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Failed emissions

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talondsm24

10+ Year Contributor
102
0
Aug 28, 2009
Arvada, Colorado
ok so ive only got 10 days and i really need to get my car to pass. here are the numbers

reading limit
HC 4.9903 2.0
CO 21.1271 20.0
CO2 418.9672
NOx 7.4658 3.5

i put in a few thing before the test like put some lucas oil, fuel injector cleaner, and a seal up additive in the oil as well as drove on the highway to get everything really hot.

What should i do?!!!
 
seal up any bost leaks/ vacuum leaks as that can affect air/fuel ratios which effect emissions. Make sure the iginition timing is set correctly as this will greatly effect how it runs. A set of fresh plugs wouldn't hurt. A hotter heat range plug may help aid in combustion (just a thought). Make sure your B.O.V is recirculated and not vented. As long as your injectors and maf are stock make sure your fuel pressure is stock (if you have an adjustable regulato); fuel pressure affects IDC and can effect atomization.
 
i have an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator that i havnt touched since i bought it about 2 months ago. i have no means of logging or tuning (im still saving up for this) so i dont think i can run e85. and im not too sure about ignition timing ill check my manual but last time i checked i could only find how to change it on the 1.8l
 
Make sure the fuel pressure is set to stock, as far as your ignition timing the probe for it should be behind the battery on the firewall. While the motor is running attach that to ground by using a jumper wire or paperclip and use a timing light to make sure the ignition timing is at *5btdc on your timing cover down by the harmonic balancer. To adjust the timing loosen the crank angle sensor until the hash mark on the balancer lines up with timing cover. then just simply unground the connector. Timing will go back to being computer controlled at *15. While this connector is grounded you can also take this as a time to adjust curb idle speed if you have issues with it being high or low.

A common boost leak/ vacuum leak is the biss screw. You can order a new o-ring for it or wrap it with some teflon tape. You may find this leaking if you do a boost leak test or adjust your idle speed. Doing a boost leak test before you adjust idle ensures the idle will be proper and not over adjusting for any underlying conditions
 
so it seems there is a bit of oil in the hose going to my intercooler from my j-pipe and also some oil in the intake side of my turbo. i have no shaft play at all. is my turbo blown? randomly the car started smoking white smoke about a week ago but the problem took care of itself and it doesnt smoke at all any more? is this oil effecting my emissions?
 
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Burning oil will GREATLY alter emissions. it can also coat 02 sensors, and take away the life of a catalytic converter. wite smoke is usually an indication of condensation, or in worse cases a head gasket. When was the last time you checked intercooler piping for the turbo? Oil wil build up over time as you have a vacum line from the valve cover feeding into the intake pre turbo. Definatley unbolt the intercooler and clean it out with gasoline or a very good degreaser. Make sure it is dried out before you reinstall it. Clean out the piping as best you can but you don't have to go to crazy with it.

Another thing you can do to try and pass emission is to use Sea Foam engine cleaner. Its hung above the motor and uses engine vacuum to suck the cleaner into the motor through an intake port close to the throttle body. You MUST keep the engine rpm above 2500 while doing this, allowing the rpm to go blow that may cause the cleaner to flood the motor and possibly hydrolock. There is a valve or restrictor set up on this hose from the cleaner to the intake set up like an iv drip in the hospital. IT should take between 15-30 minutes for a treatment. It is normal to see lots of white smoke during this and after the test for a short period of time. It cleans out alot of carbon build up in the motor. Do a search for sea foam engine cleaner. There should be a few threads on it. ITs been pretty well talked about it on here.
 
ill look into the seafoam sounds like something i defiantly need to do. i took out all the piping and the intercooler today, there was oil in the intake side of the turbo and in the pipoing up untill the intercooler. the couplings from the uicp to the maf were coated in an oily but slightly sticky residue? i have a purple wire hanging of my maf not connected to anything, i know i dont have a stock maf mine is a square and i have hard piping, any idea what this wire is for? i took off the maf to get to the egr for testing then realized vac pumps at the auto parts store are $60! is there any other way i can test the egr? also, how should i clean the o2 sensors, or should i just replace them?

and thanks bleedingsilver, your a big help
 
Your using a gm maf? Try cleaning it with carb clean just spray it don't soak it though. If the gm maf isn't set up right you can be messing with emissions. As far as the sea foam, I can't stress enough to make sure you are careful and have it on a slow iv style drip as you can actually do more harm then good. When done right it works GREAT!!!! The oily substance is more then likely exactly what you said. Just an oily build up. Oil and rubber don't mix so its probably just the oil laying in a spot and seeping through. If you don't clean your engine bay alot and if you daily drive the car it could also be road grime and whatever else. As far as making sure the egr works properly without a vac pump you would need to see if you can borrow one from someone. Theres really no easy solution to test that without a pump. What makes you want to check egr operation? There is usually driveability issues when an egr valve acts up. or a check engine light.

Im not sure what the purple wire is for, It may be for intake air temperature. Im not to familair with gm mafs, I'm a huge fan of the stock style maf upgrades be it a 2g or evo upgrade. Driveability just seems much better using the stock style equipment but to each his own.
 
seem how i live in "glorious California" i dont take chances i put everything back to stock on y car to make sure i pass smog and i always get a pre test just to make sure... i think your exhaust might be an issue also but first thing is first put your stock maf back in the car.
 
I read somewhere that someone put in 2 gallons of denatured alcohol with half a gallon of 93 and that let him pass with flying colors.
 
advance your timing and pump 87.


I would only recommend advancing the timing if it is off. TO much advancement will cause detenation and more pulled timing which throws off emissions. the 87 octane would burn easier which should make for better emissions however in a turbo car anything less then premium is a no-no. Even if he wasn't to drive it hard its still kind of risky. I might consider running 91 but it wouldn't be more then just long enough to get to the station pass the smog test and get a full tank of premium.


On another note can we get any updates on any progress, is it soon to pass or has it passed?
 
ok dude i got 1 for you, I live in colorado too and my 1g wouldnt pass the first few times, it was reading like 6x all the limits! OMG so what i did was turned my biss screw all the way in and my car passed. i would count how many turns it takes that way after emissions you can set it back to the way it was. my cars idle dropped really low when you would let off the gas but it stayed runnin and the turbo wouldnt boost past 7psi (normally 10psi) and passed no problem! if it wants to die on you, you can always open the throttle up just a little bit by adjusting the cable. if all fail register it in one of our mountain towns with no emissions LOL but shhhh dont tell no1 :shhh:
 
well, come to find out i have a test pipe not a cat! to me they both looked exatly the same when it was on the car, thats how i tricked the smog tech too. so i need to order a really good cat, anyone know of one? i was going to do the seafoam sometimne this week and today im gonna take out my intercooler and all the piping and clean the insides really well.my temp tag expired so its gonna sit till i can pass and this being my only car, i need to figure it out fast!
 
there is a junk yard off of oxford and santafe. well theres like 10 right there but i go to 1 called "colorado" its on radcliff st. almost positive you will find 1 there or at 1 of them around there. another thing is to check craigslist. so many people part out dsm's on there and will cut a good deal. i found everything i have ever needed from craigslist. you can post a add like "i need a 1g cat" and i bet some1 will call or email with 1 for cheap
 
50/50 mix with e85?

+1

Also unplug your boost gauge so that you create a vacuum leak, causing your car to run leaner. As long as they don't get it into boost on the rollers it will make you lean and not rich, you could take the arm off the wastegate (30 seconds) to insure that they won't be able to get it to boost.
 
well i have a 3" turbo back so a junkyard cat wont work. do the high flow cats sacrafice any emissions? or are they just as efficient as any other cat? i dont want to unplug my boost or anything because they get the car well into boost on the rollers. id rather just turn my boost up and run very slightly leaner
 
i dont want to unplug my boost or anything because they get the car well into boost on the rollers. id rather just turn my boost up and run very slightly leaner

Look at your wastegate actuator, it has an arm on it that goes over to the hotside of the turbo, it's held on by a cotter pin. Remove that cotter pin and grab the arm with some pliers, pull it towards the alternator and off the turbo. Voila! No boost no matter how hard they push your car.

Do the above

50/50 e85 and gas

Unplug boost gauge to cause small vacuum leak (make you run leaner out of boost, rich if you were in boost, but you won't be able to boost because you took the actuator arm off)

Pass.....most likely.
 
The lack of a cat seems to be heart of the problem! I remember those days living in CO and Texas I hated those E-tests. Now in KS I run no cat and don't have to worry about emission cops, for least now.
 
dont i have to have a tuning system to run any e85? when i take the actuator arm off that would just be running all my exhaust gasses out the wastegate therefore not getting as much air to my intake so, wouldnt i run too rich even with the boost guage disconnected?
 
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