Map Sensor Code

[Turbizmo]

OK here it is I got a check engine code on my 97 eclipse the code number was a 14 which is the map sensor.

I though it could either be the map sensor its self or connection or maybe even the missing link.

So i changed the map sensor and clip and missing link with the one my friend had in his 420a . I never had gotten this code in like years but yeah anyways we put my friends map/clip/missing link on and well the check engine light turned on again. i checked for melted wires and i could not find anything.

so any ideas what it can be? i gave him my Map/Clip/Link so he can try it out on his car see if he got a check engine light and it was working perfectly no code.

any ideas?

 

[rstare]

I know that I got a code after awhile for my Map sensor. It was just due to the FCD though.
Is your car running good besides the CEL?

 

[Turbizmo]

well it kinda just hesitates when i am in light throttle and when i am on full boost it sounds like if its back firing but back then it didnt even do this kinda of non sense. I comes off 1 out of like 8 days sometimes but then it comes back on. any ideas???

 

[Jeff99GS]

Check to see if that cotton filter popped out of the missing link.

You could just have a bad MAP...I had to replace the MAP on my 420a Turbo.

Also what is a "code 14"??? it should be likle a P0_ _ _
how did you check the code?

 

[PCD_RS]

Also what is a "code 14"??? it should be likle a P0_ _ _
how did you check the code?

The P0_ _ _ is for check engine scanners that are used like at The Zone and whatnot. Code 14; also written P1400 for the MAP sensor correct?

 

[Jeff99GS]

The P0_ _ _ is for check engine scanners that are used like at The Zone and whatnot. Code 14; also written P1400 for the MAP sensor correct?

Yeah that sounds right...My book shows P1400

How do you check the code without a scan tool though?



P 0 1 0 1
1 2 3 4 5
1st digit
P = powertrain
B = Body
C = Chassis

2nd digit
0 = Standard
1 = Manufacturer specific

3rd digit
1 = Emission management
2 = Injector circuit
3 = Ignition
4 = Auxiliary emission
5 = Vehicle speed & idle control
6 = Computer & output circuit
7 = Transmission

 

[Turbizmo]

you do the key dance you turn the key like if you where going to turn it on and then turn it off do this like 3 or 4 times fast and the check engine light should start blinking the first blink is 1 then it blinks 2 times so the 1st number is 12 then its pauses a bit and then it blinks 1 and then 4 times then its the number 14 then when the codes are done you should get 5 blinks and 5 blinks again which is 55 end of code errors here is the site on how to do it 2GNT.com - PCM_Error_Codes other than that yes the filter is still on the missing link and my car know is feels like its fuel cutting like ####er any ideas what it can be i tried already 5 diffrent map sensors from other working cars and my lights stills turn on even after i restart the ECU wtf is is up????

 

[PCD_RS]

have you checked if it is sending a signal from the map sensor?

 

[Turbizmo]

have you checked if it is sending a signal from the map sensor?

How do i check it?

 

[96TurboGS]

When you blow (1-2 psi) into the bottom of the missing link with the map sensor attached (measuring the yellow/black wire) does it read over 4.7v? If so time to get a fcd. If it's not letting the pressure past the check valve then the problem lies somewhere in your wiring/harness (assuming you have a new map sensor).

 

[PCD_RS]

When you blow (1-2 psi) into the bottom of the missing link with the map sensor attached (measuring the yellow/black wire) does it read over 4.7v? If so time to get a fcd. If it’s not letting the pressure past the check valve then the problem lies somewhere in your wiring/harness (assuming you have a new map sensor).

What he said,

 

[Turbizmo]

Is the car supposed to be on when i check the voltage

 

[rstare]

Is the car supposed to be on when i check the voltage

Yes.

 

[Turbizmo]

well i just went to auto zone and bought me a new map sensor and the light was off for almost the whole day till right now the car did stop hesitating and not back firing but then again the check engine light for the map sensor came on and know its doing the same thing it did befiore.

ck well i have a volt meter but my question is where do i put the ground at? do i just put it with the chassis? so then i can measure the volts. Also what do you guys mean by blowing 1 or 2 psi into the missing link???

 

[96TurboGS]

Any common ground will work. Your valve may show no sign of failure at low psi... If you have an air compressor you would get better results. If you are experiencing any type of fuel cut then I would get a FCD.

All you’re doing is removing the missing link from the intake manifold and blowing in the bottom of it.

 

[rstare]

Did you try taking the missing link out altogether; just to see how it runs?
That might be a good idea, I'm willing to bet it's causing the code.

 

[Turbizmo]

isnt the missing link used for that it would trick the ECU not see boost so it will not fuel cut me. I had the missing link long time ago and it never just to do this what will be the point of having the missing link and then buy fcd on top of that. Is either the missing link of FCD either one do the same thing dont they?

 

[Turbizmo]

When you blow (1-2 psi) into the bottom of the missing link with the map sensor attached (measuring the yellow/black wire) does it read over 4.7v? If so time to get a fcd. If it’s not letting the pressure past the check valve then the problem lies somewhere in your wiring/harness (assuming you have a new map sensor).

OK well I measured the map attached to the missing link and the volt measured 4.64v i also checked the missing liked and i blew as hard as could it was like inside my mouth and you could feel no air what so ever on the other side. But when u inhale it opens up. I ran my car without the missing link and it still feels like if its back firing.

 

[96TurboGS]

That’s about right but have you tried with an air compressor? If you’re running 18psi (looked on your mod list) I would defiantly get a fcd just to be on the safe side and take your other sensor back to parts store. Some people use both and have good results. A fcd is nothing but a voltage clamp that keeps the ecu from seeing fuel cut. NEVER run your car without something to take care of fuel cut, you will end up blowing your engine.

 

[rstare]

NEVER run your car without something to take care of fuel cut, you will end up blowing your engine.

I have nothing to deal with fuel cut. (I'm not a 95') When I did have an FCD I got fuel cut no matter where I set the adjustment screw. I here there are random anomalies, I must be one of them.

 

[Jeff99GS]

I know you said you're getting the MAP sensor code, but I would also look at your FMU. Make sure that it is doing it's job. Check the Vac and Fuel lines running to it as well.

I would for sure ditch the missing link. When I had a turbo'd 420a that missing link never worked for me.... I got the FCD from VelocitàPaola and It fixed all my problems.

 

[96TurboGS]

I have nothing to deal with fuel cut. (I'm not a 95') When I did have an FCD I got fuel cut no matter where I set the adjustment screw. I here there are random anomalies, I must be one of them.

You may not get it now or a month from now, but you will get it...eventually.

 

[rstare]

You may not get it now or a month from now, but you will get it...eventually.

Like I said, I got fuel cut with the FCD, no matter what the setting. I have been turbo'd for a while and haven't gotten it.
If I'm not getting it now something has to change in order for me to get it, the ecu doesn't just randomly say, "Oh I feel like cutting fuel this time".

 

[Jeff99GS]

Also do a boost leak test. I know it doesn't affect the 420a as much as a 4g63, but if you have a leak in the throttle body gasket or Intake mani/injector it could cause the MAP to read a strange pressure.

A boost leak test is EASY and FREE...so it's worth a try.

 

[Turbizmo]

That's about right but have you tried with an air compressor? If you're running 18psi (looked on your mod list) I would defiantly get a fcd just to be on the safe side and take your other sensor back to parts store. Some people use both and have good results. A fcd is nothing but a voltage clamp that keeps the ecu from seeing fuel cut. NEVER run your car without something to take care of fuel cut, you will end up blowing your engine.

Well i checked it with a compressor and my little valve blew out of the missing link i was like #### cuss i couldn't find the valve but then i found it and i didn't it try it again. I noticed that when my car is cooled like when i barely turn it on its runs great but when it reaches its normal temperature it starts fuel cutting eBay Motors: Turbo FCD Fuel Cut Defender's. 420a, B15, B16, D15, D16 (item 270305476190 end time Nov-24-08 10:15:27 PST) is this a good FCD to get