Where to buy a good timing belt kit

[IIv SHaDoW vII]

I have searched and found mixed results and outdated links so here is the question. Where can I find a reliable timing belt kit for the 420a. Also, if I was to go the autozone route, what belt should I get. I was thinking the goodyear gatorback belt, but then I found a few people on here saying not to buy that belt. So I have no idea what to turn to.

An off topic question. Is the sensor on the back of the engine (by the oil pressure sending sensor) the knock sensor? I figured it was, but want to make sure because I have to replace that too.

EDIT- Looking on here, DSMtalk, and 2gnt I see that 99% of everyone says to stick with OEM. So the new question is where can I find OEM timing kit parts for a good price. All the links in other threads are outdated.

 

[96TurboGS]

420A Chrysler 2.0 Timing Belt AND Bearings Avenger, Breeze, Eclipse, Neon, Sebring, Stratus, Talon

Also if you don't have one of these you might want to consider...


VIN 'C' and 'Y' Chrysler / Mitsubishi 2.0 Mechanical Timing Tensioner ONLY by Litens

BTW..His stuff is OEM

EDIT: For the knock sensor to be honest i wouldn't even worry about it. If your engine sees knock the ecu isn't going to save your engine. Its on the drivers side on the back of block.

 

[IIv SHaDoW vII]

Thank you for the link.. Exactly what I was looking for, I saw that our cars have 2 different types of tensioners, I'll find out which one I have when I get to it..

 

[96TurboGS]

Yup the mechanical tensioner is suppose to handle vibrations better then the hydraulic when under load. You just need to cut out a hole in the plastic and it should fit pretty snug. (instructions included, ) It is an upgrade.

Here is the link when they compare the two.

http://www244.pair.com/oldguys/PCIchart.jpg

 

[Demon33]

I researched this topic when I needed to replace my timing components and many posts I read suggested www.PartsDinosaur.com. I ordered the timing belt kit from them which included-

TB167 S A Gear Timing Belt
TB168 S A Gear Balance Shaft Belt
T60091 PCI Timing Belt Tensioner Bearing
T65274 PCI Timing Belt Idler Bearing
T60105 PCI Balance Shaft Tensioner Bearing
T60106 PCI Hydraulic Tensioner Adjuster (casting #533)
28-9212 ITM New Water Pump

And I also ordered the accessory belt kit. The main reason I went with this timing kit vs. OEM was that many people said that the parts were virtually identical if not the same as the OEM stuff. In fact, the timing belt tensioner has the exact same numbers cast into the body as the OEM one. As a plus, the kit was in stock, complete and included everything I needed so I didn't have to search around looking up each component.

All in all, I saved a few hundred dollars over the OEM components and have not had a single problem to date. I inspect the timing belt monthly and have not noticed any abnormal wear or deterioration so I'm feeling pretty confident that it'll hold up for the 60K mile service interval. But just to be on the safe side, I'll probably end up changing it out after the next 50K miles pass.

 

[1stGenTSi]

BTW..His stuff is OEM

Actually his stuff is not oem. I used his timing belt/waterpump kit and his 3g lifters with no problems. Can't beat the prices!

 

[96TurboGS]

Actually his stuff is not oem. I used his timing belt/waterpump kit and his 3g lifters with no problems. Can't beat the prices!

Take time out to read and you will find that it is......this was a quote in the mehanical tensioner page "please note that Litens Automotive Group is ALSO THE OEM for the original mechanical systems used by Chrysler" Therefore, He is OEM. Thats what i look for before i buy a product. If it doesn't say it on the page then its made from the same materials the as the OE.

 

[1stGenTSi]

Take time out to read and you will find that it is......this was a quote in the mehanical tensioner page "please note that Litens Automotive Group is ALSO THE OEM for the original mechanical systems used by Chrysler" Therefore, He is OEM. Thats what i look for before i buy a product. If it doesn't say it on the page then its made from the same materials the as the OE.

I have read the whole site as well as installed the parts. They are NOT oem. Mitsu does not use Flennor timing belts (made in the UK) Preferred Components Bearings (Made in China probably) or ITM waterpumps (made in Taiwan). Now I'm not saying there's anything wrong with these parts, but don't be led to believe these are genuine OEM Mitsubishi parts. They are not.

 

[96TurboGS]

I have read the whole site as well as installed the parts. They are NOT oem. Mitsu does not use Flennor timing belts (made in the UK) Preferred Components Bearings (Made in China probably) or ITM waterpumps (made in Taiwan). Now I'm not saying there's anything wrong with these parts, but don't be led to believe these are genuine OEM Mitsubishi parts. They are not.

You don't know where Mitsubishi gets alll there parts from, all you know is that u have them on your car and they have a mitsu stamp on it. Enough said. Mitsubishi Engine Rebuild Parts read that little statement on the page. Starts with (Many of these products from...) If your lead to believe these parts are less or not equal to OEM quality then don't buy from him. Gone

 

[davidaham]

I AGREE WITH DEMON33 I ALSO ORDER MY timing KIT FROM PartsDinosaur, Phoenix, Arizona, wholesale engine parts and kits. -PART #TS26246MHP -PCI IT WORKS GREAT I AM AT 45K AND STILL NO PROBLEMS

 

[rstare]

EDIT: For the knock sensor to be honest i wouldn't even worry about it. If your engine sees knock the ecu isn't going to save your engine. Its on the drivers side on the back of block.

When the ECU senses knock it retards ignition timing in order to try and "save" the engine. This sensor is actually very helpful, mainly for those who have a boosted 420a without a Megasquirt or equivelant.

 

[96TurboGS]

When the ECU senses knock it retards ignition timing in order to try and "save" the engine.

Agreed.

When your N/T your not going to see much knock, if any at all. (assuming your engine is well mantained/good condition)

This sensor is actually very helpful, mainly for those who have a boosted 420a without a Megasquirt or equivelant.

It's pretty useless when it comes to boost. The thing pulled too much timing when I was in boost, so I just removed it. If you have a wideband/egt and a good tune, detonation shouldn't be an issue. There's no telling what our ecu's will do (timing wise) when in boost on a stock pcm... We don't have srt-4's pcms....

***EDIT** OoO well you got your opinion and i got mine....The datalogger does not lie. This post does not go off topic (pertains to knock sensor) it is info for the O.P I was helping and anyone else who finds it useful. Keep in mind when you go forge internals/cams the knock sensor will be affected.

 

[rstare]

It’s pretty useless when it comes to boost. The thing pulled too much timing when I was in boost, so I just removed it. If you have a wideband/egt and a good tune, detonation shouldn’t be an issue. There’s no telling what our ecu’s will do (timing wise) when in boost on a stock pcm... We don’t have srt-4’s pcms....

The problem is that good tune. Most of the 420a-t's use a 12:1 fmu w/ 8psi which is not tunable. While this is relativley low and a safe amount the trouble comes in with people using 16psi on an sfmu. I know alot depends on the turbo and it's efficency but in an effort to not overly complicate things I would say around 10psi w/ an sfmu on a stock 420a is where you are going to start seeing knock. Most people that go beyond 10psi have a built engine with lowered compression ratio so it's probably slightly higher for most. But regardless you will be seeing knock at 16psi. Use a datalogger if you would like to see for yourself but the knock sensor comes in very handy at this point. The knock seen here may not be intense enough to destroy an engine the first time around but over time it will. And the knock sensor does it's job, it may over retard timing, like you said, but I would rather have over retard timing and still have my engine intact.
I realize this has become off topic, so if there is any more questions or input about this please start a new thread, or you can pm me.