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Turbo for N/t

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black97dsm

Probationary Member
3
0
Sep 5, 2004
Mobile, Alabama
Ok i'm sure that many people have asked about turbo's for non turbo's but i would like to know what i would need to do it. I have a 97 eclipse and my friend is giving me his stock turbo and i just decided to try it on my car which leads me to asking the knowledgeable people. I have some knowledge of turbo's and what i need but if someone could either give me a link or help me out it would be great. and no i don't want to sell my car and get a turbo one it is not in the budget right now ;)
 
I am in your shoes righ now!
About the turbo, make sure that the wastegate is set in low psi (6-7 w/O intercooler, 8-9 w intercooler). If it is higher PSI won't work with stock internals.
BTW What is the turbo T-25?
About the parts that you may need. Just look for a kit, read for the contents, and start shopping around for the parts. ;)

If I am wrong please, somebody correct me.

Tito
 
i dont recommend running without a intercooler due to the high backpressure just not worth the risk to take, spend the 200 bucks for a intercooler. if you guys dont know our stock compression ratio is 9.6:1 thats extremely high and you can throw a rod out on your stock internals very easy, 8psi is the max safe limit but let me tell ya you non turbo internals were meant to be Non-turbo ive seen people blow there engines at 7psi, im not trying to freak you out but it happens but for majority of ppl there ok at 8psi im boosting 5psi until i rebuild in jan05 its just not worth it if i blow my engine and have a chunk of my engine block go with it.

Positive side to our engine is there is no Crankwalk woot so we can boost away and not worry bout that, my compression is being lowered to 8.6:1 which is a .020bore over. lose excel power when turbo is not spoiling but when the turbo hits you can boost 20+psi.
 
Eclipsemblue said:
86.529 @ 16.126

It was at 7psi when i raced that time.
16.126 was ur e.t. with turbo? wtf, did u sit at the line for 2 seconds or what?
 
So all you have right now is a stock turbo? Stock turbo from what exactly? I assume t-25 or 14b for some gut reason.

Your going to have to get a whole lot of other parts to complete the system. Unless you know people who can fabricate the right parts, can get great deals, etc - then all these parts are going to total up fairly close to what a reputable turbo system would cost anyways. So you might be better off just buying a complete kit, and having the bigger turbo and greater performance/potential to come with it.

But if you're adamant about going for the homemade approach, then assuming you have the turbo and wastegate already, here is a rough list of what you will need. Hmm lets see:

Required
=========================================================
- All necessary piping, couplers, nuts, screws, fuel/vacuum lines, other obvious things
- Exhaust manifold matched for your turbine housing
- Downpipe
- Oil feed/return line for turbo
- Bypass valve
- Device to inhibit map sensor voltage change on non-vacuum situations (Missing Link)
- Higher output fuel pump
- Vortech FMU (basic) or SFMU (highly suggested as it is tunable)
- Atleast a boost gauge

Recommended
=========================================================
- Intercooler
If you plan on boosting past 5lbs. Absolutely required.

- Larger injectors
Factory ones wont hold up too long. Running lean is dangerous.

- Exhaust
Helps out big time in relieving backpressure, spoolup and top-end are noticeably better.

- Boost controller
Self explanatory.

- Upgraded clutch
Depending on current condition, stock clutch will hold for a while. But upgrade it and remove all doubts. Why get stranded somewhere because your stock clutch failed?

- New tires
You will want some better tires as traction is our enemy.

- A second car
You never know what will happen when installing this many parts. Not being able to get to work/school because your stock injectors crapped out sucks a big one.

I'm sure I missed some things, but this gives you a general idea of what it takes to go turbo. By far the hardest part of a homemade kit is getting the custom fabricated stuff done, the other parts are easily attainable.
 
Eclipsemblue said:
86.529 @ 16.126

It was at 7psi when i raced that time.

is that what other ppl are getting w/ a turbo kit?....id hate to pay that much money and only run a 16
 
Ryans99OZ said:
is that what other ppl are getting w/ a turbo kit?....id hate to pay that much money and only run a 16

I hope to God not, or I am officially scared. That quartermile time is definately not on a turbo 420a, why you ask? Because I know non-turbo's who have run those times. A trap speed of 86mph? That is non turbo 420a territory almost, so either this guy was running with a complete boost leak, or that is not a turbo n/t pass.

I don't mean to be harsh if this guy is turbo, but comeon let's put this in perspective. We all know the SRT-4 is FWD also, with a 4 cylinder turbo motor @ 230ish to wheels, so very much just like us turbo 420a's have. It weighs a bit more than us RS's (sorry not GS's), and with it's already said output of 230ish to the wheels, that is SPOT ON with a 9-10psi stock bottom end turbo 420a (based on past dynos). They run 14 seconds from the factory (according to magazines, someone has probably ran 13's stock) even with less than flattering stock tires. There is no reason why a properly equipped stock bottom end turbo 420a with exacting output and even lighter weight shouldn't be able to better that.

With stock internals, at 9-10psi on either a Hahn/Star kit you should be easily in lower 14's if you have the supporting mods. After I did all of my supporting mods, some tuning, lowering tire pressure, removing excess weight from car for the pass, I ran a 13.335@99mph. This was granted I had a great launch, but even without leaving the line perfectly, and with minor bog and/or tire-spin I was in the high 13's. Screwing up while leaving the line left me a few times with ET's in the 15's! So as you can see it is all in the way you leave the line.

This all depends on the turbo used of course. I can see how smaller turbo's (14b, t-25) used on a 420a would yield 15's.
 
it might have been 5psi cause ive raced so many times, and my average reaction time is a .8 cause i suck. I believe that was my first run with the turbo in. cause when i first put my turbo in i was super freak not to go over 5psi to blow my engine, but i have raced it on 7psi. my time slip doesnt really tell me what PSI i was boosting at but it was ethier 5 or 7.
 
Eclipsemblue said:
it might have been 5psi cause ive raced so many times, and my average reaction time is a .8 cause i suck. I believe that was my first run with the turbo in. cause when i first put my turbo in i was super freak not to go over 5psi to blow my engine, but i have raced it on 7psi.

What turbo were/are you using? Basic t3?
 
Hmm granted you said it wasn't good driving I understand the ET, but your trap should be a little higher. Do you have a mod list? I really would like to see your mod list if I could, sorry not trying to hound you or anything but it just sounds like something isn't right in your setup to yield a trap like that and perhaps I might be able to suggest a few things.
 
ive run under 16 before its just once u race so many times i dont remember race for race.

T3
Custom manifold
31"x7.5" Intercooler (no brand)
Vortex 12:1
Stock Fuel pump (may be the problem)
Stock Injectors (also another problem)
58mm bored TB
OBX Stage 3 BOV

ill get you pics of my setup, when i get home from college. Its alittle odd cause my air filter is on the left side of the engine and my downpipe is on the right side (driver side), but im in class right now so ill get back to you on that if you want to see.
 
Eclipsemblue said:
ive run under 16 before its just once u race so many times i dont remember race for race.

T3
Custom manifold
31"x7.5" Intercooler (no brand)
Vortex 12:1
Stock Fuel pump (may be the problem)
Stock Injectors (also another problem)
58mm bored TB
OBX Stage 3 BOV

I can already tell you that fuel is definately your problem here dude. The factory fuel system was designed to support 140ish horsepower, with what you're running now you really dont have enough fuel up top where you need it, and in turn you are more than likely running quite lean (not dangerously lean, because you would know, but lean enough). Once you're at higher RPM's you just aren't supplying the fuel required by the air your pushing, thus the lack of topend. I would highly suggest you get the fuel pump first, stock injectors are known to last a little while after going turbo even with a larger turbo than yours, so I'm sure they are "well off" compared with the fuel pump. I wouldn't even drive it much until you get that fuel pump, I'm kind of suprised actually, last thing you want is for your engine to get phucked because you went too lean.

So I would say fuel pump first, injectors second, and larger diameter exhaust helps with top end quite a bit if you dont have one already. Definately PM me if you need more advice, I was in the same boat once so I'm eager to help :thumb:
 
my friend is telling me i was boosting 5psi sorry guys LOL he remembers that race.

ya and the car does go sluggish once i hit a higher RPM level like when i hit boost at 3,000 it takes off but than like it starts to die out as you get higher in RPMS LOL once i get a spare 100 bucks i was gonna have to do that ;)
 
Eclipsemblue said:
my friend is telling me i was boosting 5psi sorry guys LOL he remembers that race.

ya and the car does go sluggish once i hit a higher RPM level like when i hit boost at 3,000 it takes off but than like it starts to die out as you get higher in RPMS LOL once i get a spare 100 bucks i was gonna have to do that ;)

Well then that explains a lot right there.

Yah tell me about it, the job market is just now starting to recover from that horrible low of last year so I understand money isn't hanging out of everyones asses. But I don't want you to blow up your car, so please heed my advice and get the upgraded pump ASAP :thumb:

Good luck man. PM me if you got any questions ever.
 
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