Need help with turbo

[mitsueclipse2g]

I'm having trouble deciding what to do, I have a 1996 mitsubishi eclipse that I had for a while now. I've read other people's threads where user said to sell your n/t and buy a turbo, but i have decided I want to keep the 420a and turbo it, to be a little bit different. The car is all stock and it has 136,xxx miles on it and it is a 5-speed. The trouble I am having is wether to turbo charge it with that many miles on it or rebuild the motor to be safe and then boost it. I also have some other questions: 1.) Can I use a SBC stage 3 clutch without having the turbo install? 2.) Would it be easier and cheaper to buy the whole turbo kit or buy the pieces together? 3.) If i get a turbo kit will i have to upgrade the fuel system immediately or can i run the stock fuel for a while? 4.) Will I need a full 2.5" exchaust system for the turbo?

 

[TalonESIT]

I'm having trouble deciding what to do, I have a 1996 mitsubishi eclipse that I had for a while now. I've read other people's threads where user said to sell your n/t and buy a turbo, but i have decided I want to keep the 420a and turbo it, to be a little bit different. The car is all stock and it has 136,xxx miles on it and it is a 5-speed. The trouble I am having is wether to turbo charge it with that many miles on it or rebuild the motor to be safe and then boost it. I also have some other questions: 1.) Can I use a SBC stage 3 clutch without having the turbo install? 2.) Would it be easier and cheaper to buy the whole turbo kit or buy the pieces together? 3.) If i get a turbo kit will i have to upgrade the fuel system immediately or can i run the stock fuel for a while? 4.) Will I need a full 2.5" exchaust system for the turbo?

You know about SBC so you must have done some reading, but a lot of your questions have already been answered, just have to do some more research.

You won't know if your engine can handle boost unless you run some tests on it, compression for starters; Unless you already know the overall condition of your engine. Your asking if you should build your motor up for a turbo, or run the turbo on stock components? If you're not strapped on a budget then you should definitely build the bottom end, stronger rods, lower compression pistons, rings. You should also change your timing belt and pulleys at that mileage. Your top end should hold up just fine, depending on your overall power goal. If you're not going to rebuild then your first concerns are your timing belt and number 4 on your list. Your timing belt because of the obvious, but your fuel is going to have to be carefully monitored (with the appropriate gauges ) and upgraded to avoid detonation.
1)Your SBC clutch will work just fine NT
2)Definitely cheaper to build your own system, http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...uild-420a-stage-2-turbo-kit-under-1000-a.html
3)Yes, the link above shows what your need to upgrade in the fuel system. Your going to need a bigger fuel pump (Walbro 255lph common choice), larger injectors and some type of fuel management unit. FMU and S-FMU are good options for low boost, 5-7psi. When you're ready to step it up for higher boost (depending on the turbo size of course) you can start looking into the portfueler (8-injector setup), or the MSnS with the aid of a 1:1 FPR. The latter would be the best choice, but may be a bit overwhelming seeing as you are just getting your feet wet. Your fuel choice is one of the most important, and most frustrating, parts of your turbo setup. You should definitely read up on the different options.
4) A larger exhaust will provide for better breathing for the turbo, and in turn faster spool to produce more power. The 2 and 1/4 system is very restrictive, but it is not the top priority on the list.

You haven't answered a few questions, what's your budget? Who is doing the work? What kind of turbo do you plan on using for your setup? Any goals in mind? Think about these as well and do some reading!

 

[mitsueclipse2g]

I checked the timing belt on the car and I it seemed in good shape, there aren't any kind of cracks or anything. I do notice once in a while when I start it up I think its the timing belts that squeeks. It only squeeks for a second and sometimes it doesnt when I start it. My overall goal for the car is to have somewhere around 350-400whp, but for now I be satisfied with running 5-8 pounds of boost. I can pretty much do all the work my self, except for the engine building. The turbo I'm mainly looking to use is a big 16g, but the 50 trim seems pretty good too. If I do decide to build the I need to get a core from a junkyard or something, because this car is the only car I currently have. Do you know how much is would cost to built the motor with a .020 bore i know the pistons run about $400-$800.

 

[99RedGs]

Here is a list I am in the progress of filling out to give you an idea on the average prices you will spend. (Atleast what I have been finding):

Block:
• Wiseco Pistons + Rings (8.8.1 .020): 429.99
• Eagle Rods: 309.99
• Clevite 77 Main bearings: 57.99
• Melling High Volume Oil Pump: 129.99
• Clevite Rod Bearings: 39.99
• ARP Head studs: 109.99
• ARP Main studs: 152.99
• Gasket kit: 45.99
Total: $1277

Head:
• SBI PT Cruiser Style Lifter Set: 159.99
• SBI PT Cruiser Style Rocker Arm Set: 159.99
• SBI Valve Guide Set: 59.99
• Felpro Top End Gasket Kit: 119.99
• Crower Valve Spring & Retainer Kit: 269.99
• Cams
Total: $770 (Not including Cams)

Misc:
• Bore cylinders
• Hot tank
• Decking
• Balance rotating assembly

Total:$250

Turbo set-up:
• Turbo Manifold
• Oil feed and return lines
• Wastegate
• Intercooler
• Blow Off Valve
• Couplers and Clamps
• Intercooler Piping
• 3" Down pipe
• Turbo

Transmission:
• Clutch ( TZ or OFE Series South Bend Clutch) (South Bend Clutch - DXD High Performance Clutches)
• LSD

Fuel and Tuning:
• Hahn Portfueler or PNP Ms (if it ever comes out)
• Harblo 255l Fuel pump
• Wideband O2
• Injectors (size depends on goal and setup)

Gauges:
• Boost
• Oil Pressure
• AFR


Again, This list is just a list in progress. I have only specifically listed a few items with their prices, while others are generic parts without prices that I will need, but have not yet determined which way I want to go. (disclaimer before I have people telling me to be more specific) Hope this gives you a better idea.

Oh yeah, and add about $200-300 to whatever total you end up with because I can gaurantee you will have forgotten about misc bolts, fittings, couplers, etc... the small stuff.

 

[moouse80]

What do you guys think of doing a 420A Turbo stoker w/ 9.1 compression?
I know that the Boost would be limited, but I would like your opinions.

 

[Flipboi89]

strokers dont last too long from what ive heard especially when you boost it high

 

[LD25Delta9]

strokers dont last too long from what ive heard especially when you boost it high

I agree. The only way I've heard of 2.2's holding massive boost is getting all your block's internals coated. But then again when your talking throwing massive amounts of boost at ANYTHING, you're looking at needing many spare parts, often. Reliability goes right out the window when you're goin 200mph. I'd leave the compression down at 8.4-8.6 But that's just my opinion.

As for the OP's question: Red's got the goods. The only thing I would do different is talk to Modernperformance.com about the head rebuild or Howellautomotive.com You can usually find all of that stuff together with cams and gears for about the same price. I think howell has AEM tru-time gears and MP has Fidanza. He hit the nail on the head. And instead of felpro you get a cometic head gasket.

 

[Locke]

A stroker's ability to handle boost (power) is more in the quality of build and tune, than the fact that it is stroked or not. A 2.2 stroker will have a lower rev limit than a 2.0 of equal build, due to its greater rod angle. (harmonics, side loading, piston G's, &c...)

The compression you decide to use will depend on your goals, method and level of charge cooling, availability of fuels, and ability to tune. High CR makes more power in and out of boost, and will spool the turbo faster, but leaves a smaller tuning window.

Mark B. is building a 10.5:1CR air-water intercooled 2.0L and reports 0 counts of knock at 22psi. This is his daily driver.