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Pring

15+ Year Contributor
50
0
Dec 20, 2007
Bristolville, Ohio
Hey all, I'm new here. My car quit on me in the middle of an intersection. It has gas.
And it just cranks over a hundred time with no fire. I've checked and there is no juice to the coil pack.. Any ideas. What is in between there that could be breaking the circuit. I'd be thankful for any help.
 
Hey all, I'm new here. My car quit on me in the middle of an intersection. It has gas.
And it just cranks over a hundred time with no fire. I've checked and there is no juice to the coil pack.. Any ideas. What is in between there that could be breaking the circuit. I'd be thankful for any help.

Either your ignition module (transistor pack) or ECU took a poopy. Throwing any CEL's?


Joe
SBR
 
Sorry, I'm a newbie. What is a CEL.. And where is my transistor pack located? How can I check to see if my computer took a shit? thanks
 
CEL is an acronymn for "Check Engine Light". The transistor pack is mounted on the drivers side of the intake manifold. As far as checking the computer.. I usually just replace it. You could check at the transistor pack to see if the ecu is sending the signal. Good Luck.

On a side note.. anyone know what portion of the ecu is crapping out when the ecu stops producing the spark signal? It seems rediculusly common. Certain caps, transistors, solder points..etc?
 
CEL = Check Engine Light

This is a little warning light near your gauges that will either say "Check Engine" or "Service Engine Soon". If you see that light on all the time, go to Autozone and they can read the code using a tool they have.
 
Ha that light has been on for a long time. What does a computer cost? And what are the chances that it went bad ? Is the trasistor pack a common problem for alot of you guys or no?
 
Have Autzone read the code for your CEL and report back here with what they say.
 
Transistor pack is on intake manifold right below the coil pack. To check to see if ECU is bad, just remove it from behind the center consel (you must revove the felt panels of either side of it.) Once its out take the 4 screws out holding the cover on and look for anythingthing leaking out of the 3 bigger capacitors on the motherboard, also its a dead giveaway if it has a strong "fishy" smell coming from it. Thats the smell of the acid leaking out of the caps. Ill try and find you a good pic of what im talking about so you know.

Joe
SBR

Is this information all for a 2g n/t?
 
Does the juice from the coilpack come from the ECU or does it come from the ignition. I contacted the local dealer and they told me that they think that it comes straight from the ignition. That would rule out the ECU being the problem, correct?

Iam not certain of what 2g is. i know it is a 97 2.0 Gs Mitsu Eclipse. N/T I hope that helps. What in the vehicle description makes you have a different opinion?
 
2g means 2nd generation. This refers to 1995-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipses / Eagle Talons.

The information SBR Joe gave was for a turbo car. The n/t and turbo engines are completely different.
 
OH I see.. Well yes It is a "2g" and do you guys still have any idea. I'm stuck for a car. Can't drive the M in the winter time.
 
OH I see.. Well yes It is a "2g" and do you guys still have any idea. I'm stuck for a car. Can't drive the M in the winter time.

I would bet that whatever the check engine light was for is the root of whatever your problem may be. If you can get your hands on an OBD II code reader it will probably lead you, or give us a better idea what exactly went wrong with your car.


Joe
SBR
 
again there is no power to the coil pack. What is the next test I have to run to get to the bottom of this ?

Well the problem at hand is the fact that I can't drive to AutoZone/Napa and have them run the diagnostic on my car. It will not start so I'm kinda stuck here until I get another lead.
 
If your car has a decent amount of miles on it, I would say that it could be the crank position sensor. That tells your ecu when its getting the correct signal and tells your coil packs when to produce spark. My bet is on that. For your non-turbo, its underneath the car behind the transmission and has 3 wires coming out of it. It's held in by one 10mm bolt. Easy to do and costs about $80. Get someone with a OBDII scanner and find out what codes the car is kicking. My money is on the Crank Position Sensor
 
well when I bought the car the motor was replaced with a used motor with 40K on it I have no idea if the components were replaced along with the motor. If not then they should have somewhere aroudn 156K. Sounds like that couldbe a posibility.
 
It's not a sensor problem if you are not receiving power to pin #2 of the coilpack. The 420a (Engine used in the 2g NT) does not employ an igniter, and the ignition is controlled directly by the ECU - no ignition module.

The coilpack's B+ (pin #2) is inline with the ASD relay. The ECU provides a ground path to pins 1 & 3 to fire the coil. Check the ASD relay for function and power, and all under-hood fuses. Inspect for this: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/420a-bolt-tech/259892-wire-harness-melted-against-egr-pipe.html.
 
Yeah, I would definately have that checked out then just to be on the safe side. You don't have to pull anything else off to get the CPS out, it's really easy on your car. It's a high possibility that the CPS is the culprit. Let us know how you make out.
 
I checked the power to the coil pack and as soon as I turn on the ignition it has power. The power to the coil is present until the fuel pump shut off. As in when you turn the key to the on position. There is power at the coil until the fuel pump stops twirrling. The ASD seems to be functioning properly after applying power and testing the ohmage.

Also is there anywhere possible that the black and red wire should have continuity with a ground ?

I just had a mechanic come to my house with a $6000 dollar scanner that is supposed to do whatever you guys say that autozone should be able to do. It comes up that there is an error on the cam shaft sensor and some others that he said probably weren't that big a deal. We came to the conclusion that something is telling the ASD to ot turn back on when the car is cranking over.
How muchdoes a computer cost and how much of a pain in the ass is it gonna be to get one? Because I'm banking on it that my computer took a shit.
 
Pins 1 & 3 on the coilpack should have a pulsing ground while cranking. If one pin has a pulsing ground, and the other does not, check the cam sensor and it's wiring. Pin 2 (B+) will have battery voltage when on.

The ECU is extremely easy to replace in the 2gnt, it is in the engine bay on the driver side. It is listed in the Wiki i linked you to earlier. The ECU on 96+ 2gnt's seldom goes bad, though.
 
how expensive is a computer? is there any reprogramming or anything that needs to be done
?

Also... How do I test for a pulsating ground. How do I hook up the test light ?
 
I'm not sure how much a factory ECU goes for. May try 2gnt.com classifieds. There is no reprogramming, or anything of that sort, for the ECU.

I doubt the ground is there long enough to light a test light, but you could try. I would use a multimeter to check for voltage between pins 1 & 2 and 2 & 3 on the harness, or you could check resistance between the signal pins and ground. Either should fluctuate noticeably.
 
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