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Wire tucking around intake manifold: what can and can't be deleted? (Pt.2)

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Never lengthened wires before. Do I just cut the wire and solder another wire to it to lengthen it?

Thanks for getting in here Lofty. I need A/C and power steering. But I'm considering removing my ABS. Should I do the battery first though?


Yes. Make a mechanical bond with the two wires by twisting them together. Put flux on them. Melt the solder on the tip of the gun. Touch the tip with the solder to the wire, it will suck in all the solder. That's how I do it, and it works.


Again, if you just have a street car there are easier ways of going about a battery relocation. I did mine the way I did to be in par with sanctioned rules. If you just drive on the street you can do what I pmmed you to do.
 
Okay well I just finished my temporary wire tuck and so far so good! My car started up just fine, no CELs were thrown or anything. Snowborder, I just bolted the cable back down and got it back in the bracket just how it used to be and it ran just fine. I don't understand how to adjust it.

Do you think electrical tape will be enough to keep the heat of the intake manifold from damaging the wires? Cause I wrapped all my wires with electrical tape. The ones that were exposed after taking off the loom I mean.

Anyways here are some pics

Before EGR delete:
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After EGR delete/before wire tuck:
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After EGR delete and wire tuck:
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Also, I could not find any spot to mount the power transistor so I mounted it here LOL:
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Maybe when I start getting to the ABS delete, I'll have more room cause it bugs me at that spot. But like I said, this is a temporary wire tuck :).

I wanted to get everything else done so I could get the car running and get it up on the driveway so I can extend the wires for the power transistor with a solder to mount it somewhere else.

What do you guys think?
 
Looks much better!

Interesting use for the engine hoist bracket.


To adjust throttle cable:
1. Loosen bolts holding bracket to intake manifold.
2. Pull bracket backwards (away from throttle body) to tension throttle cable. This should be done so it has no slack, but does not start to open throttle body.
3. Tighten down bolts holding bracket to intake manifold.
 
LOL thank you man I really appreciated the walk through!:thumb:

Now I'm contemplating what to do first between battery relocation or ABS delete.

And thank you for the easy instructions. When I did bolt it back down, I just bolted it back exactly where I saw the washers that left the markings on the bracket :p

I know it's an easy way out but it seemed to have worked. But I guess I have to buy a new gasket and take off the intake piping to actually check it.. Ugh what a pain..
 
Looks good, keep it up. You 2g guys dong have near the amount of room as us 1g guys do..
 
As I mentioned before, you don't need to take off the intercooler pipe. Just watch the shaft/throttle cable bracket. You can even take off the TPS and watch the shaft on that end to see if it starts to rotate.

Placing it back down in the same spot is a pretty safe first guess if you don't know what to do or can't.

I'd say battery relocation before ABS delete. Do you not like ABS, or just don't want it because it takes up space? Do you plan on doing any racing? That could influence your decision.
 
I thought that option was only before I took off the cable. Hmm I'm trying to picture what you mean but am having a hard time. If the shaft on the TPS end rotates, does that mean the throttle plate is opening? Do you have a picture of this shaft?

It felt like a pretty safe bet but I'm a perfectionist so I have to make sure.

As for ABS, it seems a lot of people delete it because no one seems to like it. I've heard people say it's not ideal for road racing (which is something I plan to do) but then I also heard that's a myth. I think there was a website (Autocross to Win) that debunked the myth. Not sure though.

Battery relocation it is. That's probably gonna be a part 3 of my thread as idk where to begin and I think it can help others along the way.
 
You can barely see one of the two tabs that are under the TPS (the other one is really hard to distinguish between the background, but it's there). Look on the right side above the bottom bolt for the little gold tabs that sticks out. The shaft you can see that runs through the middle is threaded on both ends. The tabbed piece is bolted on one end under the TPS and the throttle cable bracket is bolted on top of the springs to the other side.

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Damn it looks good and i just pulled my engine so i can do a full shave and tuck. I have some researching to do but im going to take my time on this one
 
You can barely see one of the two tabs that are under the TPS (the other one is really hard to distinguish between the background, but it's there). Look on the right side above the bottom bolt for the little gold tabs that sticks out. The shaft you can see that runs through the middle is threaded on both ends. The tabbed piece is bolted on one end under the TPS and the throttle cable bracket is bolted on top of the springs to the other side.

Okay I can barely see that shaft but I'm sure the one I'm referring to is the same as the one you were referring to. So if it rotates at all, that means the throttle plate is opening correct? Do I just try to get it to a point where it stops rotating?

Damn it looks good and i just pulled my engine so i can do a full shave and tuck. I have some researching to do but im going to take my time on this one

Lucky! My long term dream is to do the same and rewire my whole engine bay. You should do it! Take your time and research! I really hope this thread helped you out. I have a part 1 that was for emissions delete if you haven't attempted that already :).
 
Okay I can barely see that shaft but I'm sure the one I'm referring to is the same as the one you were referring to. So if it rotates at all, that means the throttle plate is opening correct? Do I just try to get it to a point where it stops rotating?

There's two different things. There are the "tongs" (if you will) that go under the TPS. The shaft is the main shaft that runs through the throttle body. The one with the two screws in it.
 
:ohdamn:

Wow that was stupid of me! Okay so do I just make sure that it doesn't rotate at all? Or basically pull the cable to a point right before it starts to rotate correct?
 
Pull the cable taught and see if it starts to rotate. If so, then go with "right before it starts to rotate". But I don't think it will that easily, so just go with taught.

Not quite sure how to better word this, as I seem to not be explaining it well. Although it's not a hard concept at all.
 
Alright I will give it a shot next time I get the time to work on my car.

You're explaining it fine I just have a hard time understanding since this is my first car and I'm not mechanically inclined but working on it LOL.
 
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