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Any thoughts on the FP TD05H 20g?

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There is an 8cm² TD05h version of the T3 housing as well that might be a good compromise between the two. The only issue is finding one.

Maybe someone who is better at finding things than I am knows where to get one. I've been looking for one for a while, but no luck. My problem is that I'm more or less stuck with the T3/syty housing setup, but I'd like to run a TD05h turbine (currently a TD06/8cm² housing). It's not what I'd call "laggy" but better response would be a good thing, and I'm on E85 so there's no real issue with needing more boost to get the same power.

Part number for the 8cm housing is 78-14200. The only application I know of for sure that it was used on was the HKS 16g kit for the 3SGTE. The part number suggests it's from the same casting lot as the 10cm² housings, since all the TD06 housings begin with 79-1xxxx. I've even considered machining an insert out of inconel to allow the 05 wheel to fit in an 06 housing, since those are readily available.

Anyone know how the 20g/TD05h-10cm² spools relative to the 20g/TD06-8cm²? (does anyone even use the latter on DSMs?) I see 20psi by 3500rpm on the TD06.

It's also possible to open up the wastegate section of the housing for better flow too if using the internal gate:
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The syty guys report pretty noticeable gains, though it requires a new DP flange and some fab work.

I dunno but how is that thing suppose to seal properly with the wastegate on one end, and 3 bolts on the other??? If you used a copper gasket, it'd get burned out in no time. Burned, burnt, whatever.
 

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LOL I for got about this thread re read my post and saw were the confusion between myself and paul started, in my post 37 that should of been internal gate not external.

I want to run it externally gated and with the adaptor i would of been stuck internally. Sorry for the confusion.

On a side note I picked up a sbr cast mani with the 38mm wastegate prov. that leaves me some room to play with the 7cm housing and possibly do the adaptor plate with 10cm at a later date. Thanks again paul
 
Did anyone end up using this with a 16G housing? Would be very interested to know their thoughts on it as I'm considering it as a sleeper turbo for my Evo III.
 
Did anyone end up using this with a 16G housing? Would be very interested to know their thoughts on it as I'm considering it as a sleeper turbo for my Evo III.
It's the same 20G that has been used for years. That in mind, MANY people have used this with a 16G housing....approximately 90% of DSM 20G users, in fact.
 
Oh, my bad. A bit of a dumb question; didn't know that. Had a T04B 50-trim on my old Evo and was wondering how this 20G with a 16G housing would compare to that setup
 
Oh, my bad. A bit of a dumb question; didn't know that.
No such thing as a dumb question unless it's one that has been answered a million times (ex- BOV venting) or if you're asking how to put boost fluid in your car. :D
Had a T04B 50-trim on my old Evo and was wondering how this 20G with a 16G housing would compare to that setup
Spool way faster but less peak airflow than an E50 compressor. The T04B 50-trim uses the T04E50 compressor in a T04B cover and is normally mated to a P-Trim turbine.
 
No such thing as a dumb question unless it's one that has been answered a million times (ex- BOV venting) or if you're asking how to put boost fluid in your car. :D
Haha. I have the BOV vent argument with someone on an early Evo forum every time a BOV gets mentioned! As for boos fluid, you just squirt it straight at the compressor blades, right?:D

Spool way faster but less peak airflow than an E50 compressor. The T04B 50-trim uses the T04E50 compressor in a T04B cover and is normally mated to a P-Trim turbine.

Hmmm... what sort of numbers would you be looking at for spool and the difference in airflow/power potential? I don't wanna just be throwing around numbers for the hell of it, but just trying to find out if the 20G with my 16G housing is worth the money instead of a 50--trim.
 
so i've been thinking about getting a 20g for my Tsi but haven't wanted to spend almost $1k for one. found one from FP thats a t3, but can have a stock 14b/16g turbine housing swapped onto it (which i already have). i was just wondering if anyone was running this particular turbo with OR without the t3 housing. seems like a good deal for only $539 + tax and shipping. hopefully i can get some good responses.

go for it man thats a good deal
 
Here are some pictures of my td05h 10cm^2 20g I just bought from FP.

First thing to note is that, as it comes from FP, the compressor needs to be clocked. As you can see the compressor outlet is not in the right spot (reference to the oil drain):

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As well the turbine housing outlet has different spacing on the threebolts around the turbine wheel outlet. The 20g is on the left. A 14b is on the right:

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So I am swapping to an ebay 16g turbine housing:

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It has actually a slightly larger volute than a typical 7cm^2 turbine housing. Dont know about the actual exit into the turbine blades; but there is a better radiused entry to the exit too:

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As with all ebay turbine housings, the only way I can get them to clamp onto a real mhi chra is with the ebay v clamp:

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This is the best I could do to get the flapper arm lined up with the actuator arm. Note that the flapper arm is laying down. When closed it will turn away from the actuator arm as it sits:

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But that doesn't matter because I'm running this with my external o2 housing gate I built and used on an older setup :D :

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Remember to plug those actuator holes in the cover if you dont use them! :)

BOOSTON!

Robert Young
 
looking good, Im running the same thing in a 7cm housing
 
Got mine in the mail today.

I got the wastegate that came with it to work with a 7cm evo3 housing. What i did was move the actuator clockwise, so the back bolt hole of the actuator lined up with the front hole in the compressor housing. I then drilled and tapped another hole for the front mounting hole on the actuator. The unused rear hole was just plugged with a very short m8x1.25 bolt. The hole in the end of the actuator rod also must be drilled out to fit the flapper on a dsm housing.

All in all, it's probably the best deal out there for a 400+ whp turbo, that has proven to last forever. $550 total shipped, and an hour to clock, and modify the housing. That is about $500 cheaper than anyone's bolt on 20g.
 
Okay I see all the talk about trying to make it fit, but how's it performing? Wondering how it compares to an Evo3 turbo. And does it clear the waterpipe, or does it have to be smashed in with a sledge hammer? Lol.
 
Okay I see all the talk about trying to make it fit, but how's it performing? Wondering how it compares to an Evo3 turbo. And does it clear the waterpipe, or does it have to be smashed in with a sledge hammer? Lol.

Plenty of info out there on mhi td05h 20g's. No denting of the water pipe, and the stock passenger fan still fits.
 
Well, just figured I'd ask since there's so many different turbine housings that people are able to use with this I guess? Kinda wondering how this one would compare to the Buschur 20g as well. I remember FP having a 20g out that they were selling and I think I even posted a thread on it as well, but it looks like they stopped selling it for whatever the reason. And then of course there's Blouch. Just wondering how this one stacks up.

Wasn't sure if this was the same 20g as all the others since this one has to be modified just to make it work and all.
 
Well, just figured I'd ask since there's so many different turbine housings that people are able to use with this I guess?
6cm, 7cm, and 8cm bolt-on housings in addition to the 10cm T3 housing.
Kinda wondering how this one would compare to the Buschur 20g as well.
Same turbo minus the aggressive turbine clip.
I remember FP having a 20g out that they were selling and I think I even posted a thread on it as well, but it looks like they stopped selling it for whatever the reason.
Replaced by the 68HTA.
Wasn't sure if this was the same 20g as all the others since this one has to be modified just to make it work and all.
Same turbo that has been sold for 15 years only now you can do the manual labor to turn it into a DSM bolt-on unit and save $500.
 
This is the best I could do to get the flapper arm lined up with the actuator arm. Note that the flapper arm is laying down. When closed it will turn away from the actuator arm as it sits:

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You just put bolts into the holes and drill / tap new ones for the actuator so the cover can face downward. Depending on the angle at which you want the outlet of the cover to face, you can get away with using one of the old holes and only drilling / tapping one new one.

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Well i found out why i should have just went external, or fitted one of my holset 20psi actuators. The included actuator doesn't hold much boost. I can get a 25psi spike, and hold around 20 at 7500 rpm's. Going to fab something up this weekend and get this thing to hold 28-30.
 
I believe the actuator that comes on the turbo is only 7psi from the factory. A Holset actuator swap will cure this. ;)

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I believe the actuator that comes on the turbo is only 7psi from the factory. A Holset actuator swap will cure this. ;)

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I made an adapter plate today to install a holset 20 psi actuator. Much better boost control. Hits about 30, and holds about 28 to redline with my current setup, loads more fun.

In case anyone doesn't know. When you run more than about 25 psi, it will surge horribly below 4000 rpm's. I just make sure to not punch it below 4k.
 

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Remember to plug those actuator holes in the cover if you dont use them! :)

BOOSTON!

Robert Young

this might be a stupid question but why do you need to plug the open holes? they aren't open, so no boost leak. Is it to keep the structural integrity of the compressor housing?

thanks
 
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