Rebuildin tranny.... ???

[Mitxubishi]

Im trying to find the best place to go with good prices to rebuild my tranny. Im looking for the whole package to suit my 420a turbo. I'm just tired of always ducking and tryin to find easy fixes to my tranny...... adjusting cables, stiff shifter mods, ect. I want somethin solid and something I can punch out in as well. Been callin a few shops and all i get is about 2g's in change. If ya got any ideas or advice just let me know asap. My ride is shop currently working on my block and internals and other mods, but the tranny is the hold up rite now....... thanxs

[Locke]

Any transmission shop can rebuild your transmission. There's nothing particularly special or upgradeable about the NV-T350.

Get a Quaife if you're worried about the differential exploding, and you can install that yourself.

[Mitxubishi]

Kept calling around and too many shops were asking way too much, my best bet is to get a new tranny and trash mine. Rite now my best offer is a good condition tranny and a guaranteed waranty for the whole yr just about $800. I know one of guys there somewhat so if anything happens im covered, no charge. And plus the tranny is already out and ready to go! So what you think......

[bullettdsm]

Originally Posted by Mitxubishi

So what you think......

IMO our tranny's are pretty strong. I would go with a good used. My current tranny that I race with has about 150k on her (not including the diff). Only problem I have is speed shifting above 8k.

MB

[rstare]

Originally Posted by bullettdsm

My current tranny that I race with has about 150k on her (not including the diff). Only problem I have is speed shifting above 8k.

MB

Mark, your also not putting down 300hp, and no offense in anyway.
I guess Im asking a question, how do our trannies hold up under, 300, 350, 400, so whp?

[Locke]

Mark is putting down well over 300whp in his other 2gNT. I know he has hardly a chance to run it, though.

To my knowledge, awddynamite is the only person to really complain about going through transmissions. The usual problem is the diff pin slides out at speed, causing catastrophic damage. This can be prevented by welding the pin, installing safing brackets, or even replacing the entire diff with a stronger Quaife unit.

[rstare]

Originally Posted by Locke

Mark is putting down well over 300whp in his other 2gNT. I know he has hardly a chance to run it, though.

Holy crap, 300whp in a n/a? Wow I didnt know that, lol, my bad Mark.
Thanks for the info Locke

[Locke]

Ohh, no his other car isn't NA. Boosted 2gNT. Sorry.

[rstare]

Thats what I thought....
You just capitlized the NT in 2gnt so I thought you were specifically saying its n/a. And it was really suprising cause I hadnt heard of it at all.
Okay all cleared up.

[bullettdsm]

Plenty of Neon guys are pushing those numbers through our/their tranny's, no problem. The main complaint seems to be (at bigger power levels) there is a nylon bushing that wears down and there is some talk about fixing that situation. But again, that is high rpm shifting (8k and above).

Right now our bigger problem is the differentials. We have choices of Phantom grip (pretty much useless), OBX (which requires quite a bit of modification/fixing to attempt to use it. But, as Locke knows, I am done with it ) and the Quaife ($$$$). There are other retro's out there (Alabama man and ERT come to mind), but I don't know of any that are currently being made (both of those choices are good but they no longer are in business. I run the ERT in my NA and it is great). I am currently trying to get another company to make a retro for my turbo.

MB

[Talon ESI-T]

if your referring to the nylon bushing on the input shaft Mark, our tranny's dont have that. The 3.94:1 trans has a synchros stop ring for reverse gear. Its located on the opposite side of fifth gear and on the same slider. The 3.55:1 trans doesnt have this stop ring so they have a nylon bushing or spacer there.

thats the only nylon bushing spacer i can recall. I have rebuilt several transmissions and i have never found any other.

We do have a nylon spacer that clips to one of the shifter arms inside the trans but that part doesnt see any wear.

Terry

[bullettdsm]

Originally Posted by Talon ESI-T

if your referring to the nylon bushing on the input shaft Mark, our tranny's dont have that. The 3.94:1 trans has a synchros stop ring for reverse gear. Its located on the opposite side of fifth gear and on the same slider. The 3.55:1 trans doesnt have this stop ring so they have a nylon bushing or spacer there.

thats the only nylon bushing spacer i can recall. I have rebuilt several transmissions and i have never found any other.

We do have a nylon spacer that clips to one of the shifter arms inside the trans but that part doesnt see any wear.

Terry

Nah, Terry it's on the shift fork. It's apparently a molded plastic pad on the fork. It seems that it wears and then speed shifting above 8k is a problem (which has been a big problem for me. I'm losing at least .1 on the "granny shift" from 1 to 2). It is referenced in various threads on neons.org. Here's one that you'll need to sift through a bit of "Honda" style bickering that references it (check out Jeff B#2 Its been a complaint of his for awhile)

www.neons.org • View topic - Build The Ultimate T-350

I have yet to spec out or approach said plastic piece, but I did line up a machine shop buddy of mine who is willing to play with his CNC machine for a little bit (family business). Thinking about trying different materials etc. Obviously, this is something for the off season.

MB

[Talon ESI-T]

Your referring to the Fork pads......I didnt consider those to be bushings. I still think round bearing like thing when i hear bushing. The fork pads hold up fine mark. I have pulled apart Transmissions with over 100k and the pads look like new.

You need to replace the entire shift fork if you want to replace the TEFLON bushing.

[bullettdsm]

Originally Posted by Talon ESI-T

You need to replace the entire shift fork if you want to replace the TEFLON bushing.

Not having looked all that closely at it yet, you have me at a disadvantage right now. I'll go with Teflon,

At any rate, I was hoping to somehow attack the problem of NLTS over 8k. I was able to do it with very little power (guessing in the 140whp range at the time), but just not able to get the tranny to do it when I started making power (funny thing is I never seem to hurt the tranny any when I try it. It just does not engage without a lift. Quick lift and she goes right in). I can do it from 2nd to 3rd but then I'm just before/around 8k at that point. Searching around, I'm seeing others with the same problem leaning toward that bushing (yeah, I thought about linkage/geometry etc. but I've pretty much ruled that out by either replacement or reasoning).

So that brings me to my buddy who works for his family's aircraft machine shop. He wants a crack at it with his cnc machine. He has access to a lot of different materials and he has the knowledge of their properties. You know we can make something up that can replace that bushing and figure out replacement (more importantly he wants to play for free ).

BUT, goddamm that's a lot of work to go on just theory (as you said you don't see damage/wear to the bushings). Would really like to see something definitive. BUT I want to try to attack the problem because I can see it being a limiter in the future (it already is with the NA. I firmly believe I am losing .1 on that granny shift).

You know I value your opinion (no brown nosing intended, actual sincerity this time ), would be interested in any thoughts you may have (besides learn to shift, moron). Just for information, the shift does not grind. It just does not go into the gear. The shifter itself does go into the 2nd gear position. No shavings in the fluid, no grinding felt in the stick. Just engine over-rev (which my engine can take). Oh yeah, if I short shift 1 to 2, no problem on NLTS. Its just gotta be under 8k.

MB