Tranny fluid EVERYWHERE!! HELP!!

[Semprini]

It literally started out of no where. I noticed it Sunday morning. There was a small puddle under my car. I wasn't at home so I couldn't jack it up to take a look, so I drove it home. Speedo doesn't work. I stopped at the first stop light and looked under the car and it's pissing it everywhere. I made it home OK and jacked it up but I can't really see where it's coming from. I checked the VSS and it's bolted in. I don't have the time to do it this week so I just took it to the local garage.

Any ideas as to what this is going to run me? I just did both axle but didn't replace the seals so that would have been my first guess. The speedo not working has got me stumped.

DSM FAIL once again. Should have bought a Daewoo!!

Thanks guys!

 

[DSM_PWR]

If you didnt replace the seals, that would be your best bet...

We could sit here and guess all day long but theres no real way of finding out without actually looking closly

 

[Semprini]

Haha yeah true. I'm mainly thinking that it's the driver side seal. I just don't see why the speedo would have stopped working too. Not seeing the connection

Also, I had the trans completely rebuilt in 2008. Would the seals have been replaced then?

I just got a call from the shop and it's leaking from inside of the bell housing which makes me think it is the input shaft seal. Luckily for me my 12 month warrantee on the rebuilt trans expired back in May so I'm royally F'ed, and not in the way normal people like to be F'ed!!

Selling the car as is, I'm sick of this shit

 

[DSM_PWR]

Thats the spirit

 

[Semprini]

Thats the spirit

Thanks! I just can't believe that after I spent $2600, to have the trans sent out and completely rebuilt in May of 2009, this happens! Now I'm not too far out of the 12 month warrantee, what a crock!

 

[Deuce_three]

My speedometer does the same. Only thing that fixes it was to press the reset button a couple times and it works.

 

[LiquidX]

Who rebuilt it, what oil were you using, and with true honesty how were you driving the vehicle?

I'm in a similar boat with the warranty stuff. I have a Jack Transmissions tranny and it has a year unlimited mile warranty. Well after I got it, I drove the car for a month and then it sat for a year and a half. I get it back only to notice that 1st gear pops out at low speed with altering the amount of gas and 2nd gear grinds randomly. I have driven it for maybe 4 months total but it doesn't matter and I just have to suck it up apparently.

 

[Semprini]

Who rebuilt it, what oil were you using, and with true honesty how were you driving the vehicle?

I'm in a similar boat with the warranty stuff. I have a Jack Transmissions tranny and it has a year unlimited mile warranty. Well after I got it, I drove the car for a month and then it sat for a year and a half. I get it back only to notice that 1st gear pops out at low speed with altering the amount of gas and 2nd gear grinds randomly. I have driven it for maybe 4 months total but it doesn't matter and I just have to suck it up apparently.

I'm not sure off the top of my head. I'll have to check the paperwork. I just replaced the axle and I had to have the shop do the driver side because it was ceased into the hub, so I'm not sure of the oil they put it. The warrantee was 12 month/12K miles and I've only put about half the milage on it. I also drive it like an old lady since I dropped so much into it. I'll get on it but I don't slam it from gear to gear.

I now noticed it only leaks while driving. Once I come to a stop you can see it pouring out but when it sits over night the amount doesn't increase.

 

[TurboAnything]

Bad input bearing can cause that seal to leak. Extended driving that way could hurt the trans.

 

[hairybeanbag]

Are you sure it's gear oil? I'm fixing a similar leak but engine oil, maybe you have a bad rear main seal on the crank?

 

[johnmarines]

My speedometer does the same. Only thing that fixes it was to press the reset button a couple times and it works.

where is the reset button???

 

[LiquidX]

where is the reset button???

Prob means the reset button/peg for the "trip'o'meter".

 

[vinnio]

I had the same problem with my auto trans as well. It ended up being the transmission oil pump. I initially thought it was the input shaft seal too (like said above) So, dropped the transmission, replaced the seal, and was leaking again within 20 minutes. Talk about pita. So while the trans is down the first time, have them check it out.

good luck

Edit: thought your profile said auto so never mind...

 

[Semprini]

Bad input bearing can cause that seal to leak. Extended driving that way could hurt the trans.

I would assume that was replaced with the trans was rebuilt

Are you sure it's gear oil? I'm fixing a similar leak but engine oil, maybe you have a bad rear main seal on the crank?

Yeah, I checked both.

I had the same problem with my auto trans as well. It ended up being the transmission oil pump. I initially thought it was the input shaft seal too (like said above) So, dropped the transmission, replaced the seal, and was leaking again within 20 minutes. Talk about pita. So while the trans is down the first time, have them check it out.

good luck

Manual trans has a pump??

 

[twicks69]

No, the manual transmission does not have a pump....

As for your FWD transmission, one of three things has happened.

1) You had wheel-hop, and hand-grenaded the front differential, resulting in the spider gears or the cross-shaft blowing out, taking out the speed sensor and putting a hole in your bellhousing. Pull the speed sensor and see if the plastic wheel is shredded. This will tell you alot very quickly.

2) You had an unlikely input shaft seal failure, more likely the result of a failed input shaft inner tapered roller bearing -- which would have quite a bit of noise to go along with it.

3) You have an axle seal that is torn. If you already inspected this, you would see very quickly if it is the cause of the leakage or not.

Personally, I have my money on #1.

Sorry.

 

[laserspeeddemon]

This why I only allowed DSM Transmissions shops to touch my tranny.

Jacks, TRE, Shep or Dogbox or you ended getting some random joe who has no idea what to do with your car.

 

[Semprini]

No, the manual transmission does not have a pump....

As for your FWD transmission, one of three things has happened.

1) You had wheel-hop, and hand-grenaded the front differential, resulting in the spider gears or the cross-shaft blowing out, taking out the speed sensor and putting a hole in your bellhousing. Pull the speed sensor and see if the plastic wheel is shredded. This will tell you alot very quickly.

2) You had an unlikely input shaft seal failure, more likely the result of a failed input shaft inner tapered roller bearing -- which would have quite a bit of noise to go along with it.

3) You have an axle seal that is torn. If you already inspected this, you would see very quickly if it is the cause of the leakage or not.

Personally, I have my money on #1.

Sorry.

Say it was the first one that you mentioned... if the differential is now blown apart wouldn't that make a lot of noise while driving since all of the pieces would be floating around in there?

 

[1997_GSX]

This why I only allowed DSM Transmissions shops to touch my tranny.

Jacks, TRE, Shep or Dogbox or you ended getting some random joe who has no idea what to do with your car.

Lol Dogbox.... I had them rebuild a friends and its leaking somewhere in the bell housing, has killed 2 clutches so far, the first time we thought it was the rear main and it wasn't. There are 400 miles on the transmission.

We are figuring the input shaft seal is leaking requiring a whole tear down. Well I am pulling it apart and fixing it myself.


I would send it to Twicks before most of them, hes always helping non customers. I can only imagine what he does for his actual customers.

 

[Semprini]

Lol Dogbox.... I had them rebuild a friends and its leaking somewhere in the bell housing, has killed 2 clutches so far, the first time we thought it was the rear main and it wasn't. There are 400 miles on the transmission.

We are figuring the input shaft seal is leaking requiring a whole tear down. Well I am pulling it apart and fixing it myself.


I would send it to Twicks before most of them, hes always helping non customers. I can only imagine what he does for his actual customers.

I am still thinking that it is the seal as well. The trans runs as smooth as it has since the rebuild with absolutely no noise or hesistation from it. I highly doubt the differential has blown up. If there's a hole in the bell housing I would have heard/felt something. Leak crept up out of no where.

 

[twicks69]

Well, like I posted up on a different forum for Luke, here is the 2G FWD transmission teardown instructions to replace an input shaft seal:
Download the factory service manual -- you will be looking at the F5M33 transmission for your application:

http://www.3sx.com/faq/manuals/Service-Manual-Transmission-FWD-Mitsubishi-Manual.pdf

Special tools:
snapring pliers (Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more)
seal puller (Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more)
OTC 1122 bearing splitter and OTC 7393 push-puller (do a google search)
36mm socket (end shaft nuts)
12mm socket
14mm deep socket
17mm socket
19mm socket
24mm deep socket or wrench
swivel-head socket attachment
short 3-4" extension
2 prybars
1/2" impact or cordless impact
3/8" impact or cordless impact
3/8" ratchet
3/16" roll pin punches
hammer or mini-sledge
dead-blow hammer
Ultra Grey or black RTV silicone
Brake-cleaner for degreasing purposes

These are the majority of the tools required for teardown.

For FWD (F5M33) transmissions:

Remove the 5th gear cover (12mm long and short bolts), manually shift the transmission into reverse (or you can use a roll pin punch and hammer and remove the roll pin from the 5th/Rev shift fork and manually shift the transmission into 1st and 5th) to lock the transmission. Then, using a 1/2" impact and 36mm socket, remove the end shaft nuts from 5th gear and 5th intermediate gear.

If the 5th/Rev shift fork roll pin is still installed, remove it using a 5mm or 3/16" roll pin punch and hammer. It is best to use the pin punch and pound the pin outward as you may get it stuck in the hub assembly if you don't know what you are doing.

Once the hub and slider assembly has been removed, remove the 5th gear and 5th gear split needle bearing. Now, remove the 5th intermediate gear. It should be easy to remove by hand, or hard to remove requiring special tools -- DO NOT PRY THE GEAR OFF!!! YOU WILL CHIP THE TEETH! Use the proper tool. That would be an OTC 1122 bearing splitter and OTC 7393 push-puller tool by inserting the jaws on the top flange of the 5th intermediate gear and then remove the gear.

Remove the reverse switch (24mm wrench), remove the reverse lockout bolt (19mm), remove the three shift detent poppet plugs (14mm)/springs/detent balls (using a pen magnet), and reverse idler gear bolt (14mm bolt next to front differential passenger-side axle seal).

Remove case section bolts, and remove case section gently using two prybars evenly spreading the case gently upward. ***NOTE THE ORIENTATION OF THE REVERSE IDLER GEAR*** You will need to have the reverse idler shaft oriented properly so that the reverse idler gear shaft bolt properly reinstalls -- note the direction that is required so it matches up with the transmission case for easy installation.

Now, with the case removed, lift up on the reverse idler gear shaft and remove the shaft, then slide out the gear and remove the key from the reverse linkage arm. Remove the two 12mm bolts that attach the reverse linkage arm to the bellhousing. Remove the linkage arm.

Remove output shaft. Remove/clean/inspect output shaft and front differential.

Now, using your roll pin punch, remove the roll pins for the 1/2 and 3/4 shift forks. Using your hands or gently using small prybars, orient the 5th/Rev rail end first by pulling upward and away from the shift selector (away from the other two rail ends). While the 5th/Rev rail end is up/away, do the same with the 3/4 rail end so that it clears the shift selector assembly. With the 1st/2nd rail end, go the OPPOSITE DIRECTION and gently move it away from the other two rail ends so that you can slightly modulate the shift selector to clear all three rail ends. Pull up. All the gear clusters and shift rails/rail ends/forks will come up as one single unit.

With the gearset removed, you now have access to the input shaft seal. Use your seal puller and remove the input shaft seal and install a new one.

Inspect entire assembly and clean transmission case and magnet of any debris.

With new seal installed, assemble the gear clusters with the shift forks just like how you removed them originally. Reinstall the cluster assembly, modulate the shift rail ends just like how you removed them to get them all back to centered orienation with the 1/2 on the left side of the shift selector, the 3/4 on the center of the shift selector and the 5th/rev on the right side of the shift selector in the neutral position.

Reinstall new roll pins.

Reinstall the reverse linkage arm and 12mm bolts - 16-18 lb/ft torque. Reinstall the reverse linkage key, idler gear and slide the idler gear shaft back into the oiling detent with the bolt hole orientation towards the front diff properly so it aligns with the main case section.

Reinstall the output shaft and front differential.

RTV silicone the case section flange evenly with a thin bead of Permatex Ultra Black or Ultra Gray RTV silicone. Otherwise, using your finger, evenly spread a thin coat on the case section flange so that all contact area is evenly covered with the RTV silicone. Let cure for 15-20 minutes to tack, then install the case section.

Reinstall the case section making sure that you have the magnet tray reinstalled and the black plastic oiling guide reinstalled on the case section.

Reinstall the reverse idler gear bolt to 32-39 lb/ft torque. (Tapered end bolt with aluminum flat washer).

Reinstall the 14mm bolts that attach the main case section to the bellhousing to 29-35 lb/ft torque EVENLY.

Reinstall the 19mm reverse lockout switch bolt (19mm head with spring-loaded detent ball on the end and aluminum flat washer) to 22-25 lb/ft torque.

Reinstall the 24mm reverse switch (plug head with 24mm hex-shape body and aluminum flat washer -- DO NOT FORGET THE WASHER or you will have problems shifting into 5th/Reverse) to 22-25 lb/ft torque.

Reinstall 5th intermediate gear and 5th gear split needle bearings/5th gear. Reinstall the 5th/Reverse hub and slider gently/evenly with 5th and reverse synchros oriented properly so it does not bind up or get damaged. Slide the hub and slider back on WITH THE 5th/Rev shift fork at the same time being installed onto the 5th/Rev rail.

Reinstall the 5th/Rev shift fork roll pin.

Manually shift the transmission into reverse (OR like last time, before reinstalling the roll pin, shift the transmission into 1st manually, then into 5th gear with your hand engaging the hub/slider onto 5th).

Install new end shaft nuts to 102-115 lb/ft torque.

Ping the detents with either a punch/hammer or a small point punch on an air hammer GENTLY for both end shaft nuts.

RTV transmission case flange for 5th gear cover. Let tack 15-20 minutes before reinstallation.

Be sure your reverse wave spring is still in place and reverse synchro is properly reinstalled.

Be sure that you have the roll pin back in the 5th/Rev shift fork, and that the transmission is back in the neutral position.

Reinstall 5th gear cover and 12mm bolts to 16-20 lb/ft torque (FWD cases use this number; AWD cases with 14mm bolts use 26-30 lb/ft torque).

This is a quick rundown of directions for replacement of an input shaft seal or inspection/disassembly of a F5M33 FWD turbo 5-speed transmission for a 4G63 FWD turbo DSM 1991-1999.

Non-reusable parts mentioned -

FWD trans:
End Shaft Nut - MD731948 x 2
Roll Pins - MD701722 x 3
Input Shaft Seal - MD741818
Front Right Axle Seal - MD742053
Front Left Axle Seal - MD742053




Good luck with the project!

Tim Zimmer

 

[BIGBLAZE79]

Well I have nothing to do with this thread but I just gotta say,

Damn Tim, you're a bad arss! That's real cool of you to put all that effort into helping someone you don't even know. I hope you have a merry Christmas man, you definatly deserve it!