Road Racing - FMIC

[asian312]

I had bought a used oil cooler setup which had originally been setup to run on the passenger side, but I choose to mount it on the driver's side due to my cold-air-intake.

Here's some pics from the previous owner of it on the passenger side:
ECMTuning Forums 01
ECMTuning Forums 02
ECMTuning Forums 03
ECMTuning Forums 04

Here's some pics of how I have it mounted. I had to relocate the horn and some other electrical bits, but it was pretty straight forward: Oil Cooler pictures - Photobucket


Also, I have a ceramic coated FP exhaust manifold with no cover and no hood vent, and no overheating problems on the road circuit.

One problem I am having now is power steering fluid. It seems to be overheating and spitting out fluid from the reservoir cap while on the track. So I'll soon be looking at power steering cooler setup.

Thanks for the pics. Those will certainly help during the fab stage. Hopefully the sum of all these changes equates to a reliable track monster so it can get back in the business of chasing down german kraut and american muscle.

I had a similar issue with the PS fluid leaking from the cap. Mine ended up being just needing a replacement seal.

 

[KevinBoosted]

This is a great thread. Keep us updated. Im currently having the same problems. But when i switched from T-25 SMIC to FP3065 and FMIC the overheating began. 2 laps around Phoenix International Raceway and i was reading 230+ on DSMLink. Already burnt thru 2 sets of slim fans. However i dont have any ducting what so ever. Im waiting until payday to drop the car off at my fabricator for a splitter, recessing my FMIC, and adding ducting to seal off the radiator.

My note, yea wrap that turbo, manifold, even the downpipe. Im sure your turbo is slowly cooking your radiator at lights thats what mines been doing even with a aluminum radiator. I recommend FALs in a shroud and seal those as well. But again keep us updated i cant even relate to how identical this problem is and has been giving me problems since may

 

[Ludachris]

This is a great thread. Keep us updated. Im currently having the same problems. But when i switched from T-25 SMIC to FP3065 and FMIC the overheating began. 2 laps around Phoenix International Raceway and i was reading 230+ on DSMLink. Already burnt thru 2 sets of slim fans. However i dont have any ducting what so ever. Im waiting until payday to drop the car off at my fabricator for a splitter, recessing my FMIC, and adding ducting to seal off the radiator.

My note, yea wrap that turbo, manifold, even the downpipe. Im sure your turbo is slowly cooking your radiator at lights thats what mines been doing even with a aluminum radiator. I recommend FALs in a shroud and seal those as well. But again keep us updated i cant even relate to how identical this problem is and has been giving me problems since may

You can add all the ducting you want to force air through the radiator. If it has no way of escaping through the hood, it's not going to be as effective. You need hood vents.

Listen guys, I'm sure some of you aren't excited about cutting your hood and making your car look like Frankenstein, but hood vents are a must if you have an FMIC and/or big turbo. Turbochargers generate lots of excess underhood heat. That heat needs a way to escape. Aluminum radiators, fans, ducting, and water wetter are all great, but they're all going to be less effective without hood venting.

 

[xloki77x]

+1^^^

 

[asian312]

You can add all the ducting you want to force air through the radiator. If it has no way of escaping through the hood, it's not going to be as effective. You need hood vents.

Listen guys, I'm sure some of you aren't excited about cutting your hood and making your car look like Frankenstein, but hood vents are a must if you have an FMIC and/or big turbo. Turbochargers generate lots of excess underhood heat. That heat needs a way to escape. Aluminum radiators, fans, ducting, and water wetter are all great, but they're all going to be less effective without hood venting.

Just for you

I'll be sure to keep this post updated and hopefully a resolution. For those just joining:

Things done:
- vented hood
- sealing radiator
- ducting w/ lower scoop
- splitter
- lower temp thermostat
- aluminum radiator / using stock fans (full on via DSMLink)
- 100% water w/ water wetter

Next to try:
- sealing off lower scoop
- adding heat shields
- oil to air OFH

 

[KevinBoosted]

You can add all the ducting you want to force air through the radiator. If it has no way of escaping through the hood, it's not going to be as effective. You need hood vents.

Listen guys, I'm sure some of you aren't excited about cutting your hood and making your car look like Frankenstein, but hood vents are a must if you have an FMIC and/or big turbo. Turbochargers generate lots of excess underhood heat. That heat needs a way to escape. Aluminum radiators, fans, ducting, and water wetter are all great, but they're all going to be less effective without hood venting.

I hear ya. I got a beat to crap oem vis cf hood for my track hood i was gonna cut 1 or 2 holes on each side or add a reverse scoop, right now i just took a bunch of washers and cowled the back of the hood until i came up with an idea

 

[xloki77x]

Kevin, see post 18 and 20.

 

[underradar92]

Kevin, focus on forcing more air around/past the intercooler and making sure it can't get lost on the way to the radiator. From what I'm seeing, the air can go almost anywhere once it passes through the IC on your setup.

The intercooler will cool at track speeds. The cooling system doesn't want interheated air.

And yes, heatshield the crap out of the turbo/exhaust area, all the venting and airflow in the world won't combat radiant heat. Radiators are by design, absorbers also.

 

[underradar92]

Kevin, see post 18 and 20.

Adding pressure from the rear of the engine compartment will actually slow the airflow trying to move front to back through the radiator.

Like trying to cool the turbo by facing the exhaust pipe forward.

 

[snowborder714]

Kevin, would you be willing to share what you made the splitter from?

 

[asian312]

Kevin, focus on forcing more air around/past the intercooler and making sure it can't get lost on the way to the radiator. From what I'm seeing, the air can go almost anywhere once it passes through the IC on your setup.

The intercooler will cool at track speeds. The cooling system doesn't want interheated air.

And yes, heatshield the crap out of the turbo/exhaust area, all the venting and airflow in the world won't combat radiant heat. Radiators are by design, absorbers also.

Here's a better pic with the IC in place. The ducting you see sits between the IC and core support with the only additional opening being the lower scoop.

Kevin, would you be willing to share what you made the splitter from?

The splitter in it's current form is made of 1/4 plastic. I have some bracing to add to increase rigidity and will be lining the bottem with 1/8 aluminum to keep the track from sanding the splitter off.

 

[Ludachris]

I hear ya. I got a beat to crap oem vis cf hood for my track hood i was gonna cut 1 or 2 holes on each side or add a reverse scoop, right now i just took a bunch of washers and cowled the back of the hood until i came up with an idea

Yeah, as others have pointed out, cowling is typically done for air induction, not air expulsion - though some will argue tooth and nail that it helps with cooling. As far as I'm concerned, if it helped, race teams all over would be doing it. It's easier to follow the lead of pro teams that have done all of the engineering and research for us, which brings us back to using hood vents instead of cowling.

 

[KevinBoosted]

Yeah, as others have pointed out, cowling is typically done for air induction, not air expulsion - though some will argue tooth and nail that it helps with cooling. As far as I'm concerned, if it helped, race teams all over would be doing it. It's easier to follow the lead of pro teams that have done all of the engineering and research for us, which brings us back to using hood vents instead of cowling.

Thanks for all the help guys. Not trying to thread jack but its about time i fix this crap and get back on the track Im gonna ditch the cowl and add a vent, ill make a thread when i come around to it for my ducting and cooling breakthroughs

 

[Poloturbo]

Tried the turbo blanket kit and it was ripping apart after not even a year....too much heat and it dried out.

The most effective part for me was thestock heat shields back in place with the hood vent.
I tried back to back 20 min sessions with a without the front right light and it made a big difference as the air goes straight to the radiator. I'm so use to it it takes now 2 min to take it out.

I think what helps me the most is the Spearco 2-221, a up and down core resulting of a lot of airflow on the 2 sides directly going to the radiator. Good for 1200cfm, good enough for my EVO316G

The aluminum radiator and the remove thermostat help me also.

No ducting as of now...

 

[Strm Trpr]

I do not think we're talking about the same turbo blanket.
This is the new one and it's made from Lava Rock... WTF

It is the made from the same material DEI uses in their new Titanium Heat Wrap.
Their currently made for T3 Hotsides, and Buschur Racing sells them for $230.

 

[Ludachris]

I do not think we're talking about the same turbo blanket.
This is the new one and it's made from Lava Rock... WTF

It is the made from the same material DEI uses in their new Titanium Heat Wrap.
Their currently made for T3 Hotsides, and Buschur Racing sells them for $230.

Yes, the new turbo blanket from DEI is supposedly worth its weight in gold (or lava). I've been told Summit carries them for about $150 or so. Once I sell a few more parts I'll be picking one up for sure.

 

[xloki77x]

I talked with FP today and was reminded of the fact that the FP turbine housing is made of stainless steel. I had wondered if that was going to be an issue with the turbo blanket because stainless expands and contracts a bit more than a normal steel casting. To trap that heat in will definitely reduce the life of the turbine housing, unfortunately. It was more highly recommended that I have the housing coated, heat shield it, and wrap the downpipe and manifold. I would like to use a blanket, but I would rather have the turbo last. Anyway, thought I would share that bit of info in case you are running an FP turbo.

Pete

 

[Strm Trpr]

Yes, the new turbo blanket from DEI is supposedly worth its weight in gold (or lava). I've been told Summit carries them for about $150 or so. Once I sell a few more parts I'll be picking one up for sure.

Really.... Please post up the part number.
I haven't checked lately, but I don't think DEI even has them on their site.
The only way I know about this one is from cruising Buschur's Forums.

Well, what do you know, STM carries them.
DEI TITANIUM TURBO SHIELD / BLANKET

Extreme PSI has a kit with the blanket and wrap for doing to DP as well.
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - DEI T3 Titanium Turbo Shield Kit

 

[turbosax2]

Design Engineering DEI 010127 - DEI Titanium Exhaust Wrap with LR Technlogy - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Design Engineering DEI 010141 - DEI T3 Turbo Titanium Heat Shield Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com

 

[Strm Trpr]

That's the same kit Extreme sells for even less...
I'd like to Road Race a HTA3076R with T3 .63 A/R Hotside, but for $1700..... WTF
Are those HTA Turbos really what they're cracked up to be, or is a regular GT3076R just as good?

 

[xloki77x]

They ARE what they're cracked up to be.

 

[Strm Trpr]

Yeah, I know...

 

[Poloturbo]

It was in fact an older version. That one seems like the HOT ticket. I wonder if it would fit with heat shields on.

 

[MIdsm]

The "lower scoop" in post 36 is located in a very low pressure area and I believe that it creates a low pressure area in front of the radiator. Basically the air probably leaves the FMIC and exits below the splitter through the "scoop" and bypasses the radiator. Radiators and intercoolers don't need large openings if they are ducted properly but about 25-50 percent of the core area depending on speed of the car and the altitude. There can be no openings in any of the ducts. Create high pressure in front of the first core and low pressure behind the last one. Seal the ducts with aluminum duct tape at seams and against the bodywork and heat exchangers. My advice would be to close the hole in the splitter and connect the bottom of the FMIC to the bottom of the radiator.

Good luck

 

[xloki77x]

+1^^^ This lower scoop will also effect your aero by allowing the air going under the car to be disrupted from it's original smooth path (flow). You will definitely get better aero and cooling effects by sealing that guy up. But you be the judge. Do your testing and try both, that is half the fun (or pain in the ass) of setting up your car! I get this warm fuzzy every time I make a change for the better on my car, especially on a dsm because there is so much to improve upon!

Pete