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NA tuning Guide, Lets update a bit.

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Damn 2nd Gear

15+ Year Contributor
231
0
Jan 26, 2004
Pacific, Washington
Let me start off by saying that in no way am i one of the most knowledgable peeps in the forums. i have been haning around for quite awhile now soaking up info and spreading wehat i know in the best way i can. im hoping that through this thread we NA guys can post a collection of knowledge so that new people no longer have to search through tens nad hundreds of posts to get the knowledge that they need. we will be able to direct them to this thread and maybe an updated tuning guide.


Curently there are 4 steps in the 1g NA tuning guide over at
http://dsmtuners.com/tuning-guide/1gnt/

Well to start and im hoping that more peropple will add to this and correct me if i am wrong. as a first step i would first head over to the Tech Articles section for write ups on some common and not so common modifications. these will give a good idea of hwo to do things the easy way usually. http://dsmtuners.com/tech.php

Step 1 - Intake (CAI or Short Ram)
Free Mods - Air Can Modifications located at http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/BradBauer/engine/K&NMod.html
Buidget Minded - If on a budget a Drop in K&N filter is the most reccomended choice.

CAI option - For my car i used a 94-00 Integra intake from Autozone, it was $40. then i used 3 Fernco 3inch couplers which are about 6$ each and i got a 3inch 90" bend ABS pipe for about 5$ all at home depot in the plumbing section. now i cut off the ends of the ABS pips and put couplers on and viola, CAI. it dont hang beloy the car either. word of advice tho is to angle the sensor plug so you can plug it in easy, it WILL reach, but you may beed a 3rd arm to help out. till i make mounting brackets im using bungie cords to stabilize it. if you use the gm maft and translator you may need 1 more coupler. total about 70$ plus a filter.

you can also buy a name brand intake like injen, for around 200$depending on location.

those are the basics for intake, to take it a step further you could purchase a intake kit from http://www.punishmentracing-na.com/intake.html and then grab a GM maft from ebay for about 60$ and have almost no intake restriction.




thats about all i can come up with for now i have to get ready for work. add anything i may be missing.
 
I applaud your effort guys, making life a little easier not only for fellow 1g n/t owners but the mods as well. I hope you guys don;t mind i am going to do the same for the 2g n/t, Keep up the good work :D
 
list should be fairly easy. we dont have half as much BS in our engine bay as turbo guys
 
Once I get my logger cable, I'm going to do a fuel/DSM Translator tuning guide for us n/a fellas. I think na90dsm would be the perfect guy to do a section on cam selection and putting together a stroker motor.
 
my next one will be about exhaust, im working weird hours right now so sleep iks of the essence. so tomarrow afternoon ill post a bunch of just about exhaust as well as my ecperiences with ny setup. can anyone post a good apexi and greedy one?
 
i am the stroker guru. :laugh:

the exhaust i can help with as well. i got a few good setups i thought of the will be able to be customized with any universal muffler. also we can run gst 2.5 exhaust now thanx to those badass guys at punishment racing
 
Ok, I've just taken a break from putting the header on. Broke 3 header studs. Actually 2 of them were already broke. Bolting up the downpipe should be a breeze. I haven't gotten to that point yet though. Right now, I still have to unbolt the downpipe from the cat. You also might want to wait to remove the O2 sensor after you get the stock manifold out of the car. It's just easier that way. You can then screw it into the new shiny header. Oh, the bolt holes on the downpipe are slotted. That way it will mate up to the stock cat without a problem.
 
take the 0s sensors otu first, if nto itll drop down when unbolted and stretch the wires and possibly screw somethign up with the wiring. yes ive seen it happen.

the 2 bolts where the stock manifold meets the dp will break. every one i have ever taken off have broken. they heat up a lot and just loose stregnth. if they dotn break they will spin right otu by using a box wrench on the top of the bolt and a socket with a few extensions on the bottom.

sorry im a driveway mechanic. thats how i get it done
 
well for exhaust from what i under stand the free'er the flow the better, to an extent. with people that i know it seems that makingg everything all the way back is best. going from small to larger acts as a trumpet by amplifing noise while going from large to small chokes it, hurting performance. 3 inch on a NA is over kill.

stock is 2 inch inside diameter for the NA while gst/x is 2 1/4 stock.

i have 2 1/4 mandrel bent with a flowmaster muffler and hollowed out cat. its 2 1/4 from the header back. personally id reccoment against a high flow muffler in favor of a straight thru muffler. my flowmaster started rattling after 1 month. i thinks its teh core that has come loose. i knoticed my largest gain with the cat gutted, but if i could have done it again i would have gotten a straight pipe and saved the cat for smog. i went with custom exhaust from buckeys, cost 225$ even.

2 1/2 inch, some people say its perfect while others say its too much. its prolly be a good thing if you are building up your engine internally to flow more. anyone got more info on 2 1/2?
 
na90dsm said:
take the 0s sensors otu first, if nto itll drop down when unbolted and stretch the wires and possibly screw somethign up with the wiring. yes ive seen it happen.

the 2 bolts where the stock manifold meets the dp will break. every one i have ever taken off have broken. they heat up a lot and just loose stregnth. if they dotn break they will spin right otu by using a box wrench on the top of the bolt and a socket with a few extensions on the bottom.

sorry im a driveway mechanic. thats how i get it done

I unplugged the o2 from the main harness. It wasn't a problem when it dropped out. I did have to unbolt the downpipe from the manifold. But, I didn't break a bolt from the downpipe to the old manifold. I'm saving those pieces for the smog folks. Right now, everything's out. I just can't get the old o2 sensor off. I hit it with some pb blaster (don't know what that will do to the sensor), and I'm going to try again in a few hours.
 
2 1/4 is good for a barely tuned n/a motor. 2 1/2 will work for anything over full exhaust wires,intake,and soemother minor things. once you get into cams and head work you should go 2 1/2
 
na90dsm said:
list should be fairly easy. we dont have half as much BS in our engine bay as turbo guys


where did u hear dat? i never really noticed nt's were THAT much less complicated. however, in my opinion, the engine bays on the nt's are kinda stupidly made. at least my friends gs 97, the belts are constantly runnin into other parts of the engine compartment... for cryin out loud...


:dsm: :dsm: :dsm:
 
thats on a 2g, 2g comoartments are cluster F$%^#.

1g has leik nothign in there. if we take off our egr, aftermarket intake manifold,all we really have other then motor itself is intake. we can get our intake manifolds out easy, everythign is right there.

my old car was clean in the engine bay. had mass room for everything. this car im moving the battery in the trunk,no cruise control, no a/c. i want nothign but what is needed
 
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