ECMlink 3rd gear pull log

[LandoAWD]

Alright, as some of y'all know, I've been battling pesky knock between 5.5k and 6k. Last week, I took the car to a friend's and BLT'd to 25lbs. The WG arm was loose so that was adjusted tighter...no more hearing me bi*** about slow spool. We also adjusted the slave cyl since it was dragging and that was about it.

Here's a clipped log showing a quick pull onto the interstate and the full drive to Bojangles before work log. Boost set at 15-16psi.

 

[LandoAWD]

Updated. Took 1* out from the timing...the knock is WORSE. Pull starts in the 180s range...there's a second gear rip and a 3rd gear rip.

 

[big_d]

How do I view .elg files? I have the dsmlink software, but they don't open.

 

[LandoAWD]

Download the v.3 app from the ECMLink site.

 

[LandoAWD]

Pull from today. I'm not trusting the AEM reading in link whatsoever at this point. The gauge never showed leaner than 10.9 as if it had gone to 11.0 I'd see something other than the green LED and --- on the display.

More fuel? Less timing? This was at a rock solid 16psi.

 

[toofast82]

How does "deg" of knock compare to "counts" of knock scale wise?
I'm assuming you are running pump gas as well?

I would begin by lowering the timing considerably in the low rpms(3500-4400rpm) range to see if this helps with the midrange knock. Also you are looking a little lean there according to the AEM gauge, but see what effect the timing has first on the a/fs, then you may want to add some fuel as well. The lower timing should help spoolup some.
You may want to start with a 2g timing map as a good base for pump gas and go from there.
The 2g map on this site seems to be accurate
The DSM ECU Timing Curve

 

[LandoAWD]

I have the timing up for a bit more power under the curve after reading and discussing on Link forums, as well as here. There is zero knock until 4100 and the adjustment points are on 500rpm intervals. I'll look into the timing at that spot.

The AEM gauge is showing >11.0, but the Link vx AEM issue may be showing its teeth. Thus, the statement about not trusting the Link readings.

 

[toofast82]

4171rpm seems to be the last point where there is no knock, the timing is 18* and a/f of 13.4:1. I think this is causing you to come into knock in the continuing rpms. 18* would be where a stock 1g map would be there. You also have .7:1 more compression than 1g pistons.
I would seriously start from scratch with a fresh 2g map and go from there. You might like the spoolup!
The 365hp at 5600rpm at only 14.5psi is pretty nice

 

[LandoAWD]

The 365hp at 5600rpm at only 14.5psi is pretty nice

WTF? I had that as a displayed value in the 2.5 software but can't see it now. I'm Link-retarded.

I would seriously start from scratch with a fresh 2g map and go from there. You might like the spoolup!

I think I may. I had chalked up the stupid slow spoolup on previous tunes to that map, but as I noted in post 1, it was probably from the flapper being open. I may revisit that map.

 

[toofast82]

WTF? I had that as a displayed value in the 2.5 software but can't see it now. I'm Link-retarded.

I went under "edit" and then "display values" and selected it. Did the same for the AEM wb reading.
I don't use link, I just downloaded V3 from there site today and yours is the first v3 log i've seen. I've looked at plenty of v2 logs, though.

At least with the 2g map, there most likely won't be any knock at 16psi. Then you can go proceed with the "tuning" game.

 

[LandoAWD]

. I checked there so as not to be thought a fool. Still can't find it, but not too worried.

Reloaded the app and got additional display parameters. Go figure.

 

[snowborder714]

The one thing that bothers me about your timing curve is how choppy/jumpy it is. I personally would try and smooth it out. I don't believe mine has any jump bigger than 3*.

You hit F9 and look for Horsepower on the left, if it's not already displayed.

 

[Rob10_99]

Besides knock taking timing out, I would think you could run more than 12 deg even on pump.
Have you checked your plugs to see if your running lean like you are thinking? because you dont trust your gauge. Seems like slow spool on the 3rd run may be from timing being dropped where it should be building boost as well as AF a little rich.
Looks like you could be hitting 16psi at around 4500rpm...
second look, do a pull on those same settings starting about 2k at WOT.
Your front O2 shows its rich(slightly) which I would say is about the same as your wideband reading at 10:1 ish

 

[toofast82]

Besides knock taking timing out, I would think you could run more than 12 deg even on pump.

I would think he should be able to run more than 12* up top on 16psi on the PT 6152. Especially since this turbo is not a "hot-air pump" at this point, not even close. The timing only seems to drop 1* from 12-11 at 53-5400rpm. and comes back up 12* by 6k. He was about 11.4:1 at 5300rpm, so maybe try setting the timing back to 11* degrees here or see what adding fuel does?

He definitely needs to work on lowering the "low rpm" timing some to try and get rid of the mid range knock for starters

 

[Rob10_99]

Oh found you have wideband logged(derr). Try to richen it up, that may fix your spool up knock from being lean.
Try a little more fuel at 4krpm +
Worth a try, are you sure you dont have any exhaust leaks? How far back is your WB sensor?


I didn't say "up top" =P Was meaning where he was logged 6k <

quick idea, load a stock map and see where your WB reads, if your not too far out of the crapshoot for fuel trims

 

[LandoAWD]

I have a set on non-projected 8es plugs sitting in the glovebox. It's been a while since the plugs were changed, but I'm doing oil, coolant, and plugs over my long weekend.

I do trust the gauge, I don't trust the output to Link. AEMs are terrible for this.

Brian, the 2g curve should fix that along with setting a baseline to further tune.

 

[snowborder714]

I would think the 8's would be too cold. I'd say either 6's gapped tight or 7's.

 

[LandoAWD]

The car was on br8es when I bought it with the EPROM tune at 26psi. Damned if I've been able to replicate those results with this program...

I'll just check the 7es for now. They aren't too old and are/were gapped at .025 which cleared up a misfire issue I had at .027

 

[snowborder714]

Do you want it back up at 26psi? If so, why not turn up the boost?

 

[toofast82]

I do trust the gauge, I don't trust the output to Link. AEMs are terrible for this.

Brian, the 2g curve should fix that along with setting a baseline to further tune.

What kind of difference are you getting from the actual AEM gauge to the AEM reading on V3? I can obviously see the difference betwween the A/F est and AEM readings on the log.

The 2g curve should definitely take care of the low end knock, but I'm kind of curious why you are getting knock at 12* up top on that low of boost? Although the knock doesn't seem to be enough to pull timing above 5500rpm.

The 7es plugs should be plenty for up to 23psi or so, after that, I would probably go with the 8s

 

[LandoAWD]

It'll flatline in Link at 11.6 or 11.4 and Link. It seems to lose integrity in the data as it gets richer, but is always about .2 off, even at idle. It'll fluctuate in the same basic range as the gauge, but it is never spot-on.

 

[snowborder714]

Sounds like you need to upgrade to an LC-1

 

[LandoAWD]

Sounds like you need to upgrade to an LC-1

Buy me one for my birthday (June 30). I'm old enough i don't get cool stuff and cash anymore.



I'm paying down a couple of credit cards and trying to keep my bi*** fed. (the Pit, not the wife)

 

[snowborder714]

Uninstall the AEM, sell to someone, and buy an LC-1 from eBay. Would probably be the same price. And the difference in adding a gauge is $40.

Any recent pictures of the Pit?

 

[LandoAWD]

I'll try and update the other thread for the baby girl.

AEM sensor work with the LC1?