have 1.4 NPT nipples.

Everything I have that requires a vacuum line has its own nipple.


EGR
BOV
FPR
Water injection switch
cruise
portfueler
boost gauge
boost controller
and zeitronix datalogger

I checked every single line with the engine running with a vacuum pump and get the same reasing for each so as long as you seal the threads with teflon paste you will be good to go.
 
Why are you even removing vaccum lines? Just leave them there. This is the kind of stuff that screws cars up, because it's just unecessary to do. You're not saving any weight. I don't understand....
 
If you have a 95, and you leave the solenoid connected to the wiring harness, you shouldn't get a CEL.
 
Does the 95 still throw the insufficient flow cel like the 96 plus when it tries to open the egr and doesnt detect airflow.
 
baxsom said:
Does the 95 still throw the insufficient flow cel like the 96 plus when it tries to open the egr and doesnt detect airflow.

I can't tell you for sure because I've had a CEL from day one (they never re-flashed my ECU when they removed the pulsed air injection system), and I don't scan my car for new codes regularly. However, I've always read that 95's just don't throw any EGR related codes at all; so long as the solenoid is still plugged in. I've had my EGR system disconnected for months now, but the solenoid is still there... if I get a chance, I'll scan the system and tell you whether or not there's an EGR related code.
 
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