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Looking For The Clips That Hold The Injectors

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bpage020602

Probationary Member
26
0
Oct 10, 2006
Tampa, Florida
i AM LOOKING FOR THE CLIPS THAT HOLD THE INJECTORS ON THE FUEL RAIL, FOR THE 420A.. i LOST ONE WHEN up-grading to the 550cc injectors....
 
So go to the dealer and buy one...

Mitsubishi part #:
M04418257

Chrysler part #:
04418257AB

They can't be more than a dollar or two.
 
would like to buy online then to make a trip to dealer..... anyone know a site that sells them..
 
I am also looking for that oil pan that has the turbo connection on it...anyone know where to get it...
 
bpage020602 said:
I am also looking for that oil pan that has the turbo connection on it...anyone know where to get it...

If you mean an oil pan w/fitting welded in for the return line then you're gonna have to have it done to your own pan, or buy one used off of somebody that has had it done. But that's a shot in the dark

^^^ WELL you totally just proved me wrong while I was posting
 
another one

i got the 16g and need the oil supply line with a tap or whatever to get it from the safest place on the motor or near the filter, also the inline filter if recommended... Also need the return line....

and must say u supply cheaper prices then the things i am able to find....
 
Home Depot plumbing department...
3/8" NPT Brass Tee
3/8" NPT Brass Nipple
3/8" (male) NPT - 1/8" (female) NPT Brass Reducer
1/8" (male) NPT - 1/4" (male) Flare Adapter
3/8" (male) NPT - 1/8" (female) NPT - if you're using an aftermarket oil pressure gauge.

Then, go to Summit.com or otherwise and pick up a piece of 3' (2' should actually be enough) 4-AN SS braided hose.

You might need a 4-AN (male) - 1/4" NPT 90* bend on the turbo side of this setup. I don't know, it depends on your turbo.

That's it. No inline filter required.
 
Don't forget to use TEFLON!!!

Also, TIGHTEN EVERYTHING VERY VERY WELL. I installed my sending unit assembly while under the car using teflon. After all the problems I ran into, and after all the tuning I had done, I noticed at idle, when the car was stopped, that oil was drizzling ever so slighty... It was the feed line assembly. Which meant I had to juck the car up and re-do the entire assembly again.

So I pulled it all off, unscrewed every fitting and sensor, and tore all the teflon off the threads. I cleaned it all using brake cleaner so no oil could creep into the threads...

Well, I put these fittings on a lock bench and tried tightening them again.. I learned that I had tightened them only 1/2 way on the threads. I used an adjustable wrech and tightened everything again.

I literally left 1/2 the threads open because I thought these fitting were tight enough. You need to put some MUSCLE into these things or else you'll have a leak.
 
ok the return line is simple, now where should i attach the oil supply line, and how??
 
bpage020602 said:
ok the return line is simple, now where should i attach the oil supply line, and how??

You need to find the Oil pressure sending unit located in the back of your block. It's the sensor all the way to the left. You'll know it what is it when you pull it off, there is a clear film overtop a plug looking thing, that should still have remnants of oil in it.

You need a 27mm deep socket for this. Also, you'll need to find the correct fitting (Velo listed above) and re-attach the sending unit, along with your feed line and the unit that came with your OIL PRESSURE gauge. I hope you are using one of those...

You should've researched this stuff dude.
 
Alright... I could see that a few diagrams were needed so I just threw these together. Here is how my oil lines are setup. I also included a variation, if you wanted to keep your stock sending unit instead of the aftermarket sender. Keep in mind that there is more than one way to do this, but this is how I have mine set up. I also made a few color-coded copies so it would be easier to see the individual pieces. Chris's $1000 Turbsystem writeup has some good pictures of a way to set everything up if you want both your stock oil pressure sending unit, and a sender for an aftermarket gauge.
 
Paul is such a slacker.... :toobad:


What if I want my autometer gauge and my factory opsu :p
 
started putting things together and having a problem..The evo 16g doesnt fit correct. I can get it to bolt up but the hot side of the turbo the bolts up to the exhaust is in the wrong direction "up" instead of down to connect to the downpipe. I know i could take it to a exhaust shop and have them mod the stupid o2 housing to go the rite way, but does anyone know of one i could buy that is already the correct direction...

Also how hard is it going to be to get the the safc to control those 550cc injectors.
 
As far as I know, you won't be able to use that o2 housing on our 420a applications because the turbo is mounted differently than a 4g63. You will probably need to buy an exhaust flange for that turbo and either take it to an exhaust shop to make you a downpipe or do it yourself with a welder and some 2.5 in. mandrel bends.
 
bpage020602 said:
Also how hard is it going to be to get the the safc to control those 550cc injectors.

I highly doubt the safc alone will be sufficient enough to control 550cc. Your going to have to drop your static fp very low in order to even start messing with the safc. With all honesty, and not trying to be negative, your not going to be very happy with the safc as part of your fuel setup. It really doesn't work that well with our cars.

Will you be running an FMU or SFMU?
 
I dont have a SFMU I got the fcd and safc. If i cant use this damn safc then someone want to trade for the sfmu.....
 
Definitely ditch the SAFC. If you can't find anyone to trade, fork out the cash for the SFMU. Check 2gnt and see if you can find someone selling a used one. They usually go for about $150.
 
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