[RESOLVED] Are these valves alright to put back... [bought new set]
420A Bolt-on TechIntake, exhaust, ignition, fuel system, cooling, etc - specific to 2G N/T DSMs. New Members must limit their 420A tech posts to this forum.
[RESOLVED] Are these valves alright to put back... [bought new set]
There is minor pitting on my exhaust valves and I was wondering if I could still use them.
The motor and parts are still relatively new, only about 20,000-25,000 miles
sorry if it's hard to tell but my concerns are around the edges
On that last picture how do I get all that gunk off? I've soaked the valves in seafoam for 2 days and those still will not come off... Thank you in advance
Had white smoke shooting out my exhaust so I took off my head to replace the HG and Valve seals. Like I stated earlier The motor/head and parts are relatively new. I can get a micrometer to check the valve margin, but before I go and grab that I just wanted to ask if it looks like there is too much pitting... Thanks for such a prompt response.
Well if you rebuilt the motor then why reuse these shity valves?
Because I don't know what are considered "shity valves" which is why I made this thread in the first place; and before I spend a grip on a whole new set of valves I wanted to know if this was normal wear or not.
Allow me to to clarify once more, I am NOT rebuilding the motor. The motor IS pretty NEW only about 20-25k miles. I had white smoke coming from out of the exhaust so I pulled the head off to replace the HG and valve seals because I thought those may be the problem. Im not rebuliding the head which is why I asked if I need to replace these valves
Well I ordered a set of supertechs to replace these. Hopefully i'll have better luck with them...
White smoke is coolant it has nothing to do with valve seals, is has to do with the block, head surface or the turbo.
Yeah I bought a new MLS mitsu HG, but since the head was off I figured I might as well change the valve seals, and since the exhaust valves had so much pitting, even though it wasn't on the stem, I just ordered a new set made for turbos.
This was my original issue
I wanna make sure I do this right so I'm changing the valve seals, headstuds and valves just in case. I don't plan to change my cams or cam gears which is why I'm sticking to the stock valve springs. Just want to get my car back on the road in healthy condition.
i would send the head to the machine shop the reseat those valves and also to reasurface the head. and the will clean them and check the head for cracks. because of all that white smoke.
one question that i have is did the car ever overheat?
is the block biult. it looks like forged pistons?
i would send the head to the machine shop the reseat those valves and also to reasurface the head. and the will clean them and check the head for cracks. because of all that white smoke.
one question that i have is did the car ever overheat?
is the block biult. it looks like forged pistons?
No overheating, no pits in the head's valves seats, built motor bottom end. But in that video I had stock head studs. If there were a good crack in the head, the car definately would have started to overheat or I would have visible leaks somewhere, but I didn't
you wont really see the crack, it could be hidden. only the machine shop could determine that. i belive they use a test called magnaflux.
that always worried me becaue i have almost the same set up. i have a pisston/ rod combo. with stock head/ head gasket. i have been boostin 10-14 psi and no problem. the possibilty of blowing the stock head gasket is their.