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2G Total Teardown and Rewire

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Yes, About 1k/week is spent on the "car hobby" not the talon. As I have other projects as well

Yes if your vehicle (or anything for that matter) is used for business, it's a write-off

RE : Snowborder

The plate we have fabricated will be in the same location as the factory harness, just will be a billet plate, mounted inside the firewall then sealed to eliminate moisture.

We totally dissassembled it, soaked the housing in parts cleaner for about 24 hours, media blasted, then masked it off using a special tape, carving out the areas with a razor that we didnt want coated, then coated it, then re-assemble.

It's fully coated and ready to go.. If your interersted let me know
 
Hmmm, I think you're insane, but in a good way. I'm going to be relocating the fusebox, and actually redoing the whole thing since there are lots of extra bits in there I don't need. I'm curious how you're handling the fusible links, that's my main concern. My relays and fuses are mapped out and fine, but I'm at a loss of what to do with the links.
 
If i want to delete certain wires from my harness, ie: a/c conectors or abs that i have removed, is there any harm in just cuting the wires near the ecu instead of removing them corectly from the electrical terminal with a t-pin? I would like to just seperate the wires for a/c, abs, cruise etc from my main harness and then be able to just cut them with side cutters and not have to remove each wire from the harness at the ecu. Would this be ok? Sorry if this sounds ret@rded?
 
Its 2nd best to proper removal, with 2nd best results - Make sure they at cut facing opposite or slightly different lengths, so that under vibration, they do not touch - Im not sure what the result would be but it would not be good

Someone take this valve cover - Also have Autometer RPM Control Module and a EGT gauge, autometer pro-lite

gotta get this thing finished so it can head off to shep.. blah.
 
yep real easy stuff no contact no problem.although when it comes to ac or cruise dont cut them to short you might wanna put them back on eventually i cut my cruise control wires to short when rewiring and now im going without unfortunately owell only used it on the highway
 
Yeah i think my car is soon to be at the point of no return for drag race spec. I'll be hacking up unneeded stuff and removing anything that isn't needed to drive the car functionaly with very minimal creature comforts like heat maybe.
 
yeah i couldnt live with myself if i took out heat and air but im not looking for a drag car. if your going drag id remove headlighs and tails and anything else i could think of. im going to be keeping the ac and heat and a small stereo with door speakers only. ill snap a few quick pics of it tomorrow so you can see my bare interior. im sitting on a cooler at when i move it :)
 
My car is pretty bare.. currently, we are doing the prothane master kit.. however we are powdercoating all the suspenion parts, a-arms, spindle, lateral arms.. all of it - The chassis is a 1995 and the old bushings are.. finished, even tho no rust, I tell ya those poly bushings if you can pay someone to do the job or do it yourself.. its well, well worth it.. Compliment with some bigger sway bars and KW Varient 3 suspension.. you will really be amazed on what a 2G will feed like on the road.. add in some great mounts and other chassis stifness.. Big smiles..

What alot of people overlook when building a street/drag car is the suspenion.. Big big big gains on properly dialed in suspension - all across the board.

So this section of the project is extremely labor intensive, and will take a while - WE are also adding the ARP wheel studs and open-ended lightweight lugs, our current lugs are pretty heavy and dont look nearly as god as some open spline lugs, and im researching into some tires currently..

I also need to pick up some adjustable cam gears and a triggerdisc and re-tune the thing after all this work.. and the changes to the fuel system - We are aiming for over 500 AWHP on 93 octane.. We'll see what happens
 
Yeah no doubt on the suspension. My last car would squat so bad and i installed 8way ajustable KYB AGX rear shocks and dropped a tenth off of my 60' time. Now with the laser i'm in the same boat as before except now i have more problems. When i cut a low 1.7 60' time my rear suspension squats so hard the rear fenders rub the rear tires. So some AGX's are coming soon for the back of the laser. And this is with hardly any weight back there too!
 
I've seen half a second in the 1320 due to suspension.. Do it once, do it right.
 
I recently redid all the suspension, bushings/bolts/arms/etc. The bushings weren't too bad compared to others I have done. Heat up the bolt sleeve with a torch, push it out, cut the sleeve with a sawzall, pop it out, grease up new bushing, and pop it in. I left the rear knuckles on the car which made that job worse, but it wasn't too bad. I had a shop press some bushing sleeves for me before, 4 sleeves, and it took them 3 days, they charged me $110, abd the sleeves were bent to hell. I had turn a rod down and hammer it through the sleeve to make it round again.

Unfortunately my rear Tein SS dampers needed a rebuild and the pistons are on backorder in Japan with a leadtime of at least 6 weeks.

In any case, the car sounds like its going to be great when done. Keep us posted!
 
It will be a fun project.. Light, reliable, clean, done right, well tuned.. Hope to be in the 10s on pump. We will see

What else can I do...
 
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