420A Need oil cooler?

[cyrez187]

im doing some big upgrades to my engine like fully built motor with star stage 2 turbo kit. no was woundering do u guys recommend a oil cooler kit. i was talking to some mechanics and they said use MOBILE 1 oil it goes up to like 205 C. what u guys all think
only reason i ask is because the oil cooler kit i have goes where the oil filter goes then the oil filter goes below the peice for the oil cooler kit.which means all u guys that own 420a's is that my oil filter is gonna be sitting kinda low and my car is slammed!

 

[BigRand]

If you live in the Northwest like I do, an oil cooler kit isn't really needed. Infact a lot of people that have them up here tend to cover them up when it rains, otherwise the oil doesn't become viscous enough and damages the motor that way. If you lived in a place where its warmer most of the time then I would suggest it.

Stick with the mobil 1 oil, probably the best bang for your buck.

 

[clipsit]

Stick with the mobil 1 oil, probably the best bang for your buck.

Castrol GTX...I had too chip in...

 

[XMasta19]

nope...you're chipping in for no reason. Mobil 1 all the way

 

[Blitzeclips]

Bigrand and xmasta, please don't tell me you are using Mobil 1 synthetic w. a factory motor still... WTF

 

[clipsit]

what's so special about Mobil 1? Seriously anyone let me know? Castrols been good to me though...

 

[Blitzeclips]

Its Synthetic oil. Look it up, you will find the differences. Let not forget Royal Purple while we're at it...

 

[clipsit]

Its Synthetic oil. Look it up, you will find the differences. Let not forget Royal Purple while we're at it...

I get Castrol synthetic people...they make synthetic you know...And as for Royal...well if you got the money then go ahead. I would love to always put the Royal in and maybe I should think about it, but the non-synthetic Castrol was used before I was turbo and the synthetic gets used now that I am turboed...its been good to all of our cars. Like they say...don't mess w/ a good thing...

 

[Blitzeclips]

I have a question for all of you who use synthetic on a factory motor:

Do you have any leaks? If so where?

Reason I ask is because Synthetic is best used with brand new motors or before the facory sends them out . Synthetic is a thinner oil then normal 5W or 10W 30. It also has different properties that helps it find the way in your motor flaws. In other words, it may cause premature leaks or unecessary leaks because it's creeping around where it shouldn't be. I wish I could find the link to explain this better but it's not coming up..

 

[Talon ESI-T]

I have use mobil one in factory motors as well as built motors. The use of mobil one after conventional oil does not cause leaks. That is a myth and has been discredited a long time ago.

Ask yourself this. Why would mobil one leak or cause leaks on a factory motor that has been run with conventional oil for xx,xxx miles. If you follow the theory that Mobil one eats oil seals then ask why it is used on any motor?

I startd using mobil one on my LT1 Z28 after 50k and that motor never leaked a drop when i sold it at 200k. My talon leaks because i cant find the damn leak it has had since day one when conventional oil was used.

Terry

 

[Blitzeclips]

I have use mobil one in factory motors as well as built motors. The use of mobil one after conventional oil does not cause leaks. That is a myth and has been discredited a long time ago.

Ask yourself this. Why would mobil one leak or cause leaks on a factory motor that has been run with conventional oil for xx,xxx miles. If you follow the theory that Mobil one eats oil seals then ask why it is used on any motor?

I startd using mobil one on my LT1 Z28 after 50k and that motor never leaked a drop when i sold it at 200k. My talon leaks because i cant find the damn leak it has had since day one when conventional oil was used.

Terry

The reasons Mobil One would leak vs. conventional oil is because of its thinner properties. 5W is thicker and won't leak or sneak into places like synthetic.
Gary Howell himself said the same thing when I began leaking in the O-ring area. I'm not sure if anyone on this site would take his word for it tho... I broke the motor in with Synthetic and it leaked around 1 quart every 2 weeks. So we figured testing it over to 5W would create less drip, (thicker then synthetic) and the leak went down to a 1/2 - 3/4 quart leak per every 2 weeks.

Thats over a %50 less loss of oil because of the viscocity change. Its almost an example (on a larger scale) of internal leaks synthetic may cause, yet we dont have a camera to actually fit in there and see this while it happens...
It may be a myth, I can't really defend this topic all too much without that darn link.. Now if i can only find it ..

 

[clipsit]

The reasons Mobil One would leak vs. conventional oil is because of its thinner properties. 5W is thicker and won't leak or sneak into places like synthetic.
Gary Howell himself said the same thing when I began leaking in the O-ring area. I'm not sure if anyone on this site would take his word for it tho... I broke the motor in with Synthetic and it leaked around 1 quart every 2 weeks. So we figured testing it over to 5W would create less drip, (thicker then synthetic) and the leak went down to a 1/2 - 3/4 quart leak per every 2 weeks.

Thats over a %50 less loss of oil because of the viscocity change. Its almost an example (on a larger scale) of internal leaks synthetic may cause, yet we dont have a camera to actually fit in there and see this while it happens...
It may be a myth, I can't really defend this topic all too much without that darn link.. Now if i can only find it ..

No...that's all good man. I know Royal Purple is the way to go, but as far as other oils I haven't really researched. I have heard alot of people say Mobil is good, but I have had no probs with Castrol. We have been using Castrol as long as I can remember, since I was a kid. So maybe there is an oil that is the best to use...besides Royal. Maybe a new thread or maybe it's just preferance. That oil leak isn't good man...sounds like a bad deal to me...did they put your motor together right? IDK...just asking. Good luck.

 

[Blitzeclips]

Oh yea the differences between any of these oils wont be driveably noticeable but I'm just tryin to put it into perspective for you guys. Yea the oil leak isn't good, but it also isn't harmful. It's an O ring down by the Bedplate that require motor removal... . Lol, thats not happening anytime soon let me tell ya... But they did put the motor together I just forgot to replace that little O-ring during the swap. Out of the whole process with no problems, or errors, I left that one little o Ring.. . Even kicked over on the first turn. Gary and I came to an arrangement on the issue, but I can't tell you. Seriously tho I cant. It was a confidential agreement that I can't share with anyone or it would disrupt his business policies.

 

[BigRand]

1st off, everyone knows you never use synthetic motor oil for the first 3 or 5 oil changes because it is so very thin that the rings never seat properly.

Which is why I have been using conventional motor oil on my freashly built motor for the the first 5 oil changes ( I just happen to use mobil one conventional oil).

However I do plan to switch back to synthetic as the properties in that do protect better under high heat applications, such as turbo.

All I was saying is that Mobil one oil is some of the best oil you can buy for the price that it cost. (Royal purple, redline, ams oil are pretty pricey)



On a side note, please after a motor build use syntheic oil to break in a new motor, otherwise your pistion rings will not seat right. This was written in bold letters in the warranty booklet I recieved from my machine shop after having my motor built. If you do disagree with anything I've said here, please start a new thread explaing why or PM me.

 

[Blitzeclips]

Rand, you contradicted yourself. The 1st line say not use to synthetic but the 1st line of the 3rd paragraph said you should use synthetic to break a motor in. Its all good tho, looks like a typo, just giving you a heads up there.

 

[Talon ESI-T]

5w-30 synthetic is the same weight and viscosity of 5w-30 conventional so to say synthetic in general is thinner just shows ones lack of knowledge. The reason synthetic is thought ot be a better oil is because the molecules are not like conventional molecules. Synthetic has a much better tendancy to retain the molucular shape where conventional molucules will distort and deform. Think of conventional oil turning into Cycle-cell anemia where Sythetic will retain a round cell.

When heat is applied to conventional oil the molucules can deform and therefore reduce the viscosity of the oil where as Synthetic is much more resistant to that condition.

Synthetic is just as prone to contamination as conventional and has similer characteristics when detergents are added.

I highly doubt Gary howell told you synthetic is thinner than conventional when the same weights are compared.

Terry

 

[Blitzeclips]

I never said 5W of conventional then 5W of synth were different. In some cases its not. The viscocity of the oil will determine weather it can seep into holes here and there: or not. This is why (depending on the oil ) synthetic is used for brand new motors, because there are no wear n tear holes from years of abuse. In fact, early models from around 20 to 15 years ago had problems of gasket and seal swelling from the detergents in synthetic. Synthetic has the properties to free up the motor more because it thins with the use. Thus, the "energy conserving" synthetics you see today, which compares to a 0W-30 (NO 0W30 oils conventionally available... atleast I think). It has a lower viscosity for high and low temperature operating characteristics.

BTW, yes, this did come from Gary's mouth. He tried using it as a reason the Oil seal was leaking.

 

[BigRand]

Rand, you contradicted yourself. The 1st line say not use to synthetic but the 1st line of the 3rd paragraph said you should use synthetic to break a motor in. Its all good tho, looks like a typo, just giving you a heads up there.

Naw its cool, no heads up needed.

I just thought I infered that I would be switching back to synthetic AFTER the motor was broken in. I would go from conventional to a synthetic blend to a full synthetic oil.

Understand me now?

 

[97eclipsesleepr]

ive been useing the Mobil one ever sicne my car was turboed, the day it was in fact and i havent had any problems out of it.

 

[selmerguy]

First.... There has been much research in synthetic oil over the past few decades and it is now fine for use in breaking in motors. I did alot of research when I built my motor a few summers ago and that was what some very creditable sources told me word for word. And the viscosity of 5w-30 synthetic and regular is the same. Terry is right about the difference being in the molecular structure. Regular oil will get deformed(beat) over time. The idea around synthitic is that it will revert back to its orginal state with no deformities after it gets heated to 200+ degrees and beat to death by pistons and cranks and stuff like that.

Yes back in the day there was problems with people using synthetic oil to break in motors. It had to do with the detergents among other things. This should not be a problem anymore.

 

[Blitzeclips]

ahh... I quit with this thread

 

[XMasta19]

ahh... I quit with this thread

FINALLY, a post of yours I don't have to report as misinformation


I haven't been online in the past few days, otherwise I would have had to jump on the bandwagon here and agree with all of this wonderful technical information going around

 

[Blitzeclips]

FINALLY, a post of yours I don't have to report as misinformation


I haven't been online in the past few days, otherwise I would have had to jump on the bandwagon here and agree with all of this wonderful technical information going around

What an insult. Misinformation? Run that synthetic... BTW, How many times have you needed to swap your motor now???

 

[XMasta19]

who me? needed to swap motor = 0, rebuilt = 1. oooh, got me I love this forum...oh yeah, yes misinformation. stop telling people the wrong chit even after we've all explained it in multiple ways

 

[Blitzeclips]

I wrote..
The viscocity of the oil will determine weather it can seep into holes here and there: or not. This is why (depending on the oil ) synthetic is used for brand new motors, because there are no wear n tear holes from years of abuse. In fact, early models from around 20 to 15 years ago had problems of gasket and seal swelling from the detergents in synthetic. Synthetic has the properties to free up the motor more because it thins with the use. Thus, the "energy conserving" synthetics you see today, which compares to a 0W-30 (NO 0W30 oils conventionally available... atleast I think). It has a lower viscosity for high and low temperature operating characteristics.

As it thins with use the molecular compund chages thus holding up to higher and lower temperature.

Prove me wrong. Find the info that proves this is false. BTW, i do believe Smartass replies is listed in the policies before you post, please read them before you do so. If only that happened months ago...