The car is finished but still has problems

[link16]

I have everything wired correctly and done up perfectly, when I go WOT my car revs to 4.5k and jolts and the boost gauge reads just over 10lbs on a 15lb spring. I think it is fuel cut but I have never felt fuel cut. My autometer gauge is reading lean at WOT. I will be calling Hahn's tomorrow but I wanted to know if anyone had any ideas.

 

[BigRand]

you check your FDC? What kind of map sensor are you running on now?

 

[link16]

There are different types of map sensors? I have one that came with my Jasper engine from the junkyard. I have Paul's FCD. My problem is not boost level specific, as I had an 8lb spring with the same problem. I think it is the Hahn kit acting up, but I don't know. I cannot WOT at all, the car gives no response to it and leans out. I can only partial throttle everything, the narrowband A/F says lean. When WOT with turbo and the hahn kit should go pig rich. Also, the tech guy a while ago said that if the hahn kit worked, if i unhooked the hahn from a vacuum source the engine should bog, this is not the case with my engine.

I will contact them monday and see if they can replace the module for me. Any other troubleshooting would be great too. Thanks guys.

 

[BigRand]

sounds like a problem with either the porterfuler not recieving the signal to kick on the extra injectors (meaning a vac lean is loose somewhere) double check everything on the fuel side of your car and make sure everything is installed correctly and nothing is installed backwards.

 

[link16]

Everything is installed correctly, we ran through it with a fine tooth comb. I think the portfueler is effed up because the tech said that if I disconnected the vac line to the portfueler brain the engine should bog at idle, and it makes no difference. I will call them monday, but I might be looking into a different fuel setup...

 

[Blitzeclips]

Using a narrowband isn't the best idea for that.

Did it come with the module? Or did you just bolt on the plate and injectors? What are you using to increase feul pressure?

 

[dr1665]

You keep saying "The tech said..." Is this support at HRC? If HRC is saying the engine should bog in the absence of vacuum, I would suspect this means that the Portfueler is taking a lack of vacuum as the onset of boost, in which case it would be activating the secondaries, resulting in near flooding conditions (bog).

Not sure if you had supplemental instructions, but here's a link to an in-depth installation write up that might be worth reading through. Looks pretty detailed, imo, although I didn't read beyond the second page. Since you've got at least a day before you can call Hahn (singular, HANS is a head/neck restraint system used in racing), it might be worth going through someone else's install instructions to see if something jumps out at you.

Here's another link to some install pictures/discussion on 2GNT.

EDIT:

Using a narrowband isn't the best idea for that.

Most definitely agreed. I'd also suggest not making any boost at all until you've got this issue resolved. You're definitely getting fuel cut - if not the ECU dropping the injectors, the turbo leaning out things too far. You're dangerously close to scattering your engine...

What are you using to increase feul pressure?

Again, agreed.

 

[Blitzeclips]

I'd also suggest not making any boost at all until you've got this issue resolved. You're dangerously close to scattering your engine...

Thats exactly what I wanted to say, but I tend to get chewed up on this site about anything like that(opinion on general welfare of the motor). So I bit my tongue this time. But I strongly agree.

 

[link16]

I have everything that comes with a stage 4 HRC portfueler setup. I have the Aeromotive FPR, the HRC module the second rail and 48lb high impedence injectors and the autometer tach adapter. My fuel pressure is set to 50psi at idle, like Hahn says. I have read the entire link of "How-to" and it is pretty close to the actual Hahn instructions that I had.

 

[link16]

I just looked at something and noticed my MAP sensor is off of an IM that had the stock FPR on the fuel rail. Does that matter at all?

 

[Blitzeclips]

I just looked at something and noticed my MAP sensor is off of an IM that had the stock FPR on the fuel rail. Does that matter at all?

Depending on the year and application the sensor was made for. I don't see why it would change anything, but I'm pretty sure not all MAP sensor are the same. Thus 95's not needing them versus 96+ do need them. But, again, I'm not %100 sure. I'd wait for Paul to chime in. He makes those FCDs so I'd imagine he knows a thing or two about the MAP.

 

[4UH8ERS]

Depending on the year and application the sensor was made for. I don't see why it would change anything, but I'm pretty sure not all MAP sensor are the same. Thus 95's not needing them versus 96+ do need them. But, again, I'm not %100 sure..

Uhh..95's do need a MAP sensor just to clear things up .

I think you meant to say the 95's don't need the fcd or missing link.

 

[BigRand]

correct....95's do need a map sensor. You might consider getting a hold of a volt meter and checking to see if your map sensor is damaged or the FCD was installed incorrectly.

Your already trying to put a clamp down on the stock map sensor, but If there is something missing or its not reading correctly at all then that could very well be your misfortune the whole time.

 

[link16]

The whole thing is checked out. My Portfueler negative wire was grounded to the engine (don't ask why I did not wire the Portfueler initially) and it should be connected directly to the frame or by popular demand to the battery's negative. Everything is working fine, except I had a couple rubber couplers that came with my ebay turbo/intercooler kit, and at 15lbs I literally exploded a 90* coupler off of the intake side of the intercooler. I will post pics in the pics thread soon. Thanks guys for everything.

 

[BigRand]

except I had a couple rubber couplers that came with my ebay turbo/intercooler kit, and at 15lbs I literally exploded a 90* coupler off of the intake side of the intercooler.

T-bolts and real couplers

 

[VelocitàPaola]

hitempsilicone.com + eBay T-bolts... the only way to go.

Sorry I didn't jump in sooner, I've been travelling on business. Glad you got everything fixed, though!

 

[link16]

www.mandrelbendingsolutions.com <----cheapest AS intercooler piping around, I got 2 AS U-bends with 12" legs for $25 each, and I picked up my 6-ply silicone 90*'s today for $24 each.

Big problem now tho, this fun little "new" turbo I have well, I have lost a quart of oil in about 80miles to the turbo, and it is all going into my intercooler piping, causing my car to lean out before I hit 0 hg of vacuum and before my portfueler can piss fuel to keep my car running. HORRAY FOR EBAY!! Anyone have any nice places to either inexpensively reman my turbo or buy an inexpensive nice turbo, I currently am running a 5-bolt T3/T4 57 trim. Let me know, thanks guys.

 

[Locke]

Glue didn't hold up very well, eh?? Teasing.

Considered a quality rebuild kit?

 

[Shadow98]

You can get a brand new T3 turbo from treadstoneperformance.com for around $500.

 

[BigRand]

www.cheapturbos.com

You can get some intersting things on here for about $620, deals that should cost more than that brand spanking new.

 

[Blitzeclips]

Super 20G.

 

[link16]

Super 20G.

How much do they usually run? I need to stay under $600.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

More than $600, and the turbine housing won't be 5-bolt either.

 

[link16]

Right now I have a guy at www.gpopshop.com looking at some stuff for me and seeing if he can get any decent prices. Who knows. I got a second opinion today, and the guy said to tune my FCD to 4.50v and than get a new turbo and I should run primo, He also showed me a RS with a 4G63 in it. I couldn't believe it but it was there. Anyways, I'll keep you all posted as soon as I know.

 

[link16]

I think I am getting a remanned Garrett T04b; Compressor Wheel - 48mm inducer (minor), 70mm exducer (mayor)
Exhaust Housing - T3 A/R .63
Exhaust Wheel - Stage 1, 45mm exducer (minor), and 58mm inducer (mayor)

If the guy takes my offer, I offered him $450. Who knows.